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Topic: Refinishing mica? |
Per Berner
From:
Skövde, Sweden
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Posted 18 Jan 2013 5:41 am |
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I just bought a 3+5 S10 Emmons p/p in near perfect condition (thanks, Bob Hoffnar!), mechanically as well as looks- and soundwise.
But.
It's covered in knobbly, matte rosewood mica, which is neither black nor very convincing as fake wood.
I dare not take this great guitar apart to swap for black mica, and the structured surface would probably make covering it in black tape (the kind used by sign makers to cover cars etc.) impossible. So my question to my fellow forumites is:
Do you think it would be possible (with only light disassembly like loosening the neck, removing the head etc) to sand the mica flat enough to get a glossy tape – or possibly paint – finish? Or is the mica too hard-wearing?
Has anyone tried this? |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 18 Jan 2013 7:21 am
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I think I'd remove necks and keyhead, leaving the changer (if that's possible, my push-pull was burgled twenty mumble years ago), and go for vinyl wrap.
I was kinda bothered by the premise of the question. Here's how it left my CPF (Cynical Paraphrase Filter):
"I've got this push-pull that I want to refinish, but I'm afraid to do it right. How can I find the easy way out that doesn't suck?"
Do I have that about right?
If you're afraid to do it right yourself, I'd save up the money and send it to Mike Cass. And in the meantime, I wouldn't add something he'll just have to undo.
PS: Don't mind my CPF, it's a smartass
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Per Berner
From:
Skövde, Sweden
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Posted 18 Jan 2013 9:04 am
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Of course having it professionally re-covered in glossy black mica would be the best solution, but I'm not prepared to spend another grand or two (risking having to pay customs duties and sales tax on the full value of the guitar once more) to make it black, so I need to find a home-cooked way.
And yes, of course vinyl wrap of some sorts would be my first choice. If it had been glossy mica, putting on a vinyl wrap without turning a single screw would be quick and easy, just a few hours with a fresh scalpel blade. But since the mica surface isn't anywhere near flat I'm sure it wouldn't look good to just stick it on without flattening the mica first. Hence the question. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 18 Jan 2013 9:11 am
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Since I'd feared the chemicals that turn paper into Formica might be harmful if sanded, I googled sanding Formica. Looks like you'll want a dust mask and goggles, but you can do it. Just don't sand the metal.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Andrew Buhler
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 18 Jan 2013 11:55 am
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| I have an early 70s D-10 fatback with that same mica. While it's not the prettiest guitar on the block, I have to say that the matte mica is very resiliant and doesn't scratch easily. My guitar looks almost as new even though it's 40 years old. I guess it's a trade off. |
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Lincoln Goertzen
From:
Taylor, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted 18 Jan 2013 1:04 pm
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Something doesn't make sense to me. Why do you have to sand the Formica off?
Last time I checked, the mica chips (samples) that I got just before I ordered my steel were identical to countertop laminate. I am hoping a steel guitar maker can chime in here (no pun intended) and verify how he applies the laminate, but I've only used contact cement, which releases with heat.
It is my theory, then, that one ought to be able to strip the mica off a PSG with a clothes iron and a pallet knife. You could then order in some exotic mica of whatever type you like, and put it on with more contact cement.
Any builders out there with some advice? |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 18 Jan 2013 2:29 pm
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Reread his post, Linc. He doesn't wanna remove the mica, just smooth it
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Lincoln Goertzen
From:
Taylor, British Columbia, Canada
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Posted 18 Jan 2013 3:24 pm
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Ah, yes. Somehow I caught that while reading it the first time, then forgot it.
In that case, to answer the OP's question, the best method I've found for leveling mice is a file. You can grind off the sharp edges (corners) of the file to make it a little safer. Just use the file like a pull-shave or spokeshave, and it will level the mica. If you'd rather sand, (which sounds kind of dangerous, if you're not taking it apart) definitely wear a respirator, as Lane suggests.
I wish you all the best, and I'd love to see before and after pictures when you get it looking like you want it. |
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Per Berner
From:
Skövde, Sweden
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 4:47 am
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Well, I haven't decided to go ahead yet. Always been a bit of a coward... I guess I could just dim the lights  |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 8:07 am
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If you're halfway decent with a paintbrush, you could give it a rubber coat of Plasti-Dip. Which would peel away when you want it gone.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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David Higginbotham
From:
Lake Charles, Louisiana, USA
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 8:20 am
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| Quote: |
| I guess I could just dim the lights Wink |
May be the better option! If you're going to go thru that much trouble to sand the mica I would advise going all the way to stripping the guitar and replacing it. The issue with sanding the mica is you will likely not be happy with the finish. It will be very difficult to get an even thickness throughout the finish and it will be noticeable when viewing from different angles. If everything else with the steel is acceptable then the color won't make it sound or play any better.
