knee lever part for a Fender 1000

Jean-Sebastien Gauthier · From: Quebec, Canada

Hi, I want to install a knee lever on my Fender 1000, if someone can help me finding part that would fit (I can do the cable job myself) I would really appreciated a lot.

Thanks

JS

Chris Lucker · From: Los Angeles, California USA

I posted in your Wanted ad with a long suggestion. I suggested using a three piece Emmons-style knee. That incorrect knee that John Davis has shown in his "Tall Tree and Rope" post would work.
Maybe he would sell it to you as he is likely replacing it anyway. And you are part of his Empire.
_________________
Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars.

Jean-Sebastien Gauthier · From: Quebec, Canada

Thanks Chris!

Jay Fagerlie · From: Lotus, California, USA

Michael Yahl is putting together a package for us Fender players that want knee levers.
He's making a move right now, he'll post when he's got them ready.

http://www.psgparts.com/Fender_c16.htm

Jean-Sebastien Gauthier · From: Quebec, Canada

You're right Jay, maybe I should wait for Michael sell is kit. BTW you seems to have a nice Fender!

Jay Fagerlie · From: Lotus, California, USA

Thanks, that's the first pedal steel I owned.
Bought it around 2002-2003 or so....
I believe it's a 1963 or close to it....tan cases, mutes, strat type pickups with the serrated surrounds.

I likes it!

Very Happy

(I LOVE it if I could get some knee levers for it) Laughing

Buzinga!

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

If you look around on the Fender Steel Forum there are quite a few clear pictures of self-made knee levers, a couple of systems to acheive double-raises or lowers (the best usually using Shobud barrel tuners) and quite a few other mods:

http://z8.invisionfree.com/Fender_Steel_Forum/index.php

Credit goes to Jay, really - he started the first Fender steel forum but it was hopelessly crashed by hackers.

I haven't kept it as well maintained as I probably should, but it's really there for an information resource more than anything else. There's no real effective internal search function on those free websites, so it takes a bit of poking around - but trust me, it's worth it.

Making knee levers for a Fender is really not very difficult. The simplest ones seem to actualy work the best, and mine, for example, are basically made of stuff purchased from a corner hardware store!

It helps to have:

1. Access to a machine shop that can cut some aluminum channel stock and 1/4" steel rod for you, plus you need to have or can use a drill press.

2. You need to be able to competently/safely solder using ONLY lead-fre solder (lead-based solder will cause cable assemblies to come apart VERY quickly) and a MINIMUM 100 watt soldering iron (or gun - this is the ONLY time a soldering *gun* should be allowed near a guitar of any kind) or a propane torch (MUCH better).

3. Parts - brackets can be made from 1/8" aluminum "L stock, with a couple of screw holes to attach them to the body and a 1/4" hole for the rod; 1/4" steel (best) or aluminum (workable) stock is cut to length for the crossrod(s); levers themselves can be made in many diferet ways, but the simplest is 1" wide aluminum channel cut at an angle - with holes drilled in the sides for the rod and a pin in the rod to stop its travel it'll pull and fold down; the "bellcrank" can be made from anything you can attach to the rod; a "stop" to keep the whole assembly held in place can be concocted from simple $.75 "L" brackets, a bolt and a couple of nuts; for cable 1/16" wire rope from Home Depot is what most of us have used for years as replacement cable; use an off-the-shelf small turnbuckle to adjust tension; the loop that hooks to the changer is made out of haevy safety wire, 1/8" brass tubing and CAREFUL soldering (the loop, if soldered in place first, has a nasty habit of popping out of the tubing at high velocity when soldering the cable end!).

Then the only "trick" is if you need to created a double raise or lower. I won't describe the whole thing here, but a barrel stop attached between lever and changer on whatever cable needs the shortest "pull" (knee lever or pedal that actuates the same string) and a solid stop screwed into the body gives you an easily-adjustable 2nd, shorter change.

That description is FAR more comp;licated than the actual process!! I've had 12 homemade levers - all have worked great. No need for precision bearings or tricked-out parts.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional

Jean-Sebastien Gauthier · From: Quebec, Canada

Thanks Jim! I should maybe go this way, cheaper and self made is cool, its like working on a hot road car! If you dont mind I would like to see pictures of you knee lever, it would help me a lot.

Im also in the process of ordering 2 jaguar pickup from Lollar that I will wire like a Stringmaster! I think it will sound very nice.

Dave Zirbel · From: Sebastopol, CA USA

Back in the day, Red Rhodes and a few others used gate hinges as knee levers. There used to be pictures of the underbelly of Red's guitar on the Fender Steel forum but I can't find them. Gary Brandin uses a gate hinge knee lever on his 400. He's on the forum here occasionally.

Ben Franz, another Forum member and Fender player has stringmaster pickups on his 400. I'm thinking of trying those someday as well...

Dave Very Happy

_________________
Dave Zirbel-
Sierra S-10 (Built by Ross Shafer),ZB, Fender 400 guitars, various tube and SS amps

Jean-Sebastien Gauthier · From: Quebec, Canada

Hi Dave, yes I've seen the Red Rhodes door hinges lever, I really like the Red Rhodes playing but I would like to have something just a little better made than door hinges!

My plan is to 2 jaguar style pickup in the style of a stringmaster so it will be a different different, maybe fatter sounding!

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