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Topic: Fix a crooked nut?? |
Jim Williams
From:
Meridian, Mississippi, USA - Home of Peavey!
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Posted 19 Sep 2013 8:24 am |
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How's the best way to fix a crooked nut. (I know, vote him out of office..) but seriously, on the old Mark I steel I'm restoring the nut is just slightly out of square with the body, so that when you butt the metal fretboard squarely against it, it does not line up with the strings on the other end. The hole that the mounting screw comes through on either end of the nut is very snug with the diameter of the screw. My thought is to drill the holes out very slightly to allow me to square the nut up. Before I break out the drill though I wanted an opinion from some more experienced folks if this is the best cure. I may also have to do the same thing on the holes holding the tuners on that side to close the slight gap that will be created between the tuner mounting bar and the back of the nut then I suppose. I am talking about a very small amount here, probably 1/16 inch or less, so I'm not going to drill a 1/4 in hole or anything.
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GFI SM10 3/4, 1937 Gibson EH-150, 2 - Rondo SX Lap Steels and a Guyatone 6 String C6. Peavey 400 and a Roland 40 Amps. Behringer Reverb Pedal. |
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Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 19 Sep 2013 10:41 am
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You refer to a hole the mounting screw goes through with a nut on the other side -- I assume the hole is through the top deck of the guitar? Dowel the hole or holes that are bad and drill again.
Why is the mounting done with a bolt and nut and not a wood screw?
What is the neck made of? Is there a neck? Can you screw the nut to the end of the neck?
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Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars. |
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Jim Williams
From:
Meridian, Mississippi, USA - Home of Peavey!
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Posted 19 Sep 2013 11:50 am
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No, actually I was referring to the the roller assembly that the strings go over before they go into the tuners as the nut...probably not the correct term for a steel.
There are no nuts, each end of the assembly has a threaded hole, and the screw passes through the underside of the guitar and screws into the threaded hole. I figure if I expand the proper hole a little larger, just enough to let the part line up straight with the fretboard, I can put a washer underneath the bolt and screw it down tight. I don't think it will move, because the strings will be exerting force in the direction of the bridge end of the guitar. If necessary I can put a dowel in it and re-drill.
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GFI SM10 3/4, 1937 Gibson EH-150, 2 - Rondo SX Lap Steels and a Guyatone 6 String C6. Peavey 400 and a Roland 40 Amps. Behringer Reverb Pedal. |
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Chris Lucker
From:
Los Angeles, California USA
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Posted 19 Sep 2013 12:14 pm
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I would dowel and redrill. The nut is an important component to have fixed solidly to the guitar for tone/resonance reasons.
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Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 19 Sep 2013 12:22 pm
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Since you don't have an actual neck per se, getting it perfectly square with the changer is gonna be tricky, I bet, especially with the changer pulling on those wood screws.
I think Chris mighta been improperly visualising the setup, my Bud and Zum all use machine screws through the body and into the casting (the MSAs screwed into the neck, which you don't have).
I do like his dowel-and-redrill approach. That machine screw is gonna bear some considerable stresses, not sure a wallowed-out hole is wise.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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