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Post new topic tunable split on string 6?
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Author Topic:  tunable split on string 6?
Alex Cattaneo


From:
Quebec, Canada
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 12:55 pm    
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Quick question, I want to install an extra rod on my steel to have a tunable split on string 6. I already have a full lower on string 6 on my RKL. Where will I attach the extra rod? The B pedal or the RKL? I need to get the measurement for the extra pull rod but I don't even know where this thing will go!
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 1:12 pm    
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The extra rod goes to the raise finger 6th string from the RKL. Here's the logic:
The tighter the string, the more distance the finger has to travel to achieve the same pitch movement.
Therefore, if you lower the A note 200 cents, that pull is longer than lowering the G# 200 cents.
So you tune the G note with the rod in the lowering finger, and now the F# comes up flat. So you raise it back up with raise rod on the lever.
It has no effect on the B pedal, because the pedal pulls it clear of that small raise.
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Georg Sørtun


From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 1:15 pm    
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Extra rod goes on RKL, to raise 6th to F# when it is lowered fully on its own. Attach this extra rod as close to the soundbord as possible at both changer and bellcrank.
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Larry Bressington

 

From:
Nebraska
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 3:41 pm    
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Can the split be used without the pedals pressed? How will the split be used?
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 3:45 pm    
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I don't think I follow you, Larry. If you hit the loop with out the pedal, you get an F# note. With the pedal and the lever, you get a G. The added rod allows for all 4 notes to tune.
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More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Larry Bressington

 

From:
Nebraska
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 3:51 pm    
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Evening Lane... Sorry Alex to crash the thread. Ah ok got you lane. So both rods go the same lever?
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 4:03 pm    
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Yes, but different halves of the changer.
The 6th string bellcrank will have to rods going from it. One goes to the raise and one goes to the lower.
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More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Larry Bressington

 

From:
Nebraska
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 4:19 pm    
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Thank you Lane... I must give it a go myself tonight.
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Gerald Shaw

 

From:
Florida, USA
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 4:59 pm    
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Alex, I recently added a raise from F# to G on string 1 to the same lever that I use to drop string 6 (G# to F#). Didn't plan it this way, but now I've got a nice feel stop at G, (string 6) half way down.

I also have the B pedal plus lever to get the G, but I find the feel stop- with just the lever -works better for me. For fast phrases it's easier just to rock the lever half way then it is to depress the B pedal fully engage the lever. I was kind of lucky as the feel stop note is right about in tune and the notch is pretty easy to stop at.
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Alex Cattaneo


From:
Quebec, Canada
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 5:55 pm    
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Thanks Lane! Crash away Larry, I got my answer! And Gerald, interesting... but I already have 1st string and 2nd string raise on that lever so... the best scenario would be a feel stop with both G's, on the 1st and 6th strings. That would be lovely! But I doubt it will work out that way.
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Alex Cattaneo


From:
Quebec, Canada
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 5:59 pm    
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While we're on the subject, I know it's now common practice to use a split tuning screw... but someone mentioned that with the split tuning screw, it makes a difference if you engage the lever or the pedal first. When I had the tunable split on the Sho-Bud, it as always in tune, no matter what was engaged in what order. I'm sure it's more cumbersome to have an extra rod and nylon tuner, but on the other hand, you don't need two different tools to tune. I'm curious to find out who prefers what.
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Georg Sørtun


From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 6:55 pm    
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Alex Cattaneo wrote:
I'm curious to find out who prefers what.
For the quite standard 6th string lower split I have no preference - lower-stop screw and split-rod are equally precise and easy to tune.

On two of my PSGs I have more than one split on same strings, and also split raises. Have to use split-rods on those.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 26 Sep 2013 7:59 pm    
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Both systems will give precision. The only difference lies in how they achieve it.
On my Zum, I have two different tunable Ds, one is the common half stop, and I also split the half step raise and whole tone lower, but that's a whole 'nother discussion.
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More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Ron Pruter

 

From:
Arizona, USA
Post  Posted 28 Sep 2013 9:29 pm    
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I discovered a short coming with split screws in the changer. Adjusted it perfectly for A pedal and LKV for half step change. I was in heaven. But now I was unable to drop my 5th string a whole step for the franklin change because the screw in the changer rules with an iron fist. Ron
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Georg Sørtun


From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
Post  Posted 29 Sep 2013 2:32 am    
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Ron Pruter wrote:
[...] But now I was unable to drop my 5th string a whole step for the franklin change because the screw in the changer rules with an iron fist.

That's what I meant by having...
Georg Sørtun wrote:
[...] more than one split on same strings, and also split raises. Have to use split-rods on those.

Split-screws must be adjusted for the lowest change, since there's no way to lower past them. Well-arranged plit-rods don't introduce such (potential) problems. And you can of course add split-rods on a PSGs that is already set up with split-screws.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 29 Sep 2013 4:08 am    
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Right. If you have a drop to A, then you'll need a third raise rod (on the LKV) to have a tunable C split.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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