Marlen Mechanics Help

Raphael McGregor · Posted 30 Jul 2015 9:11 pm

Hi All,

I have a 1974 Marlen D-10 that I recently bought. I've been putting a lot of effort into understanding it and making it work, but I need some help. Here's my question (well, one of them, at least):

I figured out how the raises work (I think): the pedal pulls the finger to the body of the guitar for the raise, and when you release the pedal, the string tension pulls the finger back down to pitch. The nut at the end of the guitar allows it to return to a stable pitch.

For the lowers, the hex nuts push into the finger, causing it to be under tension even at the string's original pitch. When the knee levers are pressed, the tension is released and the finger jumps back to the nut, which determines the resting pitch.

So, my question is basically...what can I do when I've adjusted all the things I mention above and it still isn't functioning correctly? Is there some other variable I'm missing? What am I doing wrong if everything is working right and strings are still fluctuating in pitch?

And lastly, I've set up only the raises so far and the lower on the D string, which doesn't have any raises on it...but how do I set up the strings which have raises and lowers? Is it just going to take a long time to balance everything properly or am I missing something?

Thank you all so much!

--Raphael

Ian Worley · From: Sacramento, CA

Could be a lot of different things going on, lubrication, lower return spring tension, insufficient slack. A little more info and a couple of pictures would help. From your description it sounds like an "all-pull" changer. Older Marlens were "pull-release", which is a completely different system. If you post a picture or three of the underside of the changer along with a more specific description of what you've adjusted and what specifically "isn't functioning correctly" I'm sure you'll get a lot of helpful feedback here.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

74 will be a pull-release.
Raphael, when you say it's "not functioning correctly", what do you mean?
If you both raise and lower a string, the raise MUST have enough slack to allow the finger to go all the way to the lowered note. Failure to allow slack is the biggest problem novice mechanics have on the pull-release mechanism.

If that's NOT your problem, please give us a detailed description of the misbehavior.

All properly functioning guitars are alike, but the a malfunctioning ones have a unique misery.
Fyodor Dostoyevski, changer mechanic
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Dick Sexton · From: Greenville, Ohio

Go here: https://www.steelguitar.com/#

At the top of the page look under: Learn about PSG

Put the mouse on: "What's this part?"

Then: Changer "All Pull"

From your question and explanation, it seems, that is what you have. The changers differ guitar to guitar, but most "All Pull" are alike in the way they operate.

Note: If you go through everything on this site, your knowledge of PSG will increase exponentially.

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Dick, I'm pretty sure that a 1974 Marlen will be pull-release.
But I think the pull-release is there too.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
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Raphael McGregor · Posted 31 Jul 2015 6:00 am

Thanks, this is helpful. Yeah, my understanding is that it's a pull release.

Lane, by "not functioning correctly" I mean that the raises I have gotten to work don't always return the string to the same pitch. I'm not sure if this means the strings are bad (they are quite new, so I doubt it), or maybe not wound around the tuning pegs correctly, or is there is something I can do to adjust the return spring tension.

And, second, as you say, I probably have not worked hard enough to calibrate the strings that have raises and lowers. I will give it some more work and give that site a look.

Thanks!

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

If you look at the various guides for working on the Emmons push-pull, they will work as instructions for pull-release, if you change the lowering finger to lowering rod.
First, make sure that the string is tight on the tuner.
Next, loosen the collars on the rods that raise and lower (since the return spring is pretty stout, you could hold the lever activated, but certainly loosen the raise collar.
Hold the finger raised, tune it to the raised more. Ignore the open note now, we're making sure there's room underneath.
Release the finger, tune the lower note with the screw in the endplate.
Now, while it's lowered, and the raise is not activated, tighten the collar on the raise rod, giving it a bit of slack for later.
Then adjust the pedal stop screw so that the pedal hits the stop just as the finger hits the cabinet.
Now verify that the string goes (if the fourth string) from D# to F#.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Raphael McGregor · Posted 31 Jul 2015 7:17 am

That is exactly what I need, thank you! Will let you know how it turns out. Currently my two year old daughter is under there working on it. Hmm, could that be the problem?

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

I'll try to do a video when I reassemble the Permanent on my bench. The Perm is the Sho-Bud pull-release guitar.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

Scott Duckworth · From: Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies

Here is a little help, based on the Marlen D-10 I had, and some info Lane sent me. mine was built in 1979.

Copedent

Tuning: (per string)
Top note: keyhead
Bottom note: screw
middle note 1: nut
middle note 2 (or more): under guitar.

In other words, if a string has no raises or lowers, tune it at the keyhead.

If a string has a raise, activate what raises it, and tune at the keyhead, then use the screw on the changer for the relaxed note (no ped or knee).

If the string has a lower, tune the relaxed string with the keyhead, then the activated note with the tuning nuts.

If it happens to have two lower on one string, the other tuning point will be a stop screw under the guitar at the lever.
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I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus!

Lane Gray · From: Topeka, KS

Scott, there's a lot of ifs in the way you order it.
Highest note: keyhead
Lowest note: endplate (but not in the window)
Intermediate notes: either in the window or under the guitar.
This ALWAYS works.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects

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