Sho-Bud Pedal Axle?

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

I'll take it apart and figure it out myself, no doubt, but---

I have 3 pedals on my 6160 S-12 Pro 1 and I'm adding at least one pedal so I need a longer axle. What is the axle/rod that runs through the pedal bores? Stock steel rod?
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Jerry Jones · From: Franklin, Tenn.

Drill rod

Michael Barone · From: Downingtown, Pennsylvania

Jon, as I remember it was a stock 1/2" diameter steel rod when I converted my 6148 Pro-1, wide pedals, from 3 to 5 years ago. Hopefully someone will either confirm this or correct me if needed. Good Luck.

Mike

Larry Allen · From: Kapaa, Kauai,Hawaii

It's 1/2 " stock. Home Depot has steel and aluminum rods. Larry
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Excel steels & Peavey amps,Old Chevys & Motorcycles & Women on the Trashy Side

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Thanks, guys. Yes--wide pedals here. 1/2" rod it'll be.

Peter den Hartogh · From: Cape Town, South Africa

The wide pedals are cast with "tubes" which slide over the axle rod.
This rod is supported by "brackets" which attach to the pedal bar.
Some "tubes" on your pedals have been shortened to make space for the "bracket",
Just make sure that you lay out the pedals first next to the pedal bar to see where the "brackets" go
and only then establish the total length of the rod.

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Thanks, Peter. Any day someone throws up a red flag and says 'watch out for....' is a good day. I will consider EVERYTHING before moving forward. I'm already frustrated by the fact that I'm going to have to move a lever more than I'd like to in order to squeeze another pedal in. Pondering my options. Things are tight under there. This is a 'want' pedal, not a 'need' pedal.

mike nolan · From: Forest Hills, NY USA

Which pedal rack do you have... there are a couple of flavors. Some have intermediate brackets, some don't. I have 4 pedals on my S-10 'Bud, and I did have some negotiating to do with my LKR location. The LKL and LKV can go about anywhere with drag link rods to cross shafts located more to the center of the guitar.

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Hey Mike.

mike nolan · From: Forest Hills, NY USA

Yeah.... so you just have to move the existing end bracket and drill the bar for the machine screw.

Tony Williamson · From: North Carolina, USA

i'd use stainless. it polishes up nice and smooth. it costs a little more, any machine shop will have it. 1/2 inch diameter. and i beveled the ends too. looks nicer and they can stick out just a little bit. and i'd buy a full four or five foot piece. that way if you add another pedal , there ya are.
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stelling banjos . shobud ldg and superpro/ martin hd28v weber mandolin, session 400, danelectro delay, korg d3200, bose L1 x2

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Not sure I'm following you, Tony. Cosmetically, it won't be visible and in terms of polished smooth functioning, the tolerances of the pedals and the amount of play would seem to make that extra amount of refinement somewhat overkill, no?

Tony Williamson · From: North Carolina, USA

well, i did mine. i had two pieces of steel that i tried to polish up. the pedals still had a bit of resistance. i never could polish them out to where they were smooth. so i got a piece of stainless, polished it to a mirror smooth, the pedals on it felt as slick as glass. now i dont know if it would have mattered in the scheme of things, but the rest of the steel was gorgeous. everything was polished and clean, and i wanted there to be zero resistance on the pedal bar. plus it just looked clean. i believe there is a difference.
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stelling banjos . shobud ldg and superpro/ martin hd28v weber mandolin, session 400, danelectro delay, korg d3200, bose L1 x2

Larry Allen · From: Kapaa, Kauai,Hawaii

Jon, I've rebuilt and added pedals to a dozen Sho-Buds..The aluminum 1/2' rod from Home Depot is light and strong....about $4 for a 3' stick...I recently added a pedal to a Sho-Bud I had restored in 1998 and there was no wear on the rod. Larry Smile

_________________
Excel steels & Peavey amps,Old Chevys & Motorcycles & Women on the Trashy Side

Paul Redmond · From: Illinois, USA

Aluminum riding against aluminum will eventually gall with or without lubricant. It just does. Stick with O-1 or S-7 drill rod or stainless which commercially, is usually type 304. Due to the lack of heat-treatment of the steel, this too will eventually gall, but not to the degree that aluminum would. There MUST be a pronounced dissimilarity in Rockwell hardnesses AND metallurgical composition to prevent galling on any application.
PRR

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

Again, thank you, all, for the input.

Tony---I guess I thought you were just throwing that out there. But your follow up, detailing your experience, makes the world of a difference. In fact, my pedal movement is anything but smooth. I just figured it went with the territory (ShoBudville). I'm kind of perked up with the idea that I can get the action a bit slicker. It's the one thing that would make this nice guitar nicer.

Tony Williamson · From: North Carolina, USA

i took a bronze brush for cleaning cruddy shotgun bores, ran it thru the pedal holes a time or two. then, i took the stainless rod and polished the crap out of it. the pedals just twirled around like a whirley bird on it. (ive also tried stainless for the bar going thru the cams where the strings hook). experiment. i put a little silicon on the pedal bar. so, i dont know, all these other members are far nore experienced than me.but it was slick as owl poop. if the pedals are tight, just polish a little longer, they'll go on. let us know how it goes...
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stelling banjos . shobud ldg and superpro/ martin hd28v weber mandolin, session 400, danelectro delay, korg d3200, bose L1 x2

Jon Light · From: Saugerties, NY

I'm all about owl poop.

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