Help!

Jason Walker · From: New South Wales, Australia

Well, I've gone and done it now. After a hurried exit from a late-running gig, I chose to put my still-assembled Carter D-10 pedal steel in the car and just head home. It was a two-hour trip home in very wet weather (no windows were open, and there are no leaks in the car that I'm aware of), yet it appears that there has been some 'ingress of moisture' into the C6 deck, as you can see by the images here.
The degree of the warping is pretty severe, as you'll all be cringing from it about now.
Naturally, I'm more than a little disturbed by this development. However, in the interests of truthfulness, it doesn't seem to be affecting the C6 neck. All changes are in tune - the warping however is lifting the changer end away above the apron to about 5mm (a shade under quarter of an inch).
I showed it to a luthier friend of mine who said that the problem could be fixed by applying heat (from a hot air gun or hair dryer) and then clamping it with G-clamps. When I offered to pay him to fix it, he looked a little unnerved by the prospect.
Should I do this myself? Is it within the reach of the somewhat inexperienced woodworker?
If so, where would I affix the clamps? I'm worried about attaching the clamps over the mica behind the changer as it would probably damage it, and the springs at the base of the changer mechanism don't appear to be that strong either.
I throw myself on the mercy of this forum! Your suggestions welcome.

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One Carter D-10 8+5, one Hilton VP, Peavey Bandit, so far, so good.

Douglas Schuch · From: Valencia, Philippines

It is really hard to tell from the pictures exactly what is going on. Good pictures would help. You also don't say what kind of guitar it is, but your siggie says you have a Carter, so I will assume it is that (do Carters have 4-up, 2 down changers???). They are, I believe, maple under the mica. Actually, I would be very surprised to see die-board warp like this - it is a very stable substance.

If it makes you feel better, I don't think just a ride down the road set up could cause this. It might have been the catalyst that caused the glue-joint to fail, but warpage like this was probably going to happen soon anyway. Having said that, though, if it was not loaded properly, and something got under it and pushed the top up, that would be different.

I will preface my thoughts with the comments that I am no pedal steel guitar expert. I do, however, have some experience as a cabinet maker and shipwright. I recently purchased an Old Sho-Bud, that upon arrival, had the front apron separated from the top at each end, and bending forward due to a sloppy fit in the endplate - the screws that go in from the front had sprung the apron forward. I was advised that it was very difficult to fix, but I did not find it so - but maybe I was lucky.

First, I can't imagine a fix that does not begin with removing all the parts to get down to bare cabinet. I also can't help but wonder if there is some mechanical problem that is causing, or contributing to this. When taking it all apart, look carefully for anything that seems out of kilter, or otherwise might be causing a problem.

Several things to consider - first, use your metal ruler as a straight edge and make sure that all the bow is in the top, not the apron. That is most likely the case, but good to make sure. Also, check across the top (front to back) to see if there is any cupping in the board. The pictures look like there might be. This would be a much worse problem, IMO.

Once all the hardware is off, check with your ruler again and see if it has sprung back at all, or gotten worse. If it has gotten worse, I think I would consider building a new cabinet. Try dry-clamping it back into place to see how easy it goes back. CLAMPS: you do not clamp right to the surface. Put a piece of soft wood between the clamp surfaces and the guitar. You need clamps big enough to accommodate the guitar AND a piece of wood on each side. One piece of wood, with a clamp at either end, should generate enough pressure to pull it all tight

If there is no cupping, and it easily goes back into place, then I think you an glue it up without too much trouble.

Glue - I am boat builder, so I used epoxy when I fixed my Sho-Bud. Find a source for West System epoxy and follow the directions (buy the smallest container you can). However, there are many here who are experienced luthiers and steel builders who might can suggest something else. One thing about epoxy - properly glued, that joint WILL NOT let go again. The wood will break next to the joint before the joint itself fails.

