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Author Topic:  Oahu Lap Steel
Earl Steely

 

From:
Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2015 11:19 am    
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Hello,

Found this Oahu lap steel guitar. I know that it's a Diana model but not knowledgeable about lap steels at all in general. I noticed that it has a neck bow in it though. Does this bow seem excessive or are these things supposed to have this much bow in them? Don't know what year this is or anything. Appreciate any info about this brand and neck bow.

Earl



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David Matzenik


From:
Cairns, on the Coral Sea
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2015 1:26 pm    
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The neck bow is excessive. The necks of Dianas and Tonemasters should remain dead flat under normal playing tension. I would guess that guitar has been left open to central heating for long periods, possibly over tuned.
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Earl Steely

 

From:
Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2015 1:55 pm    
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Thanks for the reply David. Just curious if this is something that's fixable or not? There isn't a truss rod on this like a regular guitar. Sad
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Joe Kaufman

 

From:
Lewiston, Idaho
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2015 3:07 pm    
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I know of one repair shop that would fix standard guitar necks, mostly older archtops, with the same problem. He had built special heating element and neck jig. He would remove the strings, brace/block and bow the neck back to where it should be, then heat it for a day or two while it was in the "traction" device. It seemed to work for the guitars. It was about a $200 repair if I remember correctly. I think it hinges on precise temperature control or you could cause more problems than you fix!
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Earl Steely

 

From:
Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2015 3:55 pm    
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Joe Kaufman wrote:
I know of one repair shop that would fix standard guitar necks, mostly older archtops, with the same problem. He had built special heating element and neck jig. He would remove the strings, brace/block and bow the neck back to where it should be, then heat it for a day or two while it was in the "traction" device. It seemed to work for the guitars. It was about a $200 repair if I remember correctly. I think it hinges on precise temperature control or you could cause more problems than you fix!



Thanks for the info Joe.....I'll check around where I live and see if there's anybody that may be able to do it!! Earl
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Dennis Smith

 

From:
Covington, Georgia, USA
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2015 5:30 pm    
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Earl, I have a Diana also. On mind the string are 5/16 at the nut above the fret board and 6/16 at the bridge.
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Earl Steely

 

From:
Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2015 5:44 pm    
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Dennis Smith wrote:
Earl, I have a Diana also. On mind the string are 5/16 at the nut above the fret board and 6/16 at the bridge.


Hey Dennis,

Yeah...that's not too much of a difference. Mine is about the same as yours at the nut, but it's close to 1/2" at the bridge. My Dad had this thing packed away for years. I didn't even know he had it until he passed away. He always played the pedal steel. I like these things though...I'll see if there's anyway to fix it. Not getting my hopes up too much though. Thanks, Earl
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Joe Kaufman

 

From:
Lewiston, Idaho
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2015 7:00 pm    
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If it were mine, I would try using a good 2x4, a few clamps, and some leather "soft jaws" to press it back into shape. Then find a safe hot place to store it for a month and see if that brings her back. You're just trying to bring the wood back into the alignment it grew in not bend it in circles, so you shouldn't need steam. Maybe next to or above your furnace? It might be enough all on its own, and it's worth a try.
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Earl Steely

 

From:
Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 15 Nov 2015 7:41 pm    
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Joe Kaufman wrote:
If it were mine, I would try using a good 2x4, a few clamps, and some leather "soft jaws" to press it back into shape. Then find a safe hot place to store it for a month and see if that brings her back. You're just trying to bring the wood back into the alignment it grew in not bend it in circles, so you shouldn't need steam. Maybe next to or above your furnace? It might be enough all on its own, and it's worth a try.


That's a great idea Joe! I may just give that a try. Thanks!
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Dom Franco


From:
Beaverton, OR, 97007
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2015 5:00 am    
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Use two 100w light bulbs in those aluminum reflector fixtures, and the clamps previously mentioned with a 2X4. Run it for an hour and check the neck temperature. it should be warm but not hot! about 100 degrees F. would be perfect. Leave it on and check every day. IT will straighten out...

Then finally leave it clamped and turn off the lights for 24 hours. String it up. Should be fine. repeat if still bowed. Easy does it patience is a good thing.
Dom
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Tom Pettingill


From:
California, USA (deceased)
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2015 7:02 am    
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A little bowing is not surprising with an unreinforced thin neck design like that. It can be straightened, but without some reinforcement, it will most likely bend back once strung up and under constant tension again.

If it plays and sounds good, I'd probably leave it be and just enjoy it.
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Earl Steely

 

From:
Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2015 7:12 am    
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Tom Pettingill wrote:
A little bowing is not surprising with an unreinforced thin neck design like that. It can be straightened, but without some reinforcement, it will most likely bend back once strung up and under constant tension again.

If it plays and sounds good, I'd probably leave it be and just enjoy it.


I was kinda thinking along the same lines Tom. I would like to have it straightened...but this thing probably isn't anywhere close to being a new instrument! Smile All other suggestions have been great and I may give them a shot, but when I've played it (and I don't know much about to play these things that good), and placing the bar right over the fret marker...it doesn't seem to affect the intonation. My Dad had this and it was packed away for no telling how long. It was probably in this condition when he got it???!!!? It sounds pretty good when hooked up to an amp...especially when a little overdrive is applied to it!! Smile Thanks man!!
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Doug Beaumier


From:
Northampton, MA
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2015 8:01 am    
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I agree with Tom. If it plays good and the intonation is accurate over the frets I would leave it alone.
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Earl Steely

 

From:
Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2015 8:09 am    
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Doug Beaumier wrote:
I agree with Tom. If it plays good and the intonation is accurate over the frets I would leave it alone.


Thanks Doug! I probably will leave it alone for now. I'm a regular 6 string Les Paul, Strat guy....but I find that messing around with this this is great fun and very addicting!! They sound so cool. Earl
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Dom Franco


From:
Beaverton, OR, 97007
Post  Posted 17 Nov 2015 3:36 pm    
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The bow in the neck on a steel guitar is not a big problem, in fact I have made several old standard guitars into steel guitars because their necks were warped.

*** That being said, the bow took many years to form, and a little effort to straighten it now would last another 50 years. (If treated properly, not overstrung or left in a car in Phoenix Arizona during the Summer)
Dom
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David Matzenik


From:
Cairns, on the Coral Sea
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2015 12:15 pm    
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This may sound cruel, but the thing to do is look at what the guitar is worth, and add the cost of repairs. Then look at the price of a Diana with a flat neck. They are not expensive.
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Earl Steely

 

From:
Kansas, USA
Post  Posted 18 Nov 2015 12:42 pm    
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David Matzenik wrote:
This may sound cruel, but the thing to do is look at what the guitar is worth, and add the cost of repairs. Then look at the price of a Diana with a flat neck. They are not expensive.



Yeah...I know they're not that valuable. That's why I'll either play it as is or just try the suggested repairs myself. Thanks!
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