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Topic: The "right" tone bar |
William Cannon III
From:
Florida, USA
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Posted 20 Feb 2015 7:05 am |
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| I recently purchased a Fender T-8 Custom after getting started on 6-string lap steel. I've been back and forth between the Dunlop 920 and 918 bullet bars, the 920 seems to be a little big for me to hold comfortably and I have a few intonation issues almost like I'm bending the string,the 918 tends to "catch" occasionally or the notes "go dead" under it. I assume there's no such thing as one perfect bar for all applications, and perhaps my issues are due to the learning curve of jumping from 6 to 8 strings. I'm also fairly new to the world of steel guitar so there may be simple technique issues holding me back as well. If any one has any suggestions or advice I welcome it. Thanks! |
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Jerome Hawkes
From:
Fayetteville, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 20 Feb 2015 7:23 am
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the 920 is a pedal steel bar - too much imo
the 918 should be sufficient. i use the same bar for 6 and 8
the weight of the bar is all you (should) need to produce a clean tone if you are muting behind the bar correctly
_________________
'65 Sho-Bud D-10 Permanent • '54 Fender Dual-8 • Clinesmith T-8 • '38 Ric Bakelite • '92 Emmons D-10 Legrande II |
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William Cannon III
From:
Florida, USA
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Posted 20 Feb 2015 7:33 am
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| Thanks Jerome, that brings up another question in regards to proper left hand technique. Is the majority of the bar between your index and middle fingers, or index and thumb with the index finger arched over? Or is that all a matter of personal preference? |
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Dom Franco
From:
Beaverton, OR, 97007
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Posted 20 Feb 2015 8:07 am
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I like to switch bars once in a while (from heavy to light - Paloma stone bars are fun)...to give my left hand a break.
It is also my opinion that many non-pedal steel players use "too light" gauge strings.
That will cause un-wanted string bending with a heavy bar.
I like to string all my non-pedal instruments with the heaviest possible gauge for that particular pitch. (They put out a stronger signal, sustain longer, and feel solid not "squishy" under the bar.
Dom
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https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCYG9cvwCPKuXpGofziPNieA/feed?activity_view=3 |
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Jerome Hawkes
From:
Fayetteville, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 20 Feb 2015 8:34 am
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| William Cannon III wrote: |
| Thanks Jerome, that brings up another question in regards to proper left hand technique. Is the majority of the bar between your index and middle fingers, or index and thumb with the index finger arched over? Or is that all a matter of personal preference? |
there is no one way - much debate on here about the 'correct' way to hold the bar. the first step is to be able to hold on & control the bar...its round, 'heavy', awkward and slippery...however you can control it - do that. once you can do that, i think you need to do a little forward thinking into how/what you want to play. some people can play what they want just fine with the grip they started with. i found it an evolution & experiment to get to my current grip - which so happens to be the 'classic' grip taught in every steel guitar method going back to the 30's. that would be holding the bar between the thumb and middle finger with the index arched on top.
_________________
'65 Sho-Bud D-10 Permanent • '54 Fender Dual-8 • Clinesmith T-8 • '38 Ric Bakelite • '92 Emmons D-10 Legrande II |
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Jerome Hawkes
From:
Fayetteville, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 20 Feb 2015 8:53 am
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i want to add that one of the benefits i have found from the arched finger on top of the bar...not flat, not off to the side, etc. is that my intonation is much better. i use to have the index off to the side - what happened was i felt my intonation was squirrelly. the index is called the pointer finger for a reason...you use it to point and there is a fairly good eye to index connection. you can even do a little experiment by looking at something in the room, close your eyes and point with the index and it will be fairly consistent when you open your eyes. same thing on the fretboard. you just point the bar where you want it to go - nice and easy 
also the finger off to the side obscures your vision on the frets - you are guessing where the fret is...might hit it, might not.
_________________
'65 Sho-Bud D-10 Permanent • '54 Fender Dual-8 • Clinesmith T-8 • '38 Ric Bakelite • '92 Emmons D-10 Legrande II |
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chris ivey
From:
california (deceased)
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Posted 20 Feb 2015 11:51 am
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however, i think most experienced players position the bar by ear, not by sight.
i could never do the arched finger thing. it felt too unnatural. |
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William Cannon III
From:
Florida, USA
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Posted 20 Feb 2015 3:38 pm
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| Thanks for the input, I really appreciate the help. Does the index over the bar help with slants at all? |
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John Limbach
From:
Billings, Montana, USA
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Posted 20 Feb 2015 8:09 pm
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| According to Jerry Byrd, Yes |
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Stephen Schoenadel
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 20 Feb 2015 11:00 pm
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| i like using a steel with a groove cut on the top, such as a Steven's bar. I like having one with a square end on one end, and a bullet end on the other. I have a Shubb-pearse like this. easy to hold, slant, and pull-off. there are quite a few steel players who use these. i think kayton Roberts uses a regular Stevens bar. |
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Adam Nero
From:
Wisconsin
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Posted 21 Feb 2015 4:16 pm
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| John Limbach wrote: |
| According to Jerry Byrd, Yes |
Who?
Jerome hit the nail on the head -- I use the 918 for lap, 920 for pedal. Of course this is a general rule. I rehearsed the other week with my current band and forgot my 918 at home. All I had was this monster of a thing that the seller included with my Fender Deluxe 8. I played better than usual and enjoyed the extra sustain. So. Rules and made to be broken and yadda yadda yadda.
I have no huge problem with grooved/Stevens/dobro style bars. What's good enough for Don Helms is good enough for me. But Don never used slants. Jerry Byrd did, and used bullet bars. Makes sense. Reverse slants are a pain with those things. At least they are for me. And they're generally not as heavy. I have an SP1 and it's not close to the weight of a Dunlop 918.
_________________
2 cheap dobros, several weird old lap steels, and one lifelong ticket to ride on the pedal steel struggle bus. |
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Jim Williams
From:
Meridian, Mississippi, USA - Home of Peavey!
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Posted 27 Feb 2015 10:55 am
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I have a 918, 919 and 920. I use the 918 a good bit on my six stringers and generally the 919 on my 8 string. The 920 was from when I had a pedal steel. I've tried it a few times on the non pedals, but it seems a bit too much to me for them.
_________________
GFI SM10 3/4, 1937 Gibson EH-150, 2 - Rondo SX Lap Steels and a Guyatone 6 String C6. Peavey 400 and a Roland 40 Amps. Behringer Reverb Pedal. |
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David Mason
From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
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Posted 27 Feb 2015 12:54 pm
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| It's worth remembering - you don't have to choose, use 'em for what's needed most when. Kinda like, "Which Ferrari do I drive to go buy catfood with?" If you had a lot of Ferraris. And a cat. |
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