ShoBud 3rd string lower mod

David L. Donald · From: Koh Samui Island, Thailand

I am about to cut the notch in the body of the Pro II so string 3 will lower to G.

I have never taken the changer apart, so I have a few questions.

I can't see anyway to do this with our going in from the top with the Dremel tool.
Is this correct?

Can the changer string finger crossrod/cam be tapped out without de-roding the whole neck?

Or will just lossening the plastic tuners suffice?

Is there any crossrod re-insatll issues?
I am a bit worried I will have to take the whole copedant apart upside down in mid stream.

I believe the notch needs to be about 1/4" and I think that's towards the pickup.

Is there anything I am missing?

Thanks all. I am sure Ricky D. will be here with a big Ah-ha on this one.

Ricky Davis · From: Bertram, Texas USA

WEellllll..ha Here's how I'd do it.
I'd go ahead and take out what ever rods strings 1 through 4...then unscrew the lower springs and unhook whatever raise springs you might have hooked up on those 1 through 4. Then tap the axle from the outside to the inside of the guitar...and that will let strings 1 through 4 fingers drop out.....cause no matter how you do it ...the fingers need to be out of the way and the only way is OUT..below..ha.
So now the axle is still holding 10 through 5 fingers in.....and do your notchin'....and then blow it out real good...cause I'm sure some wood dust will get in the other fingers.....
Then one finger at a time...put back it from underneath....and tap the axle back in..and re-spring and re-rod and Do NOT have a raise spring on the 3rd string...and your good to go.
Oh while you have that axle almost half way out...>turn it over...by putting a small towl on that end sticking out and grab with plyers and rotate...cause you'll see the indentions that the fingers made on the top of that axle through the years..now you'll have a smooth surface for the fingers to pull dowon on for the next 30 years..ha.
And that axle will have to be tapped because of the pressure still on it from strings 5 through 10 still hooked to springs...so just a phillips head screw driver and small ball-pin hammer should do it...
Ricky

David L. Donald · From: Koh Samui Island, Thailand

Hi Ricky Thanks
So I need to de rod and de spring 1-4, but I can do the notching from the bottom.
That's good news.

At least it ain't ALL the rods and lifting the top plate....

I guess I am still correct, it is the pickup side of the wood that needs a trim.

Rotating the rod makes good sense.
I have some new DM string fingers and I might replace them too.

Think I will have a practice session before I do this.

Earnest Bovine · From: Los Angeles CA USA

Are you sure that this cut is necessary? It is not necassary on my 1976 Sho-Buds. They can lower the 3rd string .0115 almost a whole tone to F# with no trouble.
Is it possible that the string is trying to raise as you try to lower it? Check to be sure that the raise bar does not move as you try to lower.
If the raise bar is moving, then cutting a notch will not help.
If the raise bar moves, remove the raise helper spring, if there is one. On one of my Sho-Buds, I use a stiff raise helper on the 3rd string, and this prevents lowering to G.
If the raise bar still moves after you do that, experiment with lowering the tension on the lower-return spring. With a Sho-Bud, this probably means buying a Big-Bag-O-Springs and fooling around.

Ricky Davis · From: Bertram, Texas USA

Earnest Speakith the Truth.

Mark Herrick · From: Bakersfield, CA

"Big-Bag-O-Springs"

Is that from the "Just Springs" store?

------------------

David L. Donald · From: Koh Samui Island, Thailand

Ernest, I have no spring there. But thanks for the suggestion.

I have been though this discusion with Ricky before.

I even built a lever system to give a longer throw, but to no avail.

Someone mentioned the changer finger sometimes is hitting the cabinet on the lower on the 81's so I suspect this is the issue.

Heck, it won't even lower a 1/2 step.... G# to G
and I WANT that G!

I can't do it now ,I have to play on a track tomorrow, but wednseday I think RoseBud comes apart for a bit.

David L. Donald · From: Koh Samui Island, Thailand

Well it is done, and It gets down farther, but maybe not as far as I would prefer.

There is no wood touching anything that I can see.
Nos springs below.

I also took the time to put the Franklin/Emmons pedal O on 1st pedal and move ABC one to the right.

So far I am VERY happy with this setup.
Much more and faster access to pO in practical usage,
and it does work with pedal A pretty good.
A nice pair of passing chords one with full A and another with a very slight 1/2 pedaling of A.

I also dekludged a bunch of rods and bell cranks that had gotten a bit frictional from several generations of chages.
All is much smoother undernieth now..
Except pedal C is hard with The Crawford/Jernigan C6 P4 changes on it too.
A LONG days work but worth it.

Now I just need Jerry to send the new TT for E9,
and get used to not going to P1 with the F lever... good for a week or so of stress, but not to bad.
And better for the long run.

Thanks all!

Ricky Davis · From: Bertram, Texas USA

Hey Way to Go David; It makes me smile to hear someone has worked on their own steel and has succeeded in what they wanted to do.
Ricky

David L. Donald · From: Koh Samui Island, Thailand

Thanks Ricky.
I was just playing with some people tonight and it was playin' jess fine!

All working well.

It does engender a certain sense of pride to have gotten this much work done in such isolation.

But of course BIG credit to those who have given such great advice and assistance here in the forum.
And you know who you be!

[This message was edited by David L. Donald on 06 June 2004 at 10:16 AM.]

Keith Currie · From: Shellbrook, Saskatchewan, Canada

I would have thought that Earnest was right also , We lower the 3rd and 6st on our old LDG plus raise the first to g# and the second to e on a lever and a couplke other neet changes for that guitar as well
Good luck Keith

David L. Donald · From: Koh Samui Island, Thailand

Keith, I had tried all of Earnet's suggestions.
Including stretching springs and ANYTHING I could think of, it was just a bugger to deal with.

Played with it thise wekend and it was cool.

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