| Visit Our Catalog at SteelGuitarShopper.com |

Post new topic Fix Bent knee lever push rods? (edit: push, not pull)
Reply to topic
Author Topic:  Fix Bent knee lever push rods? (edit: push, not pull)
Alan Judson

 

From:
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 3 Sep 2016 12:46 pm    
Reply with quote

Hi,
My knee lever push rods (I think they're called push rods) are bent on my MSA Sidekick, and I'd like to replace them. What sort of metal should I use, and where do you buy something like that?

Thanks y'all,
Alan


Last edited by Alan Judson on 3 Sep 2016 4:56 pm; edited 1 time in total
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 3 Sep 2016 1:29 pm    
Reply with quote

That isn't pretty but it might be necessary, considering the angle of the puller. I don't know the size of those rods but before you go looking for good material (welder's rod is a common material for pull rods) you might experiment with some coat hanger. You can bend it back & forth to break it off and with a couple of pliers you can put the "L" angles in it. See if you can do better than what you've got. Might be, you can't.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 3 Sep 2016 2:04 pm    
Reply with quote

If it's working properly (the lever angle and action are okay) I'd just leave it alone. Neutral
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Tim Russell


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 3 Sep 2016 4:19 pm    
Reply with quote

Are they bent "on purpose?" That is, they are bent to place the knee lever in the proper position. I played an MSA years ago that had a lot of bent rods on it like that, their way of adjusting the knee position.
_________________
Sierra Crown D-10
View user's profile Send private message
Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 3 Sep 2016 4:25 pm    
Reply with quote

I THINK that rod doesn't pull, but push.
I'd bet that it got bent from decades of pushing.
If I'm wrong, a foot of stainless welding rod should be a more than adequate replacement
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Yahoo Messenger
Alan Judson

 

From:
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 3 Sep 2016 5:19 pm    
Reply with quote

You're right, it's a push rod. I can't hit the notes on my levers without pushing really hard and moving them really far.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2016 5:51 am    
Reply with quote

The attachment points aren't in-line, and that makes the possibility of bending the rod even greater. I'd fix that first, and then try to find out why so much effort is required. If you don't, the problem may reoccur, since there doesn't seem to be a rigid stop on the lever itself. Winking
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Alan Judson

 

From:
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2016 6:24 am    
Reply with quote

Hey Donny, thanks for the advice. I'm a little naive here when it comes to pedal anatomy. What do you mean by the attachment points? Thanks
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Jon Light


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2016 6:32 am    
Reply with quote

That is was I was referring to when I said
Quote:
considering the angle of the puller


The two green points are potential rubbing issues if the rod were straight.

The "attachment points" are the places that the two rod ends go thru holes in the puller & knee lever.


View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Alan Judson

 

From:
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2016 6:33 am    
Reply with quote

Thanks John and Donny! Makes sense now.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Jim Palenscar

 

From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
Post  Posted 6 Sep 2016 7:15 am    
Reply with quote

It looks to me that the attachment on the lever side needs to straightened to get back to 90 degrees (unless the block circled is used for a stop) then replace the rod with 1/8" stainless steel welding rod.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail Visit poster's website
Ronnie Boettcher


From:
Brunswick Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 7 Sep 2016 9:12 am    
Reply with quote

Just my 2 cents on this matter. I would take that rod off, and replace it with a piece of 1/2"by1/8" aluminum bar stock. drill 2 holes in it where you want them, and use screws, and a jamb nut, so the screws don't move. Then you have a sturdy, non-flexing connection. Problem solved. Ronnie
_________________
Sho-Bud LDG, Martin D28, Ome trilogy 5 string banjo, Ibanez 4-string bass, dobro, fiddle, and a tubal cain. Life Member of AFM local 142
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Alan Judson

 

From:
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 7 Sep 2016 9:56 am    
Reply with quote

Ronnie - that makes a lot of sense! Thanks.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Ronnie Boettcher


From:
Brunswick Ohio, USA
Post  Posted 7 Sep 2016 1:52 pm    
Reply with quote

Thanks Alan. What I would do is drill the holes to the size required, to use a tap, and tap out the thread size. That way you only need to use one jam nut per screw. Install it with a little lube on it, and your good to go. Very minimal in cost.
_________________
Sho-Bud LDG, Martin D28, Ome trilogy 5 string banjo, Ibanez 4-string bass, dobro, fiddle, and a tubal cain. Life Member of AFM local 142
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Jim Reynolds


From:
Franklin, Pa 16323
Post  Posted 9 Sep 2016 10:47 pm    
Reply with quote

I would contact Tom Bradshaw. He could help you.
_________________
Zum U-12, Carter SDU-12, Zum Encore, Emmons S-10, Emmons D-10, Nashville 400, Two Peavey Nashville 112, Boss Katana 100, Ibanez DD700, Almost every Lesson Jeff Newman sold. Washburn Special Edition Guitar, Can never have enough, even at 80. 1963 Original Hofner Bass bought in Germany 1963, and a 1973 Framus Bass also bought in Germany 1974.
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail
Brendan Mitchell


From:
Melbourne Australia
Post  Posted 10 Sep 2016 4:06 pm    
Reply with quote

[quote="Ronnie Boettcher"]Just my 2 cents on this matter. I would take that rod off, and replace it with a piece of 1/2"by1/8" aluminum bar stock. drill 2 holes in it where you want them, and use screws, and a jamb nut, so the screws don't move. Then you have a sturdy, non-flexing connection. Problem solved. Ronnie[/quote
^ this
View user's profile Send private message Send e-mail

All times are GMT - 8 Hours
Jump to:  
Please review our Forum Rules and Policies
Our Online Catalog
Strings, CDs, instruction, and steel guitar accessories
www.SteelGuitarShopper.com

The Steel Guitar Forum
148 S. Cloverdale Blvd.
Cloverdale, CA 95425 USA

Click Here to Send a Donation

Email SteelGuitarForum@gmail.com for technical support.


BIAB Styles
Ray Price Shuffles for Band-in-a-Box
by Jim Baron