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Topic: Restringing A Rickenbacker B6 |
James Honberger
From: Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 23 Jan 2015 6:56 am
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Went to restring my Rick last night, and I wasn't paying attention when I removed the strings. I have restrung guitars many times over the years, but never a lap steel. This one is making me feel stupid. I got the string through the back of the body and past the pickup okay. But, the tuner posts don't have holes in the sides like regular guitars. There is a notch at the top of the post, and a hole inside that. I tried a couple different ways, but the string kept coming loose so I gave up. Anyone have a simple solution to this seemingly simple problem? _________________ Founder and CEO of The National Council of Stragglers |
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Rick Barnhart
From: Arizona, USA
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Posted 23 Jan 2015 7:04 am
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I wonder if the original tuners have been replaced with something like these...if so, easy peasy, just cut the string to the proper length, poke the string straight down into the center hole, rotate it 90° into the slot, make your sharp bend, then start tightening it normally.
_________________ Clinesmith consoles D-8/6 5 pedal, D-8 3 pedal & A25 Frypan, Pettingill Teardrop, & P8 Deluxe. |
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James Honberger
From: Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 23 Jan 2015 7:10 am Restringing A Rickenbacker B6
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Thanks for your response Rick. Yes the tuners look like the ones on that Tele, except vintage looking. What do you mean when you say "make your sharp bend"? _________________ Founder and CEO of The National Council of Stragglers |
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Rick Barnhart
From: Arizona, USA
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Posted 23 Jan 2015 7:15 am
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_________________ Clinesmith consoles D-8/6 5 pedal, D-8 3 pedal & A25 Frypan, Pettingill Teardrop, & P8 Deluxe. |
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Dom Franco
From: Beaverton, OR, 97007
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Stephen Cowell
From: Round Rock, Texas, USA
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Posted 23 Jan 2015 10:33 pm
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You are supposed to cut the string *after* making the sharp bend, be clear about that... this holds only for wound strings, not critical on the solid strings.
So run the string through the bridge, measure it against the post it goes to, then make your bend about 1.5 inches beyond the post. Use pliers, make it as sharp as you can... then cut the string about 1/3 inch after the bend. Stick the right-angle part down the center hole of the slotted head and start turning the tuning key to wind the string. Make another sharp bend while you're doing this so that the string follows the surface of the post, a little zig-zag... while winding, get one wrap on top of the string, then the rest below the string, going down the post.
You can read this guide:
http://www2.fender.com/support/articles/telecaster-setup-guide/
... but note that they don't tell you about bending the string before you cut it. If you don't, the wrap can become loose, which kills the tone instantly.
For normal tuners, you want the string to be locked by the wraps... plenty of stuff online about that. _________________ Too much junk to list... always getting more. |
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James Honberger
From: Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 28 Jan 2015 10:13 am
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Thanks guys. Whew, that was not easy, but at least I know how to do it now. I have never encountered machines like that. _________________ Founder and CEO of The National Council of Stragglers |
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Larry Carlson
From: My Computer
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Posted 28 Jan 2015 11:40 am
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My son has those tuners on his strat.
I like them so much I just might steal them in the dark of night.
They make restringing much more pleasant. _________________ I have stuff.
I try to make music with it.
Sometimes it works.
Sometimes it doesn't.
But I keep on trying. |
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James Hartman
From: Pennsylvania, USA
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Posted 28 Jan 2015 2:07 pm
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I've found that the plain 1st string can slip when installed on this style of tuner, especially with light gauge strings (so, less likely a problem on a lap steel).
In any case, on a Strat or Tele I always install the 1st and 2nd string as if the slot in the tuner post was a standard hole through the post and "lock" the string by bringing the tail back around the post (opposite direction) and then under the first wrap (sounds complicated to the uninitiated, but it's simple and effective). Just to avoid potential slippage.
That aside, I agree with Dom, it's a nice tuner design. |
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