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Topic: 2nd string 1/2 stop on Emmons |
Skip Mertz
From:
N.C. (deceased)
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Posted 26 Jan 2004 1:28 pm |
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| Would like some feedback on the best way to get a positive stop on the second string. I think some players have it on a separate lever or does adding an extra rod do anything |
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Rainer Hackstaette
From:
Bohmte, Germany
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Posted 26 Jan 2004 1:44 pm
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Skip,
1. Do you have an all-pull or a push-pull Emmons?
2. Do you raise the 2nd string to E in addition to the 2 lowers to D and C#?
The answers to both questions will determine the method for the half-stop.
Rainer
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Remington D-10 8+7, Sierra Crown D-10 gearless 8+8, Sierra Session S-14 gearless 8+5, '77 Emmons D-10 8+4, Sho~Bud Pro-I 3+5, Fender Artist D-10 8+4, Peavey Session 400 LTD, Peavey Vegas 400
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Skip Mertz
From:
N.C. (deceased)
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Posted 26 Jan 2004 1:50 pm
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| The steels are LGIIs' and IIIs I do raise the 2nd also |
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Rainer Hackstaette
From:
Bohmte, Germany
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Posted 26 Jan 2004 2:23 pm
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Okay, so it's an all-pull changer. The basic procedure is to use the 9th string lower D-C# on the same lever as the stop for the first half of the travel on string 2. When the lever is activated, the 2nd string begins to lower. When the tuning nut for the 9th string hits the changer finger, string 2 should be at C#. Further travel takes both the 2nd and the 9th string down to C#. That is probably the way it is set up now.
If the half stop feels too mushy, you can try to alter the leverage points for one or both strings. The objective is to make the lever stiffer. On the bell cranks, moving the pull rod away from the body will make the pull stiffer (and shorter!), on the changer, moving the rod to a hole closer to the axle will make the pull stiffer. The problem is that stiffer also means shorter/faster. The two pulls for strings 2 & 9 wil have to be syncronized, otherwise the half-tone D will not be in tune (there is no dedicated tuner for this change). With the 14-hole bell cranks (and a lot of trial & error) it should be possible, though.
I am not very familiar with the shape of the levers on the LG. On a P/P the indirect levers have a flange with 4 holes where the advantage of the move can be adjusted. If your lever has that, too, move the rod to the upper hole. It will stiffen the lever further
There are two alternatives:
1. Put the 2 2nd string lowers on different levers. The C# could go on your 4+8 E-D# lever.
2. A modified lever stop. A friend made one for me that I have on my Sho~Bud: a spring-loaded screw is used as the stop. The strength of the spring determines the stiffness of the feel for the half-tone. You have to overcome the tension of the spring to achive the full lower.
If you want, I'll take a photo of the stop amd mail it to you. It sounds much more complicated than it is. 
Hope to have helped (a little),
Rainer
edited for my lousy spelling 
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Remington D-10 8+7, Sierra Crown D-10 gearless 8+8, Sierra Session S-14 gearless 8+5, '77 Emmons D-10 8+4, Sho~Bud Pro-I 3+5, Fender Artist D-10 8+4, Peavey Session 400 LTD, Peavey Vegas 400
[This message was edited by Rainer Hackstaette on 26 January 2004 at 02:24 PM.] [This message was edited by Rainer Hackstaette on 26 January 2004 at 02:26 PM.] |
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Skip Mertz
From:
N.C. (deceased)
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Posted 26 Jan 2004 2:59 pm
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| I think I may have taken some tension off that adjusting spring inadvertently, so I'm going in my music room and compare the set up on some of the Emmons I haven't meesed with yet. thanks for your help |
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Ricky Davis
From:
Bertram, Texas USA
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Posted 26 Jan 2004 4:09 pm
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Just have the 2nd string and 9th string in the same holes in the finger and on the puller(bell crank)....so they will be pulling the same distance...>than of course you will have to back out the nylon tuner for the 9th string so it will only go down a half tone, on the second half of the travel on the 2nd string.. > Tighten up the lower spring almost all the way for the 9th string...so when the nylon tuner hits for the 9th string and the D note of the 2nd string...that 9th string finger will be pretty secure before you lower it the other half step...and that will give you a great feel. Also if it's a double 10...and that RKR also works the C6th side...you should have a change on that lever>probably A to Bb raise....>so you can time that nylon tuner also to hit the same time the 9th string nylon tuner hits...and even more of a possitive stop.
Depending on what kinda travel you have on that RKR; would depend if the 9th string will be in the same hole positions as the 2nd string....but should be pretty dang close.
Email me if you need further coaching.
Ricky[This message was edited by Ricky Davis on 26 January 2004 at 04:11 PM.] |
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C Dixon
From:
Duluth, GA USA
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Posted 26 Jan 2004 4:13 pm
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Skip,
You can try what several Grand Ole Opry players have done:
1. As stated above, use the 9th string as a half-stop "feel" for the point when the 2nd string reaches the D note.
2. Then use the "split" allen screw to tune the C# on the 9th string, when the knee lever is fully engaged.
To increase OR decrease the amount of "feel" for the half-stop, tighten OR loosen the return spring (respectively), on the 9th string.
It works like a charm.
May Jesus bless you in your quests,
carl |
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Skip Mertz
From:
N.C. (deceased)
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Posted 26 Jan 2004 6:43 pm
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| Thanks guys, I think i got it adjusted pretty good. I tried that split tuner screw the other day and that worked well for the 9th string stop. I'm lowering my 3rd on C6thand I think if I play with the return springs I'll get it dailed in right |
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Dave Robbins
From:
Cottontown, Tnn. USA (deceased)
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Posted 26 Jan 2004 8:39 pm
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Carl,
Dave |
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