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Topic: Tuning Barrel Set Screw Wrench? |
Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 6 Apr 2015 8:25 pm |
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OK, this ought to be an easy one. Unless, like me you don't know. 
I mislaid the Allen wrench for the set screws in my Sho-Bud's brass tuning barrels. What size wrench do I need?
If this works like so many other things, as soon as I come home with a new wrench I'm going to trip over that little thing. "Oh, yeah. I knew that. I just wanted an extra one."  |
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Dan Beller-McKenna
From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 4:24 am
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Dan,
that would be a 1/16. I went to the hardware store at one point and bought about five of these and five of the one you tune with (5/32?). Also, (and I'm not like this in most parts of my life) I typed up little sheets for each of my three steels with a list of which hex wrenches each one takes, and glued the sheets on the inside of the case. Then, in my best impersonation of a type A personality, I color-coded the wrenches with colored tape, so when I reach into my picks-n-things bag I have some clue of what wrench I'm grabbing.
Then, just to prove that I am NOT a type A personality, wouldn't you know it: I had a gig with my Fessy last month and showed up without the wrench that tunes the split screws on the bridge. Dohh!!!
Same old me. |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 8:30 am
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I prefer the ball-end hex wrench with either a T handle or, better yet, a screwdriver type handle. I think you can get them at Sears
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
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Ian Rae
From:
Redditch, England
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 9:04 am
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Dan, don't be self-conscious about being organised! I know what size fits what and I buy 1/16" wrenches in bulk, and I'm not particularly weird - at least I don't think so... 
_________________
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 9:17 am
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I like the T or screwdriver handles because they are longer, colorful, and much harder to lose track of. The ball end lets you approach the barrel's set screw from an angle.
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
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Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 10:43 am
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Hey Dan,
I appreciate your reply.
I know EXACTLY what you mean. "Ain't it always the way."
Funny how these nuisance experiences make such good tales years later. |
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Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 11:31 am
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| John Billings wrote: |
| I like the T or screwdriver handles because they are longer, colorful, and much harder to lose track of. The ball end lets you approach the barrel's set screw from an angle. |
John, that's what I need.
Now where did I put that cheap "free gift" with the flashlight in the handle?
I'm replacing all remaining aluminum rods with stainless steel. The screw requires more torque to bite into stainless, else they are prone to slipping, inevitably during a gig, in the dark, when the new wrench has run off with the sock that came out of the dryer with no mate. |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 11:37 am
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You might want to change to a different type of set screw;
"Cone Socket Set Screw
Cone Socket Set Screws have a sharp pointed tip on one end. It is used for the permanent setting of parts. They offer the highest holding capability, due to the deep penetration of the cone point."
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 3:47 pm
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| John Billings wrote: |
You might want to change to a different type of set screw;
"Cone Socket Set Screw
Cone Socket Set Screws have a sharp pointed tip on one end. It is used for the permanent setting of parts. They offer the highest holding capability, due to the deep penetration of the cone point." |
Except that cone sockets damage the pullrods, making it very difficult to remove the barrel. 
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 3:55 pm
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"making it very difficult to remove the barrel"
True James. What would you suggest? Cup point? I was just thinking that a cone point might not have to be tightened down so much to hold it's position??? And seeing that the barrel is adjustable, one might not have to move the female end with the set screw??? I defer to you!
JB
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
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Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 5:00 pm
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Wow, James.... who knew there were so many choices.
Cone, cup, flat, even dog and half-dog.
How about knurled-cup?
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 6:08 pm
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If at all possible stay away from set screw surfaces that damage and cause excessive burring on the pull rod. It makes it very difficult to remove barrels sometimes requiring sanding to remove the burr. This why I detest aluminum pull rods, I much prefer stainless steel. If at all possible use the cup type as it seems to be the lesser of all evils and does have an edge to give some bite. Also seems to be the best price when bought in bulk. Do not over tighten and you should be fine. The screwdriver style handles are available through McMaster Carr.
There are several set screw surfaces available, which ever you pick, the key is to not over tighten and cause damage to the pull rod yet grip enough to stabilize the barrel
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 6:32 pm
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Agree completely James.
_________________
Dr. Z Surgical Steel amp, amazing!
"74 Bud S-10 3&6
'73 Bud S-10 3&5(under construction)
'63 Fingertip S-10, at James awaiting 6 knees
'57 Strat, LP Blue
'91 Tele with 60's Maple neck
Dozen more guitars!
Dozens of amps, but SF Quad reverb, Rick Johnson cabs. JBL 15, '64 Vibroverb for at home.
'52 and '56 Pro Amps |
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Dan Robinson
From:
Colorado, USA
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Posted 7 Apr 2015 7:21 pm
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James, thanks for the pointing me to McMaster-Carr. They have the round-tip wrench John suggested.
 
Would flat/non-marring screws be a good choice?
These conforming (nylon or brass) tip screws are interesting, but might not offer enough clearance.
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