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Topic: Threading new plastic nuts |
Alvin Douglas
From:
Prince Edward Island
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Posted 17 Feb 2014 5:05 am |
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I decided to replace the plastic tuning nuts on my PSG. They arrived and I discovered that they do not come threaded. Should I buy a tap and thread them or use a tap to at least start the threads? Do they just force thread onto the rods with a push-turn sort of approach? In addition, the original nuts are about 5/8" long and are open on both ends. The new nuts are longer and one end is closed. I am sure they should not stick out past the end of the guitar or they will contact the end pocket of the case. I assume they should be trimmed once they are threaded? Maybe I bought the wrong nuts. Any advice appreciated.
Alvin
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Fender American Deluxe Telecaster, Gibson Les Paul Standard, Quilter MicroPro 8. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 17 Feb 2014 5:08 am
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You thread them by running them on; the rod cuts the thread in the softer nylon.
I'd ignore the closed end unless they protrude past the endplate, in which case I'd trim them.
You may well have bought the wrong ones, but I wouldn't regard it as worth fixing.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Bill Moore
From:
Manchester, Michigan
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Posted 17 Feb 2014 5:52 am
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| They are not pre-threaded, but your MSA didn't originally use the George L style tuning nuts. I believe the original MSA tuning nuts were actually 1/2" nylon standoffs, commonly used in spacing electronic circuit boards. They need to fit the 1/8" rods on your guitar. I've seen them for sale on Ebay, or you could go to one of the big electronic parts web sites and search around for them. You can probably use the 1/8" George L nuts, but get the shorter size, or cut yours shorter with a sharp utility knife. I'd cut off the solid end. |
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James Morehead
From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
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Posted 17 Feb 2014 7:05 am
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Like Lane says, run them on and they will self tap. Best way to do that, put a 3/16 socket in an electric screw driver or drill, and push while they turn. Then they will be threaded. Mark them and trim them short like Bill M. says. I use my band saw, but you can also use an electrician's wire cutter to snip them to length.
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"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 17 Feb 2014 12:58 pm Threading new plastic nuts
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| Those plastic or Nylon tuner nuts are 3/16 on the outside, But are made with 2 different hole sizes. I have some with the small holes, I must drill them with a No. 36 drill so they will start on my guitar rods. If you put just one or two threads with a tap makes them start easier on square faced rods, but let the rod form the rest of the threads so it will not move while playing. Good Luck and Happy Steelin. |
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Don Poland
From:
Hanover, PA.
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Posted 17 Feb 2014 1:22 pm
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For future reference, most any size nylon "standoffs" can be purchased online via Graingers or any other supplier of your choice. They come in all thread sizes and lengths. You can even get them in different shapes if you so desire.
NYLON STANDOFFS! |
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Godfrey Arthur
From:
3rd Rock
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Posted 17 Feb 2014 1:45 pm
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What is the proper standoff nut size, length for a Shobud Pro 1?
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ShoBud The Pro 1
YES it's my REAL NAME!
Ezekiel 33:7 |
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Ron Pruter
From:
Arizona, USA
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Posted 17 Feb 2014 2:18 pm
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I buy mine from Fred Justice. He uses 3/32 rods so I have to drill them out to 1/32 smaller than my thread width. Then I just force them on. They work just fine. I also drill out the first 1/4" even bigger so I don't need the spacers.
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Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
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Mike Mantey
From:
Eastern Colorado, USA
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Paul Redmond
From:
Illinois, USA
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Posted 19 Feb 2014 2:54 am
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The George L's tuners are no longer George L's tuners and haven't been for several years, as Kim sold off that end of their product line to Jeff Surratt at Sho-Pro Guitars. In reality, I am the one who has been having these tuners molded for others since late 1985. The tuners are made of type 408L nylon which has a significantly higher strength rating (appx 16%) than Zytel 101 nylon, and also contains a degree of lubricity.
These tuners were recently issued in a "metallic" color in an effort to diminish the "grungy" appearance of the white tuners due to oil smudge from the wrench. Frenchy's PSG Shop in Belen NM is the sole distributor of these tuners. However, the white ones are still available from both Frenchy's and Sho-Pro.
These tuners are now molded on an as-needed basis in three rod diameters....3/32", 7/64", and 1/8". They are molded in seven lengths... .65", 3/4", 15/16", 1.00", 1-1/8", 1-1/4", 1-1/2". And they are molded in two distinct colors. That makes for a whopping 42 possible combinations/configurations.
Over the years, I have been "stuck" with inventory of a size that may have suddenly been discontinued by a particular manufacturer. That's OK. I understand. These things happen. But from here on in, I will have my custom molder only produce these when I have an order in-hand as I can't justify possibly "eating" any more discontinued product as in the past.
What started out as a "convenience" to me with a "quickie" little "junk" mold, blossomed into a very high-quality, viable product for literally thousands of steel guitarists around the globe, and a dependable product at that.
Contact Jeff for the white tuners.
Contact Frenchy for either the white, or the new "metallic" tuners.
I don't want this to be misconstrued as an advertisement, but there seems to be this constant confusion all the time about these tuners and this frenzy seems to just go on incessantly with no end in sight. This is unnecessary.
Got a question about nylon tuners? Send me an email. In answer to the gentleman's question above about the nuts not having any threads. The core diameter of this nut has been calculated out so that it "upsets" into a near-100% thread when driven onto its respective rod. This same process in reverse, is used to make the head bolts that hold the "topside" of your car's engine together do just that.
PRR |
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