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Topic: Guyatone's Getting Legs. |
Michael James
From:
La Crosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 29 Jun 2015 1:33 pm |
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Hey Folks,
I ordered some legs and sockets from Sill Music Supply for my old Guyatone. It has pre-drilled holes on the bottom.
Any mounting suggestions or things I need watch out for?
Thanks mj |
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Peter den Hartogh
From:
Cape Town, South Africa
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Posted 30 Jun 2015 1:38 am
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| These pre-drilled holes are to small for the 3 inch sockets, but you could mount them on the surface of the guitar without drilling 3 inch holes. |
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Michael James
From:
La Crosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 30 Jun 2015 8:12 am
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I'm going to surface mount them.
I need some help figuring out the exact direction I need to mount the sockets. An angle best for sitting and standing.
I hope the legs go high enough for standing? I'm 6'2" tall. If not then I'll only worry about sitting position. |
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Ron Simpson
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 30 Jun 2015 8:38 am
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| End legs toward player, center leg toward audience. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 30 Jun 2015 8:47 am
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Something like this:
I have the flanges routed into the body.
These came from Gary Sill.
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Peter den Hartogh
From:
Cape Town, South Africa
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Posted 30 Jun 2015 10:56 am
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Michael, notice on Erv's last picture that the 2 outside flanges screws are mounted in a vertical cross shape (+) and the center screws are mounted like an X shape.
This allows you to point the legs in the right direction.
As an example, on Erv's picture showing the guitar bottom, the left leg will point to about 11 o'clock, the right one to about 1 o'clock (both towards the player) and the center will point to 6 o'clock, away from the player.
Wait for the sockets to arrive and you'll see that it's easy. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 30 Jun 2015 11:00 am
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Peter,
You're right on!
Thanks!
Erv |
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Posted 1 Jul 2015 8:02 am
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A couple things in no particular order
As Peter points out, you can use the orientation of the mounting holes as a good general guide for positioning.
If the existing holes in the body are at least 1 1/4", then you can surface mount them with only the thickness of the flange above the surface.
I'd also suggest using a good quality and proper sized screw. A #10 x 1" stainless steel screw would be a good choice. I like using stainless because it is generally tougher than your common zinc plated import mystery metal. And if I want, stainless can be polished to a very high chrome like shine for finish and trim uses. All that for not much more than the cheap screws.
Also on screws, definitely drill pilot holes first. Unless its some very hard wood, an 1/8" bit would be a good size for a #10 screw.
Its also good practice in woodworking to always lube the screw before sinking it in. I use beeswax, but any wax or even a bar of soap will help. Just rub a little on the threads.
.
_________________
Some misc pics of my hand crafted steels
Follow me on Facebook here |
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Gary Meixner
From:
New York, USA
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Posted 1 Jul 2015 8:36 am
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All good points, I would add the following: align the sockets as described and then drill just one pilot hole for each socket and attach with the appropriate screw. Screw in the legs and give the set-up a try. If everything seems right go ahead and drill the other pilot holes etc. If adjustments are necessary follow the same procedure. You may find that the leg on the right needs to be in a slightly different position to be comfortable to sit (or stand) at.
If you want to recess the entire flange, first be sure there is enough thickness in the body and that you won't run into anything important. You may have to drill the existing holes a little deeper to accommodate. Then make a router pattern using a 3" hole saw to cut a hole in piece of plywood. Position the pattern over the existing holes and either clamp in place or use double sided tape to hold the pattern. Then use a flush cutting router bit with a top bearing to make the recess. Real simple. But truthfully there is no problem with surface mounting the flanges if you don't want to bother.
Gary |
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Gary Meixner
From:
New York, USA
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Posted 1 Jul 2015 8:46 am
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I just took another look at the picture of your guitar - you probably don't have enough material to recess the flange. Also be care drilling your pilot holes on the right hand side near the pickups. You may find you need make adjustments so that you don't run into a pickup or control cavity, or you may have to leave a screw out which is okay. Good luck.
Gary |
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Michael James
From:
La Crosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 14 Jul 2015 10:54 am
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Wow!, Thanks everyone for the great responses! The Guyatone is in the shop getting new pickups and as soon as I get it back I will mount the legs.
I'm not feeling so scared to do this now.
Thanks again. |
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James Mayer
From:
back in Portland Oregon, USA (via Arkansas and London, UK)
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Posted 14 Jul 2015 2:31 pm
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| What's interesting about those Guyatones (I own two and had one stolen years ago) is that invariably have the remains of a sticker that covered each hole, just as I see in your photo. Apparently, they never had legs or brackets but were drilled for them in the factory. You never see that model pop up with the brackets or legs intact because they never had them. My theory anyway. |
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Michael James
From:
La Crosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 14 Jul 2015 2:40 pm
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| The sticker on mine had all been poked out, so I removed them the rest of the way. Had it not been for the pre-drilled holes I never would have considered putting legs on it. |
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Keith Barron
From:
British Columbia, Canada
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Posted 14 Jul 2015 9:08 pm
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| Being fairly new to NPS guitars, this is my first glance at a Guyatone. At first sight I thought it was a Stringmaster. Did Fender have anything to with the Guyatone? Or just give them inspiration? What year is this Guyatone? Thanks. |
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Michael James
From:
La Crosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 14 Jul 2015 9:11 pm
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To be honest. I'm clueless about Guyatone and this instrument. The good news is, this forum has lots of knowledgable players that I'm sure will share their knowledge.  |
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Brad Bechtel
From:
San Francisco, CA
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