Author |
Topic: Stainless Strings or Nickel Strings? |
Sid Hudson
From: Virginia, USA
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 9:27 am
|
|
I get a lot of emails every week asking me the difference between Stainless strings verses Nickel Strings.
So many I thought I would post this thread and share some insight since I speak with so many players on a daily basis.
Stainless verses Nickel strings only applies to the wrapped strings. All Plain strings are made of high carbon steel. The same plain strings in either set.
The general consensus among most players is this:
Stainless strings are brighter sounding than nickel wrapped strings.
So, if you play a guitar that has darker tonal qualities you may want to use stainless wrapped strings to even the balance between the two.
If you play a brand of guitar that is notorious for bright tonal qualities, you may want to try nickel wrapped strings. Again to balance the tonal characteristics.
Now keep in mind that I have arrived at this conclusion from talking with the studio players in Nashville that do a lot of recording.
A subtle difference in tonal change (to the ear) results in a major change when you are hearing your instrument that has been recorded and is being played back through studio monitors.
So, can you hear the difference when playing live in a club? I doubt it.
If you can, I do not think it is enough to make or break you when it comes to achieving your desired tone.
Some players tell me they believe that the Stainless strings last longer than the Nickel wound strings.
I have personally not found that to be true.
Bottom Line:
Some people prefer Chevy and some like Fords. Just personal preference.
Try using each and see if you like one over the other.
Last edited by Sid Hudson on 12 Nov 2013 1:59 pm; edited 2 times in total |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Scott Duckworth
From: Etowah, TN Western Foothills of the Smokies
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 11:12 am
|
|
Thanks for the info, Sid! _________________ Amateur Radio Operator NA4IT (Extra)
http://www.qsl.net/na4it
I may, in fact, be nuts. However, I am screwed onto the right bolt... Jesus! |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Ken Byng
From: Southampton, England
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 12:12 pm
|
|
I have personally found that brand new, out of the packet, nickel strings have the edge. A week or more of regular playing and the stainless have retained their tone and intonation properties better and are superior to my aged ears.
Overall I have found that the cobalt/brass amalgam sound best out of the packet, and have exceedingly good longevity.
I haven't tried your strings yet Sid, but intend to pick up some of your cryogenic strings in Dallas next March and compare them with the ones I normally use. _________________ Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Ron Scott
From: Michigan
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 12:51 pm
|
|
I have Your Nickel and don't play out anymore but mine last a long time just with the playing I do around here and maintain great tone.Very good strings.My 2 cents worth. Ron ![Very Happy](images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) _________________ Franklin D10 Stereo - 8 and 6 - Black Box-Zum Encore 4 and 5 Nashville 400,Session 400, DD3 for delay ,also Benado Effects pedal.
Steeling with Franklin's..and Zum Encore |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Erv Niehaus
From: Litchfield, MN, USA
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 12:55 pm
|
|
If you play with a stainless steel bar, don't use stainless steel strings. |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Terry Winter
From: Saskatchewan, Canada
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 1:12 pm
|
|
Sid, I bought a set of strings at St. Louis and just put them on and found they had a lot more stretch than I'm used to at first but then man!, they do sound nice and stay put. Thanks!
Terry W. |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Bud Angelotti
From: Larryville, NJ, USA
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 1:49 pm
|
|
Why is that Erv? I use an emmons bar. Stainless or nickle?
Thanks - Bud _________________ Just 'cause I look stupid, don't mean I'm not. |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Erv Niehaus
From: Litchfield, MN, USA
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 1:58 pm
|
|
There is more drag on the strings with stainless strings and a stainless bar. A nickle plated bar is smoother on stainless string. My favorite is a nickle bar on nickle strings. That is the smoothest combination except for a zirconia bar, that can't be beat!
