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Author Topic:  Using rack mounted equipment
Jim Means

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 11:12 am    
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I hope this is the right place to post this. This may be a really dumb question. When you set you rack on the floor beside you, how do you manage you cords coming out of bottom? Do you just set the rack on the cords? Looks like that would eventually cut into the cords. Inquiring minds want to know. Confused

Jim in Missouri
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Pete Burak

 

From:
Portland, OR USA
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 11:21 am    
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I put a small piece of foam under one end.
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Jim Means

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 11:51 am    
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Thanks Pete,
That would work good. I was thinking of putting some thing longways across one side leaving a spot for the cords, but was afraid that it would be too unstable and maybe tip over. Putting it on one end shortwise would be a lot more stable.

Jim in Missouri
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 12:06 pm    
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I made a 1 space dummy panel with a power connector at one end and input and output jacks at the other.
I have a 3 space rack and 2 spaces of stuff
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 12:07 pm    
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I made a 1 space dummy panel with a power connector at one end and input and output jacks at the other.
I have a 3 space rack and 2 spaces of stuff
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Jim Means

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 12:10 pm    
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Thank Lane
I am using a 4 space rack with all spaces full so I have to run cord out the back (bottom when setting in use position).

Jim in Missouri
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Erv Niehaus


From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 12:23 pm    
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You need to get a case like Fred Justice makes with the trap door on the bottom side. You can run your cords through that.
On mine, I also put in a plate on the side for the speaker plugs and also one for the power cord plug (like on a computer).
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 12:25 pm    
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If I had that situation, I'd put a couple holes in the sides. Power jack at the right end and input and output on the left. But that's just me. I hated finding the right jacks on the gear in the rack, so my main reason was had to do with leaving all the cables in the case hooked up.
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Jim Means

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 12:29 pm    
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Hi Erv,
How are you? It was good to meet you at the Iowa show. One of Fred's would be nice but I have to keep the weight as low as possible. The rack is a Gator molded rack. I hesitate to cut it and put an access plate there because I want to keep it a tight as possible so it can ride in the bus bay. Thanks for the response.

Jim Means
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Ken Campbell

 

From:
Ferndale, Montana
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 12:31 pm     I carry
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A small peice of 2x4 painted black. Slip it out of your pack seat and under one edge of the rack. Simple. Solid. Unobtrusive. Cheap.
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Jim Means

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 12:35 pm    
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Lane,
I guess we were typing at the same time. Erv had mentioned that also and I have done that to a wooden rack before. I will only have a power cord from the power conditioner and a speaker cable from the power amp coming out.

Jim
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Jim Means

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 12:38 pm    
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Thanks Ken,
This is probably what I will end up doing. The word "simple" and "cheap" is what stands out. I'm about as simple and cheap as the come. Laughing


Jim
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Jim Means

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 1:34 pm    
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Thanks Guys,
I appreciate all the responses. Is this forum great or what? Very Happy


Jim
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Paddy Long


From:
Christchurch, New Zealand
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 5:16 pm    
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Jim what you need is a dish on the outside of the rack box so you can plug everything up externally (power and speakers) ...takes about 1 minute to get hooked up for me.

Here's a pic of what I mean ... everything is hardwired on the inside of the box, and includes a plug board in the bottom of the rack box of course. (sorry no pics of the inside)



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Scott Duckworth


From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 5:48 pm    
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You could also put some tall feet on the "bottom" so that the case wouldn't be sitting on the cables.
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Jim Means

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 12 Dec 2013 6:38 pm    
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Paddy,
I had thought about doing that and I have done that to some previous cases, but wanted to keep the rack as tight as possible from moisture and dirt so I could leave it in the bus bays.


Scott,
Another good idea. Wonder where one could get some taller "feet". I'm sure someone will have a good comeback for that one!! Laughing

Guys, thanks a lot. I knew I could count on you all for some great ideas.

Jim in Missouri
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Johan Jansen


From:
Europe
Post  Posted 13 Dec 2013 1:35 am    
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http://www.steeljj.com/gear/case04.jpg
http://www.steeljj.com/gear/case01.jpg
http://www.steeljj.com/gear/case03.jpg
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Scott Duckworth


From:
Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
Post  Posted 13 Dec 2013 4:29 am    
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Quote:
Wonder where one could get some taller "feet".


Try Parts Express...
http://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=feet&sitesearch=true
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C E Holden


From:
Austin, TX
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2013 3:12 pm    
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My rack has rails front and back...I believe the holes are 6-32 or 8-32. Long screws w/ rubber feet would do it. Also, the case lids have 2" clearance when closed up.
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Ken Campbell

 

From:
Ferndale, Montana
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2013 3:59 pm     Awesome.
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C E Holden wrote:





My rack has rails front and back...I believe the holes are 6-32 or 8-32. Long screws w/ rubber feet would do it. Also, the case lids have 2" clearance when closed up.


I'm doing this. Away with the wood block! Thanks a million for this!
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Brad Sarno


From:
St. Louis, MO USA
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2013 8:41 pm    
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I never open the back of my rack for a gig. Seems to me that it would just add to the time and trouble of setting up. I have the AC power jack and the 1/4" or XLR jacks mounted to the side of the rack. That way you just put it on the floor face up, open the front/top cover, make a few connections and go. No need for risers or blocks.

B
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Jim Means

 

From:
Missouri, USA
Post  Posted 26 Dec 2013 8:50 pm    
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C.E.,
I like your design. My case has back rails as well. What did you use to "manufacture" the legs. This is kind of the direction I was heading, something incorporating use of the back rails. I just didn't know what to use for the "legs".

Brad,
I didn't want to put a "patch panel" on the side because I wanted to keep the rack as moisture and dirt proof as possible so it could travel in the underneath bus bays. Also I thought there would be better air flow if the back was open during use.

Jim in Missouri
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Eric Philippsen


From:
Central Florida USA
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2013 10:31 am    
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I know I'm just repeating what others have said, so I apologize. But here's my two cents worth.

To me, the huge problem with having a rack case with all the gear is that you have to deal with all the power cords, the speaker cords and the interconnects. I don't care how much a person tries to organize it all, it's still a rat's nest of spaghetti that's a time-consuming pain-in-the-xyz to deal with before and after every gig. I absolutely hate it when a rack is set up that way. In fact, I "don't do" any rack that's like that anymore.

The only solution is what Brad Sarno and a few others have mentioned. That is, having both power and speaker jacks on the bottom case side facing the rear. Everything is prewired in the case. Then you just plant the rack case and plug in. Done.

Lack of air flow? Naw, a preamp's couple of tubes doesn't generate enough heat to worry about and solid state stuff sure doesn't. A tube power amo is another thing, though. Moisture inside the rack because of side panel jacks? Heck, throw a bag of dessicant in if that's a worry. Otherwise, slap a piece of duct tape over the jack openings before storing it.


Last edited by Eric Philippsen on 27 Dec 2013 4:23 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Jonathan Cullifer

 

From:
Gallatin, TN
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2013 11:36 am    
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After overheating (and blowing) a set of KT88 tubes, I set my rack on a piano chair and take the front and back off. Sometimes it goes straight on the floor. Otherwise, the power amp slowly heats up to the point that it's unusable after an hour or so. Mounted horizontally, not a problem.
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Johan Jansen


From:
Europe
Post  Posted 27 Dec 2013 11:47 am    
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a small rackfan will solve the problem: http://www.rackfans.com/pages/ProCooL_AVP-180T/AVP-180T.html
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