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Topic: Cleaning Changer with Naphtha |
Larry Dahl
From:
Melbourne, FL USA
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Posted 4 Mar 2014 12:48 pm |
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Recently there was a good thread about using lighter fluid containing naphtha as a solvent for cleaning the changer. I was in need of something to clean the 3rd string finger on a Crossover. It was slow to lower, and slow to return from a raise. You could hear the changes slowly make their way to stop over a second, or two. I made one application of lighter fluid on that finger, and the problem was gone.
This was an old almost empty can of Ronson from long ago. It says on the can "Contains Naphtha." So, a day, or two later, I tried to buy another can for the future.
The new cans of Ronson and Zippo say "Contains Petroleum Distillate."
Naphtha is available at Ace Hardware in pint cans.
Just what is the difference between these fluids in relation to cleaning changers? |
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Ron Pruter
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 4 Mar 2014 1:42 pm
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Larry,
I too have been using naphtha with great success for years. It's a safe way to go. It generally will not hurt a finish, but I never take a chance and wipe it off the finish immediately, if any splashes on it.. BTW, If I have the changer off the guitar, lacquer thinner is much faster. RP
_________________
Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 4 Mar 2014 1:51 pm
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Naphtha IS a petroleum distillate. Since Zippo fluid smells like it always has (not as scientific as other processes, but WTH), I'd assume that only the label changed. DON'T confuse it with charcoal lighter fluid, since it feels a bit heavier and gummy.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 4 Mar 2014 3:29 pm
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For the record, Naptha or other solutions poured through the changer are a poor substitute for cleaning the changer. It may temporarily dissolve some of the gunk, but it will seize back up--it's still in there--just rearranged a little. Complete dis-assembly is necessary to properly clean out a changer.
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
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Clete Ritta
From:
San Antonio, Texas
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Posted 5 Mar 2014 2:27 pm
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| Lane Gray wrote: |
| ...DON'T confuse it with charcoal lighter fluid... |
Oh no! Ive been using charcoal lighter fluid or pure naphtha to clean stuff. Either worked well and I didnt notice any difference. I confused them as the same thing. Never used lighter fluid on a changer luckily! Thanks for the tip Lane.  |
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David Higginbotham
From:
Lake Charles, Louisiana, USA
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Posted 5 Mar 2014 4:48 pm
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| Quote: |
| For the record, Naptha or other solutions poured through the changer are a poor substitute for cleaning the changer. It may temporarily dissolve some of the gunk, but it will seize back up--it's still in there--just rearranged a little. Complete dis-assembly is necessary to properly clean out a changer. |
I totally agree! |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 5 Mar 2014 7:00 pm
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Clete, I suspect the charcoal fluid wouldn't harm anything as long as it gets dried. From reading up yesterday, the naphthas are around the same weight (and volatility) as gasoline, but the charcoal lighter stuff seems to be (I couldn't find info beyond just "petroleum distillates, so I only use my experience and my senses: the feel, smell and appearance of the flames and smoke) somewhere between gas and diesel (C8H18 and C16H34).
I'd also agree with James. Far better to take out the changer and clean it. (Some guitars make that easier than others)
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Mickey Adams
From:
Bandera Texas
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Posted 6 Mar 2014 6:55 am
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I have developed a pretty effective sequence for clearing the Mullen changers when overhauling. First the changer soaks in 1/10 solution of simple green, in a sonic bath at 160 degrees for 15 minutes. I remove the changer and use GUN SCRUBBER, which can be found at any (Wal-Mart) to loosen any remaining (usually very little) remnants of petroleum products. The changer will dry in about 1 minute. Back in the bath for another 5, and then sprayed once again...by this time, Im looking at bare metal, DRY as a bone..I then use Exxon 2380 Jet Engine oil (sparingly) and only where needed. Yesterday I traded for a guitar that I had previously worked on. I tore out the changer and noticed immediately, after 2 years, the oil was still golden colored, and the changer was clean as a whistle..I think most would agree that if you went through this process you will see that there is NO REASON to drown your changer in lubricants, as some people insist on doing. If your changer is not limber and unimpeded,the application of petroleum is only going to cause some other owner down the road a lot of grief..for VERY little effective return in playability...With all that said, Ive seen 25 year old Mullen changers that were NEVER lubricated that worked just fine, and were clean. The tolerances engineered into the device were sufficient in minimizing drag...JMHO
_________________
ARTIST RELATIONS: MSA GUITARS
2017 MSA LEGEND XL D10, S10, Studio Pro S12 EXE9
Mullen G2, Rittenberry S10, Infinity D10, Zumsteel 8+9
Anderson, Buscarino, Fender, Roman Guitars, Sarno Octal, Revelation Preamps, BJS BARS, Lots of Blackface Fenders!
Last edited by Mickey Adams on 8 Mar 2014 10:49 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 6 Mar 2014 3:12 pm
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| Quote: |
| Ive seen 25 year old Mullen changers that were NEVER lubricated that worked just fine, and were clean. The tolerances engineered into the device was sufficient in minimizing drag...JMHO |
I'm inclined to agree, many players do it too often, and too much. They feel they're "doing something useful". That said, I do feel that a little lubricant (light oil or ATF) is better than nothing. Lubricants are designed to reduce wear, and every place I've seen none used, wear takes place. Of course, some steels, like the GFI, have many nylon parts, and those shouldn't be oiled!
(WARNING - HUMOR ALERT!)
Also, Mickey, I know that you like the fancy, high-speed, super-exotic turbine oil Exxon 2380 whatchamacallit, but it's really hard to find in Pep Boys, Home depot, or Lowes, and is probably a little more exotic product than is required for parts that move or rotate at less than 1 RPM. 
All IMHO, or course.  |
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Mickey Adams
From:
Bandera Texas
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Posted 6 Mar 2014 5:23 pm
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Agreed... But I have access to gallons of it!! LMAO!
Truth be told, it's synthetic, and is very high viscosity.. Any lightweight synthetic is suitable IMHO,
_________________
ARTIST RELATIONS: MSA GUITARS
2017 MSA LEGEND XL D10, S10, Studio Pro S12 EXE9
Mullen G2, Rittenberry S10, Infinity D10, Zumsteel 8+9
Anderson, Buscarino, Fender, Roman Guitars, Sarno Octal, Revelation Preamps, BJS BARS, Lots of Blackface Fenders! |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 9 Mar 2014 4:45 pm
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Like Mickey, I use the jet turbine oil to lube the changer on the BenRom. Bought a quart for $20 at the local airport. Should last me forever. Great lube!
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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