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Topic: remove cross shaft on MSA |
Ryan Dyck
From:
Alberta, Canada
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 10:06 am |
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I'm needing to replace knee lever clamp for LKL on this guitar. I'm a newbie to this stuff. What is best way to remove cross shafts? thx
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Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 10:57 am
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Ryan, remove the 6 screws on the rear apron face plate. Once everything on the shaft is loosened, the shaft should slide right out.
_________________
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/ |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 10:58 am
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With guitar on legs, sit behind it as if to play it.
See that the rear apron is thicker to the left?
See the 6 screws in the thick bit? Pull those screws. If you have loosened all the screws on pulls and cranks, you can pull the rods right out.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 11:00 am
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Loosen everything on that particular cross shaft, then remove the aluminum plate on the back apron of the guitar (remove the screws). You can, now, pull the cross shaft out far enough (or all the way) to rearrange, or replace the items you need to change. Pretty simple, really.
This is a good time to do any cleaning and lubrication. BTW, don't lube the cross shaft except for the ends. The bellcranks will slip in there's lube on the shaft.
Hope this helps, Ryan.
Wow, you guys are fast. 2 posts while I was typing my short post! 
_________________
Best regards,
Mike
Last edited by Mike Wheeler on 19 Mar 2015 11:03 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Mike Perlowin
From:
Los Angeles CA
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Ryan Dyck
From:
Alberta, Canada
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 11:01 am
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Thanks fellas.
Michael i believe that all i need is the lever clamp. could you confirm? also do oyu have MSA decals in stock? thanks very much |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 11:04 am
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Mike, I'd say don't even oil the ends. Oil can swell the delrin
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 11:08 am
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Yes, It looks as though that clamp is toast! I have them on the website http://psgparts.com/Clamp-Lever-Knee-Shaft-200-100-003.htm.
I do have brand new foil pedal bar logos but they are the newer style with block letters instead of the older script letters. I need to get them entered on the website.
_________________
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/ |
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Mike Wheeler
From:
Delaware, Ohio, USA
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 11:15 am
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| Lane Gray wrote: |
| Mike, I'd say don't even oil the ends. Oil can swell the delrin |
Yep, you're right, Lane. That's why I use TriFlow...it doesn't swell any of the plastics used for bearing surfaces.
_________________
Best regards,
Mike |
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Ryan Dyck
From:
Alberta, Canada
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 11:16 am
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great.
i'm gonna order the knee lever clamp and would like a pedal bar decal.. can you tell me the amount for the decal? will it allow me to pay the additional amound?
last question - and unfortunately i'm not at home where the steel is - wanting to change a RKR change (it currently lowers 2 and 6 - 1/2 & whole step i believe - to make it lower 2 and 9). will i need any parts to do this? |
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Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 11:25 am
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Can't order anything until I have it in the system. Working on it now.
Lane, I'll let you field the question about what may be needed.
_________________
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/ |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 11:25 am
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Not unless you want to add a half stop.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Ryan Dyck
From:
Alberta, Canada
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 11:40 am
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| thanks again fellas. Michael: i'll wait to the decal is available to order. would like to do so ASAP. thx |
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Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 1:58 pm
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Because the 2nd string works so well at all 3 notes (D#, D and C#), I like a half-stop on it. The 9th string lower can be made to act like it, the individual half-stop offers a better feel.
Michael has the kit if you want it.
If you don't, your RKR needs no parts.
1) loosen, but don't remove, the set screw in the brass barrel in the 6th string bellcrank.
2) pull the rod out the endplate
3) loosen the set screw in the bellcrank, slide it over to the 9th string
4) you may want to move the barrel closer to the axle
5) slide the rod through the hole in the endplate, and on thru the same hole in the changer. (HINT: It is REAL easy to get it wrong as you do)
6) insert rod through the barrel and tighten the screw.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Tom Gorr
From:
Three Hills, Alberta
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Posted 19 Mar 2015 2:08 pm
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Well done Michael... the much loved foil decal... once extinct... now lives again! |
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Ryan Dyck
From:
Alberta, Canada
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Posted 7 Jun 2015 6:58 pm
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| Lane Gray wrote: |
Because the 2nd string works so well at all 3 notes (D#, D and C#), I like a half-stop on it. The 9th string lower can be made to act like it, the individual half-stop offers a better feel.
Michael has the kit if you want it.
If you don't, your RKR needs no parts.
1) loosen, but don't remove, the set screw in the brass barrel in the 6th string bellcrank.
2) pull the rod out the endplate
3) loosen the set screw in the bellcrank, slide it over to the 9th string
4) you may want to move the barrel closer to the axle
5) slide the rod through the hole in the endplate, and on thru the same hole in the changer. (HINT: It is REAL easy to get it wrong as you do)
6) insert rod through the barrel and tighten the screw. |
Ah i did this but now the 9th string spring does not return |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 7 Jun 2015 7:17 pm
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What do you mean by "the spring does not return"?
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Ryan Dyck
From:
Alberta, Canada
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Posted 8 Jun 2015 9:20 pm
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| It seems to stick.. requiring me to push the knee lever back towards its resting position and then it pops back |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 9 Jun 2015 2:06 am
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Something is binding somewhere. Check that all the pulls are straight where they pass through bellcranks. If you're using a real half-stop, make sure that ALL pieces are in a straight line.
With a bit of time and careful attention, it should become clear where the problem lies.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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