| Author |
Topic: Restring old Ernie Ball Volume pedal |
David Spangler
From:
Kerrville, TX USA
|
Posted 6 Apr 2015 10:24 am |
|
I have an old Ernie Ball volume pedal that does not have any model # printed on it. So far, no response from Ernie Ball. Anyone know the model of this pedal? I'm trying to find out which string/cord kit to buy to refurb it.
Also, interested to know what the knob is for.
I'm converting it to an expression pedal with a 10K linear pot.
 |
|
|
 |
Chris Boyd
From:
Leonia,N.J./Charlestown,R.I.
|
Posted 6 Apr 2015 1:51 pm
|
|
I used the same EB pedal for most of the 80's and restrung them with a braided string I bought at Ace Hardware..always worked perfectly. I still have one and just looked...couldn't find a model #.....
_________________
https://www.reverbnation.com/bigredandtheresonators
Last edited by Chris Boyd on 7 Apr 2015 3:28 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
|
|
David Spangler
From:
Kerrville, TX USA
|
Posted 6 Apr 2015 1:51 pm Restring old Ernie Ball Volume pedal
|
|
| Got a reply from Ernie Ball, saying to buy the 6157 kit. And the control on the side is to adjust the taper of the pedal's pot. |
|
|
|
Jim Priebe
From:
Queensland, Australia - R.I.P.
|
Posted 6 Apr 2015 3:15 pm
|
|
David
I used one of these for 25+ years but took the tone control off as I did not need it. Always used Allen Bradley Pots (still have a couple). I now use a Hilton VP.
Re the string: I cut a hole in the underside to make string replacement bearable (I have large hands and just couldn't get in there to set the correct spring pressure) - it's still plenty heavy and sits well. I keep it for a spare.
I always used waxed cotton string (multiple strands) for replacements that i made up myself.
_________________
Priebs GFI ('09)Short-Uni10. GFI ('96)Short-Uni SD11. ('86)JEM U12
www.steelguitardownunder.com |
|
|
|
Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
|
Posted 6 Apr 2015 6:25 pm
|
|
| I had one of those, years ago. The knob on the side wasn't a tone control. It changed the taper of the volume pot. |
|
|
|
Jim Priebe
From:
Queensland, Australia - R.I.P.
|
Posted 6 Apr 2015 8:13 pm
|
|
Lee
Mine wasn't new and had been modded to a tone control before I got it.
I added a jack for a tuner (see butchered alloy so it would fit). Also some yummy Allen Bradleys (500 and 250). I used to Inox them once a month and compressed air clean them. They would last for years.
_________________
Priebs GFI ('09)Short-Uni10. GFI ('96)Short-Uni SD11. ('86)JEM U12
www.steelguitardownunder.com |
|
|
|
Lee Baucum
From:
McAllen, Texas (Extreme South) The Final Frontier
|
Posted 7 Apr 2015 9:06 am
|
|
| Jim - Those pedals were so difficult to work on. I like the way you cut the hole in the bottom. |
|
|
|
Larry Bressington
From:
Nebraska
|
Posted 7 Apr 2015 10:30 am
|
|
Use a Dunlop 470k pot whilst you are in there, these are fun to restring and assemble...Install the axle shaft last. 
_________________
A.K.A Chappy. |
|
|
|
Scott Swartz
From:
St. Louis, MO
|
Posted 7 Apr 2015 1:35 pm
|
|
For replacing the string or pot, I have found that the easiest way to do this is to take out the two screws on the bottom that connect the pot mounting bracket. Then the pot and bracket can be moved back to remove the spring tension and the string can be unwound from the brass pulley that is on the pot shaft. Getting it put back together with a new string is a little tough, but not impossible. Mount the new pot on the bracket, install the pulley in the proper orientation and tighten it on the pot shaft. Wrap the string around the pulley, and then hook the string on the spring by moving the entire bracket/pulley/ string. Then align the bracket with the holes and insert the screws, which will tension the spring. It is likely that the relationship of the pedal travel to the pot position will be a little off at this point. This can be adjusted by pulling the spring to release the tension while the pulley is rotated with the string wrapped around the pulley slack. Once the position is close, solder the wires on the pot. Plug a guitar cord into each jack and connect the leads of an ohmmeter to the tip of each cord. Now you can check the resistance at the endpoints of pedal travel. When the pedal is all the way down, the resistance should be 10 ohms or less. Adjust the pot position so this occurs as described above by turning the pot with the string slacked on the pulley.
_________________
Scott Swartz
Steeltronics - Steel Guitar Pickups
www.steeltronics.com |
|
|
|
Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
|
Posted 7 Apr 2015 2:41 pm
|
|
I find the EB pedals fairly easy to work on.. Don't really understand why so many guys have problems.. watch this video a few times.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eQ2QyzReVak
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
|
|
|
Jim Priebe
From:
Queensland, Australia - R.I.P.
|
Posted 7 Apr 2015 3:27 pm
|
|
Bob
Great vid but
back in the '80's it wasn't around &:
There was no table and seat at the gigs where the string went bad
The "hook" tool was not in my kit
He continually accesses things via the side cut aways - hello!
Ernie Ball precut strings - handy but when did they come out?
The reality is the old ones were difficult to re-string as they never broke at a convenient time. I'm not knocking them as I used one for LONG time and to be honest they were pretty reliable.
I know the string should be replaced after xx hours of use as a precaution but us musos never do those sensible things as we have 'important' stuff to do! 
Sorry David - your post was not really about this but if you use one it will be.
_________________
Priebs GFI ('09)Short-Uni10. GFI ('96)Short-Uni SD11. ('86)JEM U12
www.steelguitardownunder.com |
|
|
|
Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
|
Posted 8 Apr 2015 6:38 am
|
|
| Jim Priebe wrote: |
Bob
Great vid but
back in the '80's it wasn't around &:
There was no table and seat at the gigs where the string went bad
The "hook" tool was not in my kit
He continually accesses things via the side cut aways - hello!
Ernie Ball precut strings - handy but when did they come out?
The reality is the old ones were difficult to re-string as they never broke at a convenient time. I'm not knocking them as I used one for LONG time and to be honest they were pretty reliable.
I know the string should be replaced after xx hours of use as a precaution but us musos never do those sensible things as we have 'important' stuff to do!
Sorry David - your post was not really about this but if you use one it will be. |
Jim.. I meant no disrespect, I hope you understand that... The video helped me lot last time I did an EB, but before they had such things then I fumbled my way around them and got good results.. Yes you need to "make" a few tools to grab the string, I realize that.. I am used to doing that sort of work, as I was an auto tech for decades, and got used to making small tools to fit into small odd shaped spaces,, The video is not 100%, but it is a considerable improvement over what info we had in the 80's, I agree!...bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
|
|
|
