Brass ferules for the GFI

Jimmy Gibson · From: Cornwall, England

I may be in need of a few of the small brass pull pin ferules that GFI use to hold the pull rods to the bell cranks.

Some of The originals have been ruined by a previous owner using a bad fitting Alen Sad

key and has resulted in some of the grub screws have been rounded Shocked

and that means removing some of the cross shafts complete with pull rods Rolling Eyes

and try to maybe drill out the old screws with out damaging the bell cranks may be a problem with the pull rods attached. Any other Idea

would be welcome.

Also could someone tell me if the size the pull rods

I don`t know how old this steel is but I think it is one of the earlier models,built like a tank, no other problems other than these brass ferrules

is 3/16/2.5mm or 1.8th/3mm.

Thanks Jimmy..

Thomas Ludwig · From: Augsburg, Germany

Jimmy,
GFI can be contacted via e-mail at info@gfimusicalproducts.com.

Thomas

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

I believe that the size of the rods is 3/32". I forget the size of the allen set screw however it is more frequently a bad fitting wrench rather than a stripped screw and before I'd go thru what you are contemplating I would get a new properly sized allen wrench or grind a titch off the one that you're trying if you're sure it's the right size, maybe heat up the ferrule w a soldering gun,etc- usually a bit of monkeying around will get it out- then replace the screw when you reassemble the guitar. GFI has fantastic service and will bend over backwards to help you.

Jimmy Gibson · From: Cornwall, England

Hi Jim, thanks for your suggestions but,if you read my topic from the top again you will see I am not on about a stripped screw threads I am on about the head of the grub screw that the previous owner has ruined a few by using the wrong size wrench and has caused the hex socket in the screw heads to have no hex left there are 11 up till now, and they are a being a pain in the butt to try and undo Crying or Very sad

.

I meant to add that at the moment I have managed to get the steel working but only as an extended E9th by using some of the bell cranks I have been able to undo the brass ferrules from,but I would like to get it back to a full universal ASAP.

What I needed to do was change the copedent around because I play the Day way pedal set up but when I started to change it from an Emmons set up I came across this problem Crying or Very sad

.

What it means and I hope I don`t have to go to this extreme but it may be the only way, so I may have to take the effected cross shafts off the guitar complete with pull rods and bell cranks take them to a engineering shop and hopefully try and get them drilled out,and then replace the grub screws. Or I will just have to buy new parts.

Jimmy.

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

I knew that the heads were the issue as I've a bit of experience w them and fight that kind of stuff pretty much on a daily basis. It has been an extremely rare occasion that I have to resort to removing the cross shaft- that being said there are times that my language might get me thrown outta church when I'm involved in the pursuit Smile

.

Jim Priebe · From: Queensland, Australia - R.I.P.

I don't know why hex allen screws are still used in this century.
Here's a fix that might work (it has for me - zillions of times when I had my motorcycle business).
Get an allen key (that you don't treasure) that fits the mangled screw and after thoroughly cleaning any lube away with a solvent or petrol, lightly coat it with Loctite 601 (the one that really sets hard - it may have a different code number now) and insert it into the screw and let that set (probably for a day). NO 601 must get on to the thread !!!!! just between the allen screw orifice and the key. Pray three times and then try it.
If that doesn't work it means removing things and maybe a trip to a machine shop with an "eroder" - it burns the screw out - may be a problem in a brass ferule - not sure.
_________________
Priebs GFI ('09)Short-Uni10. GFI ('96)Short-Uni SD11. ('86)JEM U12
www.steelguitardownunder.com

Peter den Hartogh · From: Cape Town, South Africa

I took a small screwdriver and shaped the end like a wedge with sharp edges with fine sandpaper till it fits the hole. I wedged it into the hole and turned the screwdriver. Worked for me a couple of times.

Jimmy Gibson · From: Cornwall, England

Hi Peter,Thanks for your idea buti have already tried that but you can¬t use a screw driver because of lack of room in between some of the bell cranks.

I have managed to undo a few more by using a Torx key slightly bigger than the head of the alen screw head, what I did was force the Torx key into the head of the alen screw head using some plumbers pipe grips and it worked on some of the ones I could get at.

Jimmy.

Bruce Derr · From: Lee, New Hampshire, USA

I think GFI used 1/8" rod in the past, then switched to 3/32. I bought some older GFI rods and pullers on eBay a while back and was surprised when the rods turned out to be bigger than the ones in my steel. The older brass cylinders have correspondingly larger holes.

Bobby D. Jones · From: West Virginia, USA

In my time I have fought many Allen screw problems. from TD-18 Dozer to Westinghouse Lamp equipment. The secret I found is cut the wrench off till you have a good square end. Then with a file or Dremel tool cut a small V on the right edge of the 6 sides of the wrench till you have a small sharp sort of hook on each flat that will cut into the damaged socket and lock the wrench in the screw till it will come loose. I figured this trick out on the TD-18 as it had alumnium Allen head screws on the track rollers for lubing. A hot soder gun tip placed on the screw will also help it loosen for easier removel. Good Luck in getting your GFI set up, Happy Steelin.

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

Two possibilities, if the modified allen wrench idea doesn't work:

1] "easy-out" or "spiral" screw extractors.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/extractor1.php

2] Also if the allen screw head sticks out past the bellcrank surface, you can cut a slot in it w/ a Dremel tool or file. The back it out w/ a stubby slot-head screwdriver.

Jimmy Gibson · From: Cornwall, England

Thanks Bobby tried your idea but used a screw driver
the problem is lack of space to be able to get a good grip in the head and get good leverage..

Tony as I have told Bobby there not enough room under the guitar to get at the Allen screws with a Dermal or a hack saw.

So here is what I have done,all the pull rods that were poking through the bell cranks I have cut off flush with the bell cranks with the offending screws so I can undo the bell crank pinch screw and pull the bell crank away from the cross shaft now with a bit of heat and the slightly bigger Torx wrench I have managed to undo most of the bad Allen screws.i will replace them with Torx headed screws.

Thanks chaps for trying to help.

God Bless. Jimmy.

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