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Post new topic set-up and tuning a marlen s10 steel
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Author Topic:  set-up and tuning a marlen s10 steel
Jim Tietjens

 

From:
Iowa, USA
Post  Posted 29 Jun 2014 6:05 pm    
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I am new to the pedal steel.Just bought a marlen s10 3x3.would like to find an owners manual with set-up,tuning and maintenance instructions.thank you.Jim T
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Scott Duckworth


From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2014 3:05 am    
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Here is a little help, base on the Marlen D-10 I had.

Copedent



Tuning: (per string)
Top note: keyhead
Bottom note: screw
middle note 1: nut
middle note 2 (or more): under guitar.

In other words, if a string has no raises or lowers, tune it at the keyhead.

If a string has a raise, activate what raises it, and tune at the keyhead, then use the screw on the changer for the relaxed note (no ped or knee).

If the string has a lower, tune the relaxed string with the keyhead, then the activated note with the tuning nuts.

If it happens to have two lower on one string, the other tuning point will be a stop screw under the guitar at the lever.

Someone else may have an actual scan of a manual, or a much better tuning instruction.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2014 5:27 am    
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Scott has it pretty well nailed, provided it is a pull-release guitar (which it probably is).
The last few years of production, Marlens were all-pull.
Jim, if you could put up a picture of the changer-end endplate, we could tell you which you have.
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Scott Duckworth


From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2014 6:07 am    
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And I should have mentioned that the tuning procedure I posted came from Lane, who was a big help to me with my Marlen.
_________________
Amateur Radio Operator NA4IT (Extra)
http://www.qsl.net/na4it

I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus!
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2014 8:18 am    
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while on this subject, i've got a question about an msa red baron a friend wanted me to adjust. pull-release also.
the 10th string barely has enough pedal travel (which isn't adjustable) to relax back to open pitch. actually not quite enough...
i think it's set up as it was made originally.
the 5th pedal also affecting that pedal has
the standard b-c# pulls and c pedal also affects that 5th string changer finger, but nothing seems out of order.
how can i get more travel on the 10th string note?
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2014 8:22 am    
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would a heavier 10th string require less distance to reach pitch?
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Glenn Uhler

 

From:
Trenton, New Jersey, USA
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2014 9:47 am     Owners Manual
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Jim,
I got my Marlen brand new from Stadtler Music, and there was _no_ owners manual or instructions in the case when it arrived. The chart above is about the best you will get. A trip to a PSG tech somewhere in the midwest will a good investment and education for you.
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1974 Marlen S-12 1968 Tele 1969 Martin D-35H
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 30 Jun 2014 10:11 am    
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Chris, is there something limiting the BACKWARDS motion of the pedal?
Those Pull-release guitars, the finger should go all the way to the body for the C#, and relax all the way to B. I can't see why something would stop the pedal or crossrod before it gets to B.
A heavier string might do it, but so would a lighter string (I think), because the slacker a string gets, the quicker it responds/less travel it takes.
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Jim Tietjens

 

From:
Iowa, USA
Post  Posted 1 Jul 2014 4:39 pm     marlen tuning
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Thank you Lane and Scott. Jim T
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Ricky Davis


From:
Bertram, Texas USA
Post  Posted 2 Jul 2014 6:07 am    
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Chris that 10th string finger should be idle against a end screw right?? To create more distance for the finger to move forward from that stop screw; back off that screw some and the idle string will go flat; then adjust the open at tuning peg back to "B" ; then press pedal and adjust C# note at Tuning peg and open note at stop screw. And yes it takes less distance to pull a bigger gauged string.
Ricky
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Ricky Davis
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 2 Jul 2014 8:52 am    
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thanx ricky...i get that. the problem is it won't relax back far enough to go flat.

it's very close,so i may try a slightly larger string.
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Ricky Davis


From:
Bertram, Texas USA
Post  Posted 2 Jul 2014 10:21 am    
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gotcha
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Ricky Davis
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Ricky Davis


From:
Bertram, Texas USA
Post  Posted 2 Jul 2014 7:01 pm    
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Chris; thinking more about your deal. When you say relax back....you mean when you hook the string on and the tension alone, does not relax the finger back to the stop screw?? If that is the case.....there is something going on with the finger right?? I mean it should easily go to the screw that stops it when you put tension of the string on there?
Ricky
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Ricky Davis
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 2 Jul 2014 8:56 pm    
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no..the collar on the pull rod for that finger stops it from coming back any further. there is just so much distance the bellcrank assembly (which is a slider more like early msa or zb) allows. and there is no adjustment to lengthen the pedal action. i haven't pulled the collar off yet cause the set screw is so tight, but don't see how that will actually free up any more pull distance.

the other pulls on string 5 from a and c pedals seem to be adjusted right working within that same amount of travel.

don't waste any brain cells over it, thanx. i really haven't spent too much time with it yet cause of other responsibilities and laziness.
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Ricky Davis


From:
Bertram, Texas USA
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2014 6:20 am    
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I can dig.
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Ricky Davis
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2014 6:48 am    
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Can you give the pedal MORE travel the other way?
If you can, then move that stop, and the collars on 10 and 5.
OR: is there another hole in the 10th string finger closer to the axle? If so, try that, so that the finger moves farther for the same amount of pedal travel.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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