Dave |
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David Mason
From:
Cambridge, MD, USA
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 9:54 am
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I am confused.
| Quote: |
in near perfect condition (thanks, Bob Hoffnar!), mechanically as well as looks- and soundwise.
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Perhaps it wants you to play it for a finite time period - till July 17th* - without giving a single thought, dissatisfied or not, to it's appearance. You have some important things to attend to here.
*(OK, pick a better one?) |
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Tommy Shown
From:
Denham Springs, La.
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 10:35 am
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Contact Mike Cass, in Nashville. He could do it, if you are wanting to the changing of the finish.
Tommy Shown |
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Gerald Shaw
From:
Florida, USA
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 11:30 am
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| Maybe, consider living it with it the way it is for a bit and see if you change your mind. A lot of times I find I tune out the visual things if I look at and play the thing every day. I had a light too close to the guitar when working underneath and I guess it caused a sectiuon of the paint to bubble up and pop. Leaving a ugly mark. It bugged me for awhile and I was planning to fix it, but I let it go. Now I don't notice it and it never crosses my mind........ |
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Herb Steiner
From:
Spicewood TX 78669
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 1:40 pm
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I agree with the previous poster. Anything you do to the mica will make it uglier and hurt its resale value. Grow to like it, or realize you bought the wrong guitar. Or, have at it... it's now your guitar. Just MHO.
_________________
My rig: Infinity and Telonics.
Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg? |
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Steve Hinson
From:
Hendersonville Tn USA
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 2:34 pm
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| Leave it like it is and enjoy the sound of it...please. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 3:11 pm
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Tommy, I'd suggested Mike Cass. but considering the OP lives in Sweden, I think shipping becomes prohibitive.
Per, I bet cabinet makers or furniture repair places could be of assistance
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 4:14 pm
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| Well,,,, I have no familiarity with Emmons' Guitars. Everyone up here played Klines. But I did work at Performance Guitars. And, the formica was under the keyheads, necks, changers and endplates. Only way to change it would be to completely disassemble the guitar. I'd advise rubbing it out with Meguiare's Pro Swirl Remover 2.0, waxing it with California Custom's M-Ron Glass wax, and just living with it. |
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Bud Angelotti
From:
Larryville, NJ, USA
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 5:17 pm
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What John said.
Look at it like an old '68 Chevy nova.
Not the prettiest thing, and you could give it a paint job, but it's whats under the hood that counts.
_________________
Just 'cause I look stupid, don't mean I'm not. |
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Russ Tkac
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Posted 19 Jan 2013 6:36 pm
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I had a rosewood D-10 Emmons fatback that was a matt finish when I got and I was a bit disappointed because it wasn't gloss.
A month or two later I grew to love it and it was the best sounding steel I ever had. The problem with it was that when I needed cash, it was the quickest sale to get $3000 and I just had to keep my less expensive steel for playing.
Learn to love it or trade it with someone who might like the dull finish and the extra cash.  |
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Per Berner
From:
Skövde, Sweden
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Posted 20 Jan 2013 12:16 am
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Of course I realise that irreversible mods will hurt the resale value. I don't mind a matte finish at all, it's just the texture that bugs me – and only because all the metal parts are like brand new or even better.
If it had been a worn-out guitar in need of restoration, I would strip it down. But since it is in such awesome mechanical condition, I don't want to risk doing that and maybe not be able to make it work the way it should again... |
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Roger Shackelton
From:
MINNESOTA (deceased)
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Posted 20 Jan 2013 12:42 am
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HELLO PER,
Perhaps The Old Adage Might Apply Here: "If It Ain't Broke, Don't Fix It".
ROGER |
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Ron Whitworth
From:
Yuma,Ariz.USA Yeah they say it's a DRY heat !!
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Posted 20 Jan 2013 7:12 am
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Hello Per;
Here is a suggestion as to what I would try if I were in your situation..I would contact John & ask him how he went about doing this >>
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=238046
Best of luck to you.. Ron
_________________
"Tone is in the hands. Unless your wife will let you buy a new amp. Then it's definitely in that amp."
We need to turn the TWANG up a little
It's not what you play through, it's what you play through it.
They say that tone is all in the fingers...I say it is all in your head
Some of the best pieces of life are the little pieces all added up..Ron
the value of friendship. Old friends shine like diamonds, you can always call them and - most important - you can't buy them. |
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Loren Morehouse
From:
Meadowlands, MN USA
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Posted 20 Jan 2013 10:55 am
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| What Steve said!! Hi Steve!! |
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Per Berner
From:
Skövde, Sweden
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Posted 21 Jan 2013 12:06 am
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| Hi Ron, thanks for reminding me of that beauty. Maybe the faux carbon fibre weave texture would hide the knobbly mica surface underneath (where a gloss black wrap certainly wouldn't). |
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