| Author |
Topic: Is it just my imagination? |
Ray Montee
From:
Portland, Oregon (deceased)
|
Posted 14 Apr 2013 4:27 pm |
|
Seldom a day goes by that I don't discover another new steel guitar builder with his newest invention.
From my observations, its seems most of them aim at making the most unique shaped and brilliantly painted/appearing guitar while inserting just about any old pickup that's handy or least expensive.
I saw one yesterday, where the tone control and such is actually buried in a hollowed out space in the guitar body making use of those controls difficult at best.
Am I mistaken?
If YOU........wanted a truly customized steel guitar, what would be your first "WANT" requirement and in order, what the second, third and other wants be? |
|
|
 |
Georg Sørtun
From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
|
Posted 14 Apr 2013 4:59 pm Re: Is it just my imagination?
|
|
| Ray Montee wrote: |
| If YOU........wanted a truly customized steel guitar, what would be your first "WANT" requirement and in order, what the second, third and other wants be? |
1: sonic range (temperamental).
2: playability (not too heavy and not too light actions).
3: ease of modifying copedent.
4: reasonably low weight.
5: black ... with no chrome  |
|
|
|
Roger Shackelton
From:
MINNESOTA (deceased)
|
Posted 14 Apr 2013 11:37 pm
|
|
HEY GEORG,
I Guess A Blanton PSG Would Never Be A Guitar For You.
A S-10 Weighs about 75 Pounds In The Case.
It Has A Chromed Steel Wrap Around Frame Like The Old Fender PSGs
Pedal Tuning Is Done Underneath The Guitar
The pedal Action Is Very Light,
Roger
PS: Here is A Nice Sounding D-10 That would Top 100
pounds in the case. ???
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jNbER_CABIg |
|
|
|
Georg Sørtun
From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
|
Posted 15 Apr 2013 3:14 am
|
|
You got that one right Roger   |
|
|
|
Ken Byng
From:
Southampton, England
|
Posted 15 Apr 2013 4:07 am
|
|
1. Replaceable changer caps - as per the old ZBs.
2. Triple raise triple lower changer.
3. Quick attach and release pedal bar
4. Quick change and interchangeable pickups.
5. Split cases.
_________________
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
|
|
|
Greg Cutshaw
From:
Corry, PA, USA
|
Posted 15 Apr 2013 5:32 am
|
|
Agree on replaceable changer caps. Why do I have to sand out grooves on a $5500 instrument? All the steels I've played end up getting grooves in the changer for whatever reason (normal wear and tear and sometimes abuse in the case). Maintaining a pristine surface on top of the changer fingers is crucial to getting a clear tone. I'd rather have replaceable caps than rely on my sanding/polishing skills maintaining the correct surface profile.
Greg |
|
|
|
Ken Byng
From:
Southampton, England
|
Posted 15 Apr 2013 7:42 am
|
|
With close tolerance machining available these days, replaceable caps would make not a scrap of difference to the tone. I replaced the caps on my E9 neck on a ZB that I owned back in the early '70s. A brilliant design idea, and one that should be obligatory on all makes of pedal steel.
I also like the MSA pedal bar clip on their modern guitars. A stroke of genius.
_________________
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 15 Apr 2013 9:04 am
|
|
| I wonder if Bronze changer fingers would wear less than Aluminum. And how would they sound? Bronze is considered a "musical" metal. At least in bells. |
|
|
|
Ransom Beers
|
Posted 15 Apr 2013 9:10 am
|
|
| I wonder if anyone has ever thought of making the changers & fingers from Titanium,light weight & wear is almost nil.If I were to build one that's what I would use, albeit they could be somewhat expensive.When I was in the machining business I built a lot of things from it,mostly aircraft,missiles & space related stuff. |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 15 Apr 2013 9:24 am
|
|
Quick search:
"the order would be aluminum, brass, bronze, T6 aluminum, mild steel, stainless steel, and titanium. If the metals are in their hardest conditions, from heat treating or cold work, the order would be aluminum, brass, T6 aluminum, bronze, titanium, mild steel, and stainless steel (cutlery grades)."
Hmmmmm,,, Hardened Bronze is pretty darn hard! |
|
|
|
Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
|
Posted 15 Apr 2013 2:24 pm
|
|
I don't feel the type of metal is terribly important. We're not making bells or gongs here, or something that has the opportunity to exhibit a lot of ringing resonance. As long as the metal is is hard enough not to deform, just about anything seems "okay". (Steel, aluminum, brass, bronze, and stainless steel are all among those materials that have already been used, with no really clear winner exhibited (other than aluminum, most probably for it's lightness and workability).
My primary consideration is an instrument that plays and stays in tune. Without that, any other advantage is pretty useless. |
|
|
|