To glue it up, you first want to clean the joint area. This will not be easy to do properly, and is the biggest problem, and primary reason why the repair may not work. Slide some sandpaper into the joint and sand each surface lightly, then clean throughly with a solvent. I think acetone eats mica, so maybe naptha? But, I think I would go one step further and remove the mica - it will make it much easier to do the job without getting epoxy where you don't want it!

Put masking tape on any surfaces around the area to be glued that you do not want glue on.

Do another dry run with the clamps, making sure you know how you are putting them on. If the top and the apron do not close up to a smooth joint, you may need a clamp (think bar clamp) going front to back to pull the aprons into line. Use a block of wood that overlaps the joint so you can not over-tighten and push the apron inside the top, or break the front apron off. Line the clamp up so it is on the aprons, just beyond the joint. If the apron wants to stay inside the top, then you need to wedge it out. You might can use a clamp in reverse to do this - as I say, do a dry run to make sure you know what you need.

Follow the glue maker's instructions, and glue it up! It will not take much glue, but it will also not be easy to get it where you need it. A think scraper blade might help in pushing it into the joint. Use lots or rags and wipe up any excess that comes out when you squeeze the joint. If you use epoxy, squeeze it just a little tight, do not squeeze it way tight - you do not want to squeeze all the glue out.

If the top is cupped, or just does not want to go back into proper shape, I would think seriously about getting a new cabinet made for the guitar, or doing it yourself. The cost of materials for a cabinet are pretty minimal - expenses on building steels are, I think, in all the parts, machining, and labor, not the maple and mica. Also, if you are stripping all the parts, now is a good time to change the mica if you ever wanted a different color, or just want her new and shiny again.

Those are my thoughts of how I would tackle it. Perhaps there is someone here who has seen this before, and might have some better ideas. If you are not fairly comfortable with glues, clamps, and stuff, I would find someone who is. Good luck!

PS - edit - there may be screws that go up through the endplate into the deck, but they may be difficult to access due to the changer. If you have ANY mechanical fittings that attach the deck to the endplate, try backing those out. If something caused the deck to push away, those screws could be holding it there. Removing them might allow it to spring back to shape, and then you can replace the screws. I would plan of a proper fix soon, but that would relieve the stress, if it were the case.
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Bringing steel guitar to the bukid of Negros Oriental!

Jason Walker · From: New South Wales, Australia

Thank you Douglas for your considered reply. I thank you. I'll be looking at a possible new cabinet build - not sure if I can find anyone nearby me who can rebuild them. I'll have to make some enquiries... Cheers
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One Carter D-10 8+5, one Hilton VP, Peavey Bandit, so far, so good.

Bill Moore · From: Manchester, Michigan

The Carter body is just two pieces, the front apron and the top. The rear apron is aluminum. There is no glue involved in attaching the top to the rear apron or end plate. I don't think it would be hard to fix this. You would need to dissemble the guitar, and re-attach the end plate solidly to the top. If you need to, you could also add some aluminum angle reinforcement to the area where the rear apron contacts the wood.

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

Just to answer Douglas' question, later Carters had 4 up, 2 down changers, but they may have been an option.
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Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 54 years and still counting.

Jason Walker · From: New South Wales, Australia

I removed the strings from the C6 neck last night and noticed within the space of a couple of hours that some of the warping had subsided by about 2mm (sorry for the constant metric biz, I'm Imperial-illiterate). It's gone down by a further 1mm.
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One Carter D-10 8+5, one Hilton VP, Peavey Bandit, so far, so good.

Tony Boadle · From: Skibbereen, County Cork, Ireland

Just a general tip when it comes to glue...I 'discovered' Gorilla Glue a year or so back, not sure if it has the same name in the USA. The strongest stuff
I've ever come across. Follow the instructions (especially damping and clamping) and you'll be amazed.
I had a reso where the headstock had broken off with a 45 degree angled break just above the nut, Gorilla Glue did the trick. I confess that I sweated re-stringing to full tension! BTW, have a little cellulose thinners on hand (excuse the pun) for cleaning your fingers etc.

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