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Post new topic Steel seat leg design
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Author Topic:  Steel seat leg design
Rick Contino


From:
Brattleboro, Vermont
Post  Posted 9 Feb 2014 11:25 am    
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I'm building my own pac seat and am wondering what design works best for legs. Are there leg kits available for sale anywhere? If not I'll have a machinist make some.
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Jeff Metz Jr.


From:
York, Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 9 Feb 2014 4:27 pm    
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Take a look at some of the common builds and gather some ideas there.
Most seats that I have seen use one piece of aluminum that its bent into 2 right angles. The front legs are one piece and the rear are another.

For a home build, you could always use threaded legs and just screw them on and off when used.

I m sure with a google search of Pac-a-seat , or steel guitar seat you will find plenty. Good luck.
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Scott Duckworth


From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
Post  Posted 9 Feb 2014 5:46 pm    
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Here's mine. The legs are 2" diameter poplar dowels, with hanger bolts in them and T nuts in the bottom of the box. They unscrew and fit in the box with everything else.





and no, I do not take it to the creek when fishin'...
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Bill L. Wilson


From:
Oklahoma, USA
Post  Posted 9 Feb 2014 9:45 pm     Steel Seat Legs.
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Joe Naylor at STEEL SEAT, might sell you a set. Or buy some aluminum tubing, take it to a muffler shop and have them bend it for you. Be aware of the weight of the materials that you use. My old Sho-Bud seat with all of the gear I haul, comes in at 40lbs. But it is absolutely Bullit proof, which I thought was gonna be put to the test Fri. nite, when some cowboy came up and acted like he was playin' my Emmons, using a 25cal. automatic pistol, for a slide. I gently reached up, took the gun out of his hand, and laid it on my amp. Then went and checked my britches, which were clean.
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Jim Smith


From:
Midlothian, TX, USA
Post  Posted 12 Feb 2014 4:38 pm    
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Jeff Metz Jr. wrote:
The front legs are one piece and the rear are another.

On all of the seats I've seen and owned, the left legs are one piece and the right legs are another.
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Bobby D. Jones

 

From:
West Virginia, USA
Post  Posted 12 Feb 2014 6:22 pm    
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You may want to settle on the legs you are going to use before you final design the box itself. I have a steel seat which dates back several years. Each leg has a bracket that mounts to the bottom of the seat and the legs are about 3/8 rod V's you squeeze to unlock and lock folded and in use position. They are not adjustable or height changeable. You would have to make the box the right height to get the height you desire. The one I use now has Alumnium tubing legs that could be bent with Eletrical Conduit bender. And the legs are held in place with Conduit hangers and bolts. If you use tubing for legs make them long, Then cut to the right height.Good Luck in your build.
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Scott Duckworth


From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
Post  Posted 13 Feb 2014 3:20 am    
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Here some leg pictures...








There are others...
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I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus!
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Per Berner


From:
Skovde, Sweden
Post  Posted 13 Feb 2014 7:52 am    
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Why not use retractable square legs, that would be easy to adjust in height? OK, som interior space would be lost, but it would look a lot nicer.
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Walter Killam


From:
Nebraska, USA
Post  Posted 13 Feb 2014 8:06 am    
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I've been thinking about using a step stool for my next seat:

http://www.harborfreight.com/step-stool-working-platform-66911.html

just drill a few holes through it & bolt it on!
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 13 Feb 2014 9:44 am    
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The original design folding legs, designed by Duane Mars (Sho-Bud seat) is the best option.

I've built about 20 seats, starting with the folding legs that Emmons and Kline used. I didn't like that design and settled on the Duane Mars design as used by most builders. I used 3/4" conduit that was cut and welded at 90 degree angles, along with 1/4" stainless steel rod for the braces. The last one I built, in 93 or 94 is still being used today, and is still in very good condition.
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Rick Contino


From:
Brattleboro, Vermont
Post  Posted 13 Feb 2014 6:29 pm    
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Thanks for all the replies. I may end up just hacking down the legs on another old seat I have. Jack, do you have any pictures of the design you discussed?

Thanks

Rick
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 14 Feb 2014 3:35 am    
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Rick, I don't have any pictures. The conduit was a square "U" shape. The conduit was cut (mitered) and welded at the welding department of a stainless steel equipment manufacturing facility that had all the right equipment to do that (thanks to a guitar player I was working with that knew the welding department foreman). I used rubber feet (like is on steel guitar legs) with a metal washer inside to help prevent the conduit from cutting the rubber feet.

One of the people using my seats was 220 lbs and the conduit held up with that amount of weight.

I tried to find someplace to bend aluminum tubing like is used on many seats but none of the muffler shops had a fixture to bend at the angle required. I found one aluminum fabrication shop that could do it but they would only take on the job if I wanted a large number (over 100) done.
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Joe Naylor


From:
Avondale, Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 14 Feb 2014 2:07 pm     note from steelseats
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Just got off the phone with a guy that was trying to build a steelseat and told me that the Legs were the problem. He had looked over this post and did not like some of the solutions so just ordered a seat from me.

The fixture I have to bend legs was special made - as far as I know the other manufactures also have a special bender.

Joe Naylor
www.steelseat.com
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Joe Naylor, Avondale, AZ (Phoenix) Announcer/Emcee owner www.steelseat.com *** OFFERING SEATS AND Effects cases with or without legs and other stuff ****** -Desert Rose Guitar S-10, Life Member of the Arizona Carport Pickers Assoc., Southwest Steel Guitar Assoc., Texas Steel Guitar Assoc., GA Steel Guitar Assoc., KS Steel Guitar Assoc. (Asleep at the Steel) tag line willed to me by a close late friend RIP
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