| Author |
Topic: Taking the changer cleaning plunge |
Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 6:38 am |
|
My 35 year old Franklin needs the changers cleaned. A (very)small amount of black "crap" oozes out the top between fingers at times. Considering the age of the guitar its probably overdue. I considered sending it to Mike Cass for cleaning and maybe mica replacement as one edge is bad but I think I'll tackle the changers without disassembling them first. Mike's quoted price was reasonable but as he can't get rosewood mica to replace the damaged piece I'd have to change color and I don't really want to do that.
I should do it right and disassemble them but I'm going to give it a shot first and see what happens. I'm not afraid to do that as I completely disassembled and cleaned the changers in my PP Emmons twice. I've read several forum threads on cleaning. I'm going to give the Naptha "bath" a shot. I also have some CLP. If I apply that after the Naptha bath, do I need any other lubricant? |
|
|
 |
Dick Wood
From:
Springtown Texas, USA
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 9:04 am
|
|
You could do like Mooney did and take it to a carwash. It's a thought.
_________________
Cops aren't paid much so I steel at night. |
|
|
|
Dale McPherson
From:
Morristown, Tennessee, USA
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 9:24 am Mike Cass
|
|
| I just had Mike do two guitars for me. HE is very good at his craft. HIghly recommended. |
|
|
|
Jon Light
From:
Saugerties, NY
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 9:28 am
|
|
| That is a question I'd like to see the answer to, too. After a napthta immersion, what is the minimal treatment so that you can start fresh with as little 'stuff' as possible but with adequate lubrication. |
|
|
|
Henry Matthews
From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 9:45 am
|
|
| Dick Wood wrote: |
| You could do like Mooney did and take it to a carwash. It's a thought. |
Hey Dick, don't know if you serious or joking but I did take a MCI D10 to a car wash one time and cleaned it. It was filth and dripping in grease all over. I pressure washed it the blew it out with an air hose and then let it set in sun for a while. Didn't hurt a thing. Lubed it then and played it for two years.
_________________
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
|
|
|
Charlie McDonald
From:
out of the blue
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 10:10 am
|
|
No one knows if Dick is joking or not. Unless he means it.
I'm kind of poised at the same spot as Jack. Good question.
Considering a naptha 'shower.' Should it drip dry? |
|
|
|
Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 10:35 am
|
|
| The story about Ralph Mooney was someone barfed on his steel and the next morning he hosed it off. |
|
|
|
Fred Rushing
From:
Odin, IL, USA
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 7:03 pm Changer
|
|
Jack why would the appearence of black lube from between the changer fingers mean it is problemmatic?
I seen that come from between the fingers on Emmons guitars that are a year old. If you put any lube in the changer wouldn't it works its way out the top like you said it it was doing?
Are the finger sticking? Don't know just asking.
Fred |
|
|
|
Bobby Boggs
From:
Upstate SC.
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 7:07 pm
|
|
| Quote: |
| . I'm going to give the Naptha "bath" a shot. I also have some CLP. |
Never got the result's I wanted with the Naptha bath. But found the CLP to be a wonder drug for pedal steel. I don't just spray it and let it soak in. I rock every changer finger back and forth, (side to side by hand, pushing towards front and rear aprons.) not back and forth the way the pedals move the fingers while lightly spraying - dripping the CLP. My goal. To get as much lube on the changer axial as possible. I do also use the pedals and knee's to work in the CLP.
Worked wonders on my Dad'a 50 year old PP. That had been cased for 11 years. Soft pedal - Knee action. And it's set-up for short pedal and knee travel. Your mileage may vary.
Edited to say. Yes, I know to lube after using Naptha which leaves things bone dry.
b.
Last edited by Bobby Boggs on 18 Sep 2016 7:40 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
|
|
Bobby Boggs
From:
Upstate SC.
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 7:16 pm
|
|
| Quote: |
| Jack why would the appearence of black lube from between the changer fingers mean it is problemmatic? |
An Emmons don't play good till you see a little black lube. 
If you use the CLP? Be warned. You'll be seeing some black lube for some time. I just wipe between the changer fingers with a paper towel when I'm thru playing.
b. |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 8:39 pm
|
|
There are so many ways to clean changers! Now, I like to take them apart, but a few years ago I needed to clean two really junked up Shobud changers. I went to the car parts place, and bought carb cleaner, It came in a one gallon paint bucket, with an included parts tray. I put the changers in the tray, and dunked them. Waited a couple of hours, and the pulled the tray up and down, sloshing the changers real good, After a while I took them out and blew them off with compressed air, Completely clean! Like new, Lubed them up and never looked back. It was an easy process, and worked perfectly!
Edited to add that this process works week for other parts too!
