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Topic: Fix Bent knee lever push rods? (edit: push, not pull) |
Alan Judson
From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 3 Sep 2016 12:46 pm
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Hi,
My knee lever push rods (I think they're called push rods) are bent on my MSA Sidekick, and I'd like to replace them. What sort of metal should I use, and where do you buy something like that?
Thanks y'all,
Alan
Last edited by Alan Judson on 3 Sep 2016 4:56 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Jon Light
From: Saugerties, NY
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Posted 3 Sep 2016 1:29 pm
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That isn't pretty but it might be necessary, considering the angle of the puller. I don't know the size of those rods but before you go looking for good material (welder's rod is a common material for pull rods) you might experiment with some coat hanger. You can bend it back & forth to break it off and with a couple of pliers you can put the "L" angles in it. See if you can do better than what you've got. Might be, you can't. |
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Donny Hinson
From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 3 Sep 2016 2:04 pm
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If it's working properly (the lever angle and action are okay) I'd just leave it alone. |
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Tim Russell
From: Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 3 Sep 2016 4:19 pm
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Are they bent "on purpose?" That is, they are bent to place the knee lever in the proper position. I played an MSA years ago that had a lot of bent rods on it like that, their way of adjusting the knee position. _________________ Sierra Crown D-10 |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 3 Sep 2016 4:25 pm
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I THINK that rod doesn't pull, but push.
I'd bet that it got bent from decades of pushing.
If I'm wrong, a foot of stainless welding rod should be a more than adequate replacement _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Alan Judson
From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 3 Sep 2016 5:19 pm
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You're right, it's a push rod. I can't hit the notes on my levers without pushing really hard and moving them really far. |
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Donny Hinson
From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 6 Sep 2016 5:51 am
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The attachment points aren't in-line, and that makes the possibility of bending the rod even greater. I'd fix that first, and then try to find out why so much effort is required. If you don't, the problem may reoccur, since there doesn't seem to be a rigid stop on the lever itself. |
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Alan Judson
From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 6 Sep 2016 6:24 am
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Hey Donny, thanks for the advice. I'm a little naive here when it comes to pedal anatomy. What do you mean by the attachment points? Thanks |
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Jon Light
From: Saugerties, NY
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Posted 6 Sep 2016 6:32 am
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That is was I was referring to when I said
Quote: |
considering the angle of the puller |
The two green points are potential rubbing issues if the rod were straight.
The "attachment points" are the places that the two rod ends go thru holes in the puller & knee lever.
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Alan Judson
From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 6 Sep 2016 6:33 am
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Thanks John and Donny! Makes sense now. |
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Jim Palenscar
From: Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 6 Sep 2016 7:15 am
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It looks to me that the attachment on the lever side needs to straightened to get back to 90 degrees (unless the block circled is used for a stop) then replace the rod with 1/8" stainless steel welding rod. |
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Ronnie Boettcher
From: Brunswick Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Sep 2016 9:12 am
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Just my 2 cents on this matter. I would take that rod off, and replace it with a piece of 1/2"by1/8" aluminum bar stock. drill 2 holes in it where you want them, and use screws, and a jamb nut, so the screws don't move. Then you have a sturdy, non-flexing connection. Problem solved. Ronnie _________________ Sho-Bud LDG, Martin D28, Ome trilogy 5 string banjo, Ibanez 4-string bass, dobro, fiddle, and a tubal cain. Life Member of AFM local 142 |
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Alan Judson
From: Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 7 Sep 2016 9:56 am
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Ronnie - that makes a lot of sense! Thanks. |
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Ronnie Boettcher
From: Brunswick Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Sep 2016 1:52 pm
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Thanks Alan. What I would do is drill the holes to the size required, to use a tap, and tap out the thread size. That way you only need to use one jam nut per screw. Install it with a little lube on it, and your good to go. Very minimal in cost. _________________ Sho-Bud LDG, Martin D28, Ome trilogy 5 string banjo, Ibanez 4-string bass, dobro, fiddle, and a tubal cain. Life Member of AFM local 142 |
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Jim Reynolds
From: Franklin, Pa 16323
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Posted 9 Sep 2016 10:47 pm
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I would contact Tom Bradshaw. He could help you. _________________ Zum U-12, Carter SDU-12, Zum Encore, Emmons S-10, Emmons D-10, Nashville 400, Two Peavey Nashville 112, Boss Katana 100, Ibanez DD700, Almost every Lesson Jeff Newman sold. Washburn Special Edition Guitar, Can never have enough, even at 80. 1963 Original Hofner Bass bought in Germany 1963, and a 1973 Framus Bass also bought in Germany 1974. |
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Brendan Mitchell
From: Melbourne Australia
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Posted 10 Sep 2016 4:06 pm
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[quote="Ronnie Boettcher"]Just my 2 cents on this matter. I would take that rod off, and replace it with a piece of 1/2"by1/8" aluminum bar stock. drill 2 holes in it where you want them, and use screws, and a jamb nut, so the screws don't move. Then you have a sturdy, non-flexing connection. Problem solved. Ronnie[/quote
^ this |
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