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Post new topic Mullen G2 or Rittenberry?
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Author Topic:  Mullen G2 or Rittenberry?
David Graham

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 31 Jul 2014 4:31 pm    
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Differences? Likes? Dislikes? Pros and cons? Comparisons? In a perfect world which one would you choose and why.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 31 Jul 2014 5:00 pm    
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I'd say you could flip a coin. Both at the top of the list of the current crop (I'd say that the top 5 would be: MSA; Mullen; Ritt; Fessenden and Williams. With the exception of the ramped fingers of the Willy, I'm thinking they're fairly similar in design, finish and execution).
It's kinda like saying "I want a nice sedan: Beemer or Mercedes?"
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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David Graham

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 6:34 am     G2 or Rittenberry
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Lane
Thanks for the feedback. Without playing them side-by-side it is hard to know the differences so I appreciate your input. After searching the Forum I get the general impression that most of the "modern" PSG's are built to the same general design but individual builders tweak the mechanical quality. Are the ramped fingers on the Williams designed to cut down on string breakage or do they serve another purpose? Any personal preference on the sound produced by the G2 vs the Rittenberry.
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Carl Williams


From:
Oklahoma
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 6:49 am    
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David,
No info here on either Ritt or G2 but your asking about the Williams "ramp" and string breakage. Just my opinion, but I own a custom built Willy 700 Model and I believe this extended ramp does in fact help reduce strings breaking not to mention making it a little easier to string it up. Back to your decision on a Ritt or G2...it would be great if you could sit behind both to get a real "test drive"...I've been guilty of not doing this in the past. Good luck...Carl
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 7:48 am    
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You'd have to ask Bill Rudolph to be sure, but I thought they have ramps for break reduction and brass for tone.
Given how similar the modern guitars have become, I think it'd be nice if someone put together either a chart or list comparing and contrasting the features.
The MSA has the nifty pedal height adjustment on the body (no need to identify the rods) and modular pickups.
Willy has the ramps and brass fingers.
I'm sure Ritt and Mullen and Rains and the rest have some unique characteristics, beyond just well built and purty, but I'm not sure. (I think Mullen uses bearings)
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 8:04 am    
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i don't dig this recent trend of posts asking to pit one model over another. ...as in the mullen and gfi thread.
all these steels have redeeming qualities and there is really no way to rate them. if you go by what other people think, you're denying yourself valuable information.
the only real way to know what you like is to play the models you're interested in....and not just for a minute. you need to spend some time with it. otherwise you will become another of the fools i see buying and selling what someone told them was 'the best' week after week.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 8:18 am    
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Chris, that's why I think a chart or list comparing the available features of the guitars on the market would be a good idea. No judgment calls, just a list of features.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 9:08 am    
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yeah, ok.
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David Graham

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 10:32 am     G2 or Rittenberry
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Chris I agree with you that pitting one steel vs another steel is undesirable.
Since I don't, easily, have the opportunity to compare these steels side-by-side I do appreciate any info that I can glean from players who know more than I do about a particular instrument. I also realize that subjectivity comes into play at times. The objective info, like "finger ramps on the Willy" is great material that I didn't know before asking the question(thanks Lane). The question is not which is better, the BMW or the Mercedes, but what are the merits and differences of these two fine machines. I really appreciate the Forum for all the information shared and even opinions tend to be useful when taken with a grain of salt. Thanks for adding to the discussion.
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Tony Glassman


From:
The Great Northwest
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 10:47 am    
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I played a G2 in Dallas and was super impressed. People rave about Ritts. You can't go wrong w/ either guitar

Last edited by Tony Glassman on 2 Aug 2014 11:04 am; edited 1 time in total
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 10:49 am    
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I may try to put together such a list. It may take a few weeks to gather the data and a but longer to figure out a coherent presentation. I may put up another thread looking for input as to what data points are relevant.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 1:44 pm    
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Most manufacturers have very little detail on their web sites. It took me about 8 hours of work to put together a detailed list of features and SUPER CLOSE UP pictures of my MSA Legend. Check it out here:


http://www.gregcutshaw.com/Msa/msa.html


Greg
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 2:03 pm    
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Greg, that's one handy and handsome list.
Rather than trouble Kyle, may I crib from it for the MSA portion?
I think that answers "why do they cost more than almost everyone else?"
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Greg Cutshaw


From:
Corry, PA, USA
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 5:30 pm    
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Crib away!
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David Graham

 