I really can't tell you if an Emmons bar is nickle or stainless. When I'm not using my zirc bar, I use a John Hughey model BJS bar, that is the Cadillac of nickle bars. ![Very Happy](images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Bud Angelotti
From: Larryville, NJ, USA
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 2:04 pm
|
|
Thanks Erv. I always assumed this emmons bar was stainless, maybe I'm wrong. Time to check it out. Inquiring minds want to know! ![Smile](images/smiles/icon_smile.gif) _________________ Just 'cause I look stupid, don't mean I'm not. |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
André Sommer
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 2:50 pm
|
|
I have used SIT nickel strings for ages and still do. The are fine but I will try a set of Sid's strings just to see the difference.
Actually, I wish there was some company who would make coated strings like Elixer Nanoweb (they are my only choice for electric/acoustic guitar) for pedal steel guitar ![Very Happy](images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Sid Hudson
From: Virginia, USA
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 3:02 pm
|
|
Andr� Sommer wrote: |
I have used SIT nickel strings for ages and still do. The are fine but I will try a set of Sid's strings just to see the difference.
Actually, I wish there was some company who would make coated strings like Elixer Nanoweb (they are my only choice for electric/acoustic guitar) for pedal steel guitar ![Very Happy](images/smiles/icon_biggrin.gif) |
I would love too but; they won't sell.
Imagine for a moment a Cryogentically treated string that is coated! I don't think I could stand it!
But, it won't sell. |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
André Sommer
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 3:18 pm
|
|
I would buy Nanoweb coated strings for pedal steel guitar in a heartbeat if they were available, Sid
Do Cryogentically treated strings and a coating somehow not work together? Is it the pull on the strings that makes this impossible? |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Hook Moore
From: South Charleston,West Virginia
|
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Sid Hudson
From: Virginia, USA
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 4:26 pm
|
|
Andr� Sommer wrote: |
I would buy Nanoweb coated strings for pedal steel guitar in a heartbeat if they were available, Sid
Do Cryogentically treated strings and a coating somehow not work together? Is it the pull on the strings that makes this impossible? |
The Cryogenically strings are soaked in Liquid Nitrogen for 17 hours and then slowly (over the next 15 hours) brought back to room temperature.
Now that I think about it, there is no real reason to poly coat Cryo strings because they last 2.5 to 3 times longer than Non Cryo strings. Ask most any bluegrasser.
A Poly coating that is applied to strings is done so to protect the music wire from the elements so it will last longer.
Problem is; the coating almost immediately starts flaking off due to the violent vibration of the string when played. The coating doesn’t last very long.
On a Cryogenically treated string, the intonation gives up before the freshness in sound does so it's time to change anyway.
But that is only after a lot of playing time on the strings. 2.5 to 3 times more. |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Jim Bates
From: Alvin, Texas, USA
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 7:38 pm
|
|
Stainless SIT are what I use because the tone on wound strings stays brighter longer. When I use nickel strings, my hands (and white long sleeve shirt cuffs get black marks on them from strings, but I live in southeast Texas where high humidity is common, so this may cause problems here that you don't have in the drier climates.
My experience with bar drag between plated my BJS plated bar and my Sho-Bud stainless is no difference. Yes, I know that there are many alloys of the stainless out there, and I have had some that did drag that I could feel. but NOT my Sho-Bud bar. It is very smooth and I have always polished it with Simichrome anytime I would hear a scratch from it.
Thanx,
Jim |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
André Sommer
|
Posted 12 Nov 2013 7:43 pm
|
|
Thanks for the reply, Sid.
I am really interested in trying these Cryogenically treated strings. Sounds exactly what I am looking for!
BTW, I never had a problem with this coating flaking off with Elixer strings on my electric and acoustic guitars and believe me, I really dig in.
I would like to test a set of your strings to see what these Cryo treated strings are all about. Can I order them from a shop in the Netherlands? |
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |
Sid Hudson
From: Virginia, USA
|
|
|
![](templates/respond/images/spacer.gif) |