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 18 Sep 2016 8:43 pm
|
|
There are so many ways to clean changers! Now, I like to take them apart, but a few years ago I needed to clean two really junked up Shobud changers. I went to the car parts place, and bought carb cleaner, It came in a one gallon paint bucket, with an included parts tray. I put the changers in the tray, and dunked them. Waited a couple of hours, and the pulled the tray up and down, sloshing the changers real good, After a while I took them out and blew them off with compressed air, Completely clean! Like new, Lubed them up and never looked back. It was an easy process, and worked perfectly!
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
|
|
|
Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 2:24 am
|
|
When I had a PP Emmons I removed and cleaned the changers with carburetor cleaner. Worked good and took all the gunk off of the fingers. Oiled everything and reassembled them. If I were going to remove the changers now, that is how I would clean them.
However, I'm not having much luck finding Naptha. Lowes and the local True Value Hardware no longer carry it. |
|
|
|
Bill Lowe
From:
Connecticut
|
|
|
|
Edward Rhea
From:
Medford Oklahoma, USA
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 3:47 am
|
|
| Jack, you can buy Coleman camp stove fuel(by the gallon)or Ronsonal lighter fluid, at almost any store...it's the same thing. Very flammable!! Make sure your not anywhere near an ignition source and are well ventilated! |
|
|
|
Tom Campbell
From:
Houston, Texas, USA
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 5:37 am
|
|
| And what is CLP??? |
|
|
|
Jack Stoner
From:
Kansas City, MO
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 6:18 am
|
|
I've seen reports that the Coleman fuel is to be avoided as it leaves a residue.
Home Depot still lists it, I'll check there when I get a chance. The closest one to me is 20 miles away. |
|
|
|
Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 6:36 am
|
|
Break free CLP is aimed at the gun market: Cleaner Lubricant Protectant.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
|
|
|
Carl Kilmer
From:
East Central, Illinois
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 6:55 am
|
|
You can buy Ronson lighter fluid at most WalMarts. It's in a
yellow can and it's on one of the racks at a checkout counter.
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal |
|
|
|
Dick Wood
From:
Springtown Texas, USA
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 7:28 am
|
|
I never heard the story about someone puking on his steel,just the part about the carwash.
I suppose you could do like Henry did but just be sure to get it nice and warm so the water evaporates quickly so it has no time to rust.
I've only taken one changer apart and I hope to never do it again because it is a lot of work.
_________________
Cops aren't paid much so I steel at night. |
|
|
|
Henry Matthews
From:
Texarkana, Ark USA
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 11:40 am
|
|
The high pressure at a car wash will clean a changer really good if you don't want to take it apart. I was real careful not to rip the mica off with the pressure. After I used the high pressure washer and then a high pressure blower, I soaked the changer with a thin mix of silicon solution. Can't remember the name of it but works good and evaporates later.I also taped up the little neck switches so they wouldn't get wet. Then I lubed the changer with light oil and also where ever else it needed oiled.
This guitar was actually dripping with grease or oil when I got it. Can't believe people use that much oil. Even the pedal rack was gooey with grease.
Anyway, I played the guitar for couple or 3 years after that and never gave me any problems. The guy I sold it to still plays it today and he hasn't had any problems so I vote for car wash, LOL
_________________
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
|
|
|
Charlie McDonald
From:
out of the blue
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 12:14 pm
|
|
Hard for me to tell about Henry too, sometimes, but whatever floats your boat anchor.
I'm still wondering about the OP's original question.
Let the naptha drip dry and then apply super-fine non-oily solution, like hair clipper lube? |
|
|
|
Len Amaral
From:
Rehoboth,MA 02769
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 12:35 pm
|
|
| Carburetor cleaner is lacquer thinner. Seems to work well when I use it on all degreasing issues. Also us it to start my classic car as it has a lower flash point than starter fluid. |
|
|
|
Bobby Boggs
From:
Upstate SC.
|
Posted 19 Sep 2016 6:03 pm
|
|
Naptha or lacquer thinner works great for cleaning a disassembled changer. As Mr. Billings suggested. Again I've never had much luck using either on an assemble changer. Not worth my time and effort. But everyone's different. If you have access to the above mentioned products and time on your hands, A well ventilated work area. They can't hurt the situation.
Me, if I'm not going to disassemble the changer. I'm sold on using the CLP.
Best of luck with which ever route you choose.
b. |
|
|
|
Jim Bob Sedgwick
From:
Clinton, Missouri USA
|
Posted 20 Sep 2016 4:07 am
|
|
| Jack Stoner wrote: |
When I had a PP Emmons I removed and cleaned the changers with carburetor cleaner. Worked good and took all the gunk off of the fingers. Oiled everything and reassembled them. If I were going to remove the changers now, that is how I would clean them.
However, I'm not having much luck finding Naptha. Lowes and the local True Value Hardware no longer carry it. |
Jack... I purchased some naptha at a Sherwin-Williams paint store about 1 year ago. I think they still carry it. Hope this helps. |
|
|
|