From:
North Carolina, USA
Post  Posted 2 Aug 2014 8:44 pm    
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Greg
That is one beautiful site about one gorgeous steel! I am amazed at your attention to detail in documenting your MSA and what a fine photo testament to beautiful craftsmanship. I loved the removable pup mechanism.
Thanks for sharing the fruits of your labor.
Are there other folks who have documented their machines like this?
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Peter Nylund


From:
Finland
Post  Posted 3 Aug 2014 1:26 am    
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One significant difference between Mullen and the other brands mentioned in this post is that Mullen uses chromed steel endplates. If it has any impact on sound I do not know but it sure feels steady as a rock.
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I know my playing is a bit pitchy, but at least my tone sucks
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Daniel Policarpo


Post  Posted 3 Aug 2014 2:27 am    
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Greg, that is one wicked looking MSA! The quality and detail of the pics really show the quality and detail of the craftsmanship. Sweet.
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Craig A Davidson


From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
Post  Posted 3 Aug 2014 6:51 am    
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Polls like this are tough. I have a Mullen RP and love it but I have a fondness for my 700 series Williams more.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 3 Aug 2014 7:01 am    
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Craig, given that he'd asked for both a comparison of features and pros and cons of each, I think that he asked for fuller info and a good question. But I agree with your premise when applied to those "which is better?" topics.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Craig A Davidson


From:
Wisconsin Rapids, Wisconsin USA
Post  Posted 3 Aug 2014 6:48 pm    
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I do think the changer system on the Williams does limit string breakage. As far as playability both guitars play great and stay in tune. In all fairness I have own an RP and not a G2 but the G2 has to be just as good or better than an RP.
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Mike Mantey


From:
Eastern Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 4 Aug 2014 7:52 am     Everyone will have opinions. Here are our facts.
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Mullen G2 Features

• All Quality Hard Rock Maple Body
• 24 ¼” Scale
• Triple Raise/Triple Lower Changer
• Split Tuning in the Changer (all strings)
• Super Precision Aluminum Changer
• Highly Polished Hardened Changer Rollers
• No-break Changer String Slot (catches broken string end; no pin)
• Polished-Chrome Plated Steel Endplates (over 30 year mirror finish)
• Neutral Changer Stop Position with adjustable stops on all Knees and Pedals
• Adjustable Knee Lever Tilt/Angle
• Custom Wound Mullen Pickups with Adjustable mounting plate
• Solid Construction complete with 6061 Aircraft Aluminum
• Made, Designed, and Engineered in Our Own Shop in the USA
• Easy, Clutter-Free Undercarriage, with Removable Bell cranks, Cross rods, and other Components.
• Easy to Maintain and Change Setups
• Adjustable Return Springs with Raise Assist
• Adjustable Chrome Legs
• Hand Crafted Lacquer and Mica Bodies Made In-House with Computer Technology
• Highly Polished Trim and Components
• High Tolerance Brass Nut Rollers
• Ball Bearing Bushings in the Undercarriage
• Sleek Body Design
• No Castings or Pot Metal
• No Slip Hex Cross Rod System
• Floating Undercarriage (will adjust to different humidity changes)
• Rock Solid Stops
• Numbered Hook and Quick Ball Joint Disconnect Pedal Rod System
• Quick Slide Pedal Bar Attachments
• Over 40 Years in Business, Family Owned and Operated, and hoping for over 40 more years.
• Most of All Precision and Tone!
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 4 Aug 2014 8:37 am    
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Mike, does that mean that the pedal cross shafts aren't secured to the deck or apron? I think that'd be a plus, since I suspect pedal forces tugging on the cabinet are a prime factor in cabinet drop.
Since someone asked, I'm considering taking up the task of compiling a comparison chart/list of available guitars. Look for correspondence from me soonish (iI'm still trucking, so this won't be a one week project).
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Mike Mantey


From:
Eastern Colorado, USA
Post  Posted 4 Aug 2014 8:44 am    
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No Lane, they are secured in the front with no slack or slop, however the back has a free floating feature, that allows the body to make humidity changes without binding the cross shaft. They have to be secured though to give it the rock solid stops we have.
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Larry Bressington

 

From:
Nebraska
Post  Posted 4 Aug 2014 9:08 am    
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I can only speak for the Mullen...

It is an amazing guitar, i do mostly outdoor venues all summer long, week after week in blazing heat and cooling evenings, with bugs, dusty Rodeo's, fair's, moisture covering the guitar sometimes in July/ august, terrible humidity here.

I can say that it is one bullet proof guitar... I never had to tune it TWICE through all the temp changes of a day to evening, it's smack on one set after another...

The ability to change Co-Ped's is amazing.

I have no regrets in retiring the Sho-bud to the chop building room.
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A.K.A Chappy.
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