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Topic: Remove broken ball joint screw thread? |
Dylan Keating
From:
Montreal QC
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Posted 17 May 2014 6:26 pm |
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Today while I was practicing the ball joint screw on the A pedal of my Linkon S-10 steel broke. The ball and hex part snapped clean off, leaving the thread inside. I have to play a show tomorrow so I've swapped the A and C pedals temporarily. Is there a good way to to get the screw thread out of the pedal? Or do I just need to get a new pedal? I'm probably going to order one from Wayne Link anyway so I can keep it as a spare, but it'd be nice if I could somehow salvage this one.
Thanks,
Dylan
_________________
"Steel a little and they throw you in jail, Steel a lot and they make you King." |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 17 May 2014 6:32 pm
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Monday, go to just about any automotive machine shop with the pedal, and ask them to extract the screw.
Hardware stores sell screw extractors (also called "easy-outs", one of the big sellers), but they're not real easy to use until you get the knack, and you can tear up some stuff getting the knack.
The last time I had it happen, I paid $15 for two extractions (twisted the heads off the screws holding MSA pillow blocks on). About ten minutes in the hands of one who knows what they're doing.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Greg Spence
From:
Union, MO
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Posted 17 May 2014 7:53 pm
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I've had it happen twice on my Maverick. I got lucky because the hole is threaded all the way thru the cross shaft. First, I soaked the broken screw with 3-in-1 oil overnight then I started with a very small drill bit to start a hole in the center of the broken screw then went to a slightly larger bit which grabbed and I was able to slowly run the broken screw thru the cross shaft.
Good luck - it can be done- but as Lane says you can have a pro do it and feel a lot safer.
_________________
MSA "The Universal" - Peavey Nashville 112 - Fender Mustang III amp - and way too many guitars |
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Hamilton Barnard
From:
Oro Valley, Arizona (deceased)
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Posted 17 May 2014 8:53 pm
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| I would try left hand twist drill bit first. Use a size smaller bit than the broke off stud. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 17 May 2014 9:09 pm
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Hamilton, that's pretty much what the screw extractors are. And if you're not used to using them, they often don't work well (especially if you don't put that hole DEAD center of the broken screw). At least my result, on several occasions (and I'm relatively handy), has been a couple of hours of sweating and swearing.
I bet there's probably some youtube videos on easy outs or screw extractors that would make it easier, but I STILL prefer turning $15 into someone else's effort to doing that job
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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richard burton
From:
Britain
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Posted 18 May 2014 12:35 am
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You may be able to get it out by heating the pedal up in your kitchen oven (as hot as the oven will go), then hold it with pliers/vice grips/vice while it is still hot and see if the broken thread will 'whittle' out with a screwdriver that's been sharpened to a point.
The reasoning behind the heating up is that alumnium expands far more than steel when it is heated, hopefully leaving the broken steel stud loose in the threaded hole.
If you do try this method, use all safety precautions possible, as aluminium at 250 degrees centigrade takes no prisoners |
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David Nugent
From:
Gum Spring, Va.
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Posted 18 May 2014 4:49 am
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| Snapped two of the studs on the pedals of my MSA Classic (was a bit heavy footed when first learning!). My solution was to use a very small file and carefully cut a slot in the exposed area of the stud. Then as Richard suggested, heated the pedal and backed the stud out using a thin bladed screwdriver. |
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Jimmy Gibson
From:
Cornwall, England
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Posted 18 May 2014 8:25 am
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I always put a small washer between the shoulder of the connector and the pedal because sometimes the connectors do not screw in tight up to the pedal. This is the main reason why they snap, try this and you will have less problems .
Jimmy. |
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Dylan Keating
From:
Montreal QC
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Posted 18 May 2014 8:31 am
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Thanks for the ideas everybody, I think I'm going to do what Lane suggested and have a machine shop do it on Tuesday. I don't want to sacrifice my pedal learning how to use a screw extractor  And Jimmy, I'll make sure to put washers on to be safe. I'm pretty sure my problem was the screw wasn't in there flush.
Dylan
_________________
"Steel a little and they throw you in jail, Steel a lot and they make you King." |
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Jim Smith
From:
Midlothian, TX, USA
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Posted 18 May 2014 9:44 am
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The reason they break is because they are so hard and thus brittle. The washer idea is good because they need to be screwed in flush to get maximum surface contact and prevent snapping; an idea that the early MSAs should have used, as the top pedal hole also had the cross shaft set screw in it. I learned that from experience.  |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 19 May 2014 9:00 pm Removing broken ball joint screw thread
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| If the threaded end goes clear through the pedal, Go to the opposite end from the broken end. apply some Kano-croil or liquid wrench. If either end comes even with the peddle. Take a Dremmel Tool with cut off wheel worn down to about 1/2 inch in diameter. Carefully cut a screwdriver slot in the broken screw. Take a fitting screwdriver and shake both ways till it is loose. Screw it out like a stuck screw. Easy Outs, small steel screws in aluminum are a disaster. I worked in a machine shop and seen 1000 dollar dry cleaner equipment ruined by this process. Be careful and GOOD LUCK |
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