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Topic: Foam safe contact cement |
Tom Campbell
From:
Houston, Texas, USA
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Posted 21 Oct 2015 2:51 pm |
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| I doing a SKB case "build-out" for my steel guitar. I'm using high density foam blocks (insulation material) for the guitar corner supports. Does anyone know of a contact cement brand that is compatible with high density foam? |
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Michael Maddex
From:
Northern New Mexico, USA
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Posted 21 Oct 2015 5:22 pm
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I like Elmer's Craft Bond. I have found it available in both plastic bottle and rattle can; there might be other packaging as well. I have never had any issues with it, but like any other chemical product, it is best to test it out on a couple of scrap pieces first.
HTH. Good luck with your project.
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"For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." -- Arthur C. Clarke |
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Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
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Posted 21 Oct 2015 6:41 pm
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I use 3M 77 spray adhesive on my cases, it works well.
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Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 21 Oct 2015 8:32 pm
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What Darvin said.
The 90 has a stronger bond, but 77 will be fine.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Karl Paulsen
From:
Chicago
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Posted 22 Oct 2015 10:57 am
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Not a contact cement, but I've used a hot glue gun with foam and it works fine. I think that's might be what some case makers use with foam anyway.
I'm not exactly sure about the grades of spray adhesive, but I used Elmers (possibly 77) spray adhesive on some foam rubber (not the same, but still...) and it was a rather temporary bond and come apart fairly easily. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 22 Oct 2015 1:37 pm
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To make an open-cell foam stick to something else, apply liquid contact cement to the non-foam surface and the spray stuff to the foam. Allow to dry til no longer moist, stick together. You'll rip the foam before you'll break the bond.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 22 Oct 2015 5:51 pm
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If you have used 3M #77 spray adhesive you know it doesn't come apart. It works great in areas exposed to high temps, like direct summer sunshine. And once in place, it remains flexible. A very versatile stick-um.
I can get it at Home Depot. I expect Lowes, or any other big box home store, would also have it.
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Best regards,
Mike |
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Jerry Jones
From:
Franklin, Tenn.
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Posted 22 Oct 2015 6:02 pm
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I used 3M Super 77 on an amp head recover and the Tolex peeled right off the cabinet where the tubes heated up. 
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Jerry Jones |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 22 Oct 2015 6:28 pm
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For that application, I'd use either the DAP Weldwood contact cement or maybe an epoxy.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
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Posted 22 Oct 2015 6:33 pm
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I've built and re-covered lots of amp cabinets and Weldwood contact cement has worked great for me as Lane suggested. In fact, I'm re-covering a Nashville 400 cabinet tomorrow using it.
_________________
Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro. |
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Tom Campbell
From:
Houston, Texas, USA
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Posted 22 Oct 2015 6:51 pm
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I am using a blue, high density, insulation type Styrofoam for the support blocks that will go in the corners of the SKB case. The SKB case is a plastic material that has a very smooth surface.
Sierra used this build-out method with their "Wheel-Eze" cases that were made by SKB. I don't know what adhesive Sierra used...their cases are no longer available, but whatever adhesive they used is bullet-proof (I have one of their "Wheel-Eze" cases.
This process is not like recovering an amp where your dealing with wood and vinyl substrates. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 23 Oct 2015 3:13 am
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DAP the hard plastic, spray the foam with 77 or 90.
Allow to dry, press in place.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Tom Campbell
From:
Houston, Texas, USA
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Posted 23 Oct 2015 9:23 am
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Hi Lane
I like your suggestion. DAP will "eat" Styrofoam if applied directly to it. The 3M 77 will act as a barrier for the Styrofoam and provide adhesion.
I'll scruff-up the plastic surface with sandpaper for a stronger DAP bond.
Thanks! |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 23 Oct 2015 9:51 am
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I used to make a lot of Dagorhir weapons, and open-cell foam was the stuff for thrusting tips and flight weapons.
Good call on the sanding the ABS.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Karl Paulsen
From:
Chicago
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Posted 24 Oct 2015 6:26 am
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Minor correction. It wasn't 77 I used and found wanting, but Elmers spray adhesive.
I've had very good luck bonding foam rubber with Weldwood Contact cement, using it to bond EVA and eggshell foam to make trays for transporting toy soliders.
Why not try a Lane's suggestion of bit of the 77 and dap on the insulation foam and see if it works?
I do wonder however about any potential off-gassing chemicals affecting the foam. DAP stinks for a good week or so after application when used on a porous surface. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 24 Oct 2015 7:08 am
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Karl, they do stink for awhile, but I've fought with them the same day I made the weapons (usually either EVA or polyethylene foam).
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Tom Campbell
From:
Houston, Texas, USA
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Posted 24 Oct 2015 10:46 am
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Did a test using Dap on a piece of plastic and 77 spray on a piece of high density insulation foam. From the moment I contacted the two pieces together the bond was so strong I couldn't pry them apart.
This method is a winner...but you better be sure about your placement. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 24 Oct 2015 10:48 am
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Hence the word "contact" on the tin.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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