Changing Strings On GFI Keyless

Jeff Scott Brown · From: O'Fallon Missouri, USA

It was just like 4 hours ago that I posted a comment on another thread and mentioned that I had never changed a string on a PSG. I jinxed myself. I just broken the 3 string.

While researching the guitar to buy I had found some folks grumbling about the GFI keyless system complaining that it was difficult to change strings. I read GFI's instructions and looked at pictures and convinced myself that it couldn't be that bad so I set that argument aside and went on with my selection process which eventually led to my buying a GFI Ultra with the keyless system.

Today is the 1st time I had to replace a string. It was super simple. I turned the tuner until the finger was as close to the nut as it would go, as if lowering the pitch of the string as far as it would go. I installed the string, wrapping it around the screw 1 time and then tuned it up to pitch.

The instructions at http://www.gfimusicalproducts.com/Tables/Keyless%20Instructions.htm were very clear and worked fine for me. The only smallest thing that one might be concerned about is getting as much slack out of the string as you can before wrapping it around the screw. If the string is too slack, the finger can't move enough to bring it up to pitch. Mine worked fine. This was the 3 string. Maybe wound strings might be more difficult but I don't see why they would be.

This was the first time I have ever done it and the whole thing was quite quick and easy. Maybe a traditional tuner could be done a little more quickly, but not much. 1 small drawback is you need a screwdriver. Aside from that, this doesn't seem to me to be any more hassle than traditional tuners.

If any of you are considering this system and are concerned that string changing might be particularly complicated, my input is that it is no problem at all.

Enjoy.

JSB
_________________
GFI Ultra S10 Keyless
Peavey Nashville 112
Goodrich L120, BJS, Peterson StroboPlus HD

Dickie Whitley · Posted 22 Dec 2012 12:10 pm

Jeff, check your email. Thanks.

Jeff Scott Brown · From: O'Fallon Missouri, USA

Jeff Scott Brown · From: O'Fallon Missouri, USA

John Billings · From: Ohio, USA

Jeff,
Here is a subject that's been talked about a couple of times.

--- Which way to wind your string around the machine screw?---

When I got my Kline, I was instructed to always wind the string around the screw in a counter clockwise (anti-Clockwise) direction. That way, the tension on the string is always in favor of keeping the screw tight. Others say they have no problems winding clockwise, but the simple physics of it tell me CCW is better.

Edited to add; I see GFI uses Phillips Head screws. Allen Head cap screws are better, imo, because you never slip with an Allen wrench. Much mo positive feel. Easy to change out on your guitar, and just get a Ball-Ended Allen Head screwdriver.

Jeff Scott Brown · From: O'Fallon Missouri, USA

John Billings · From: Ohio, USA

Jeff
With CCW, the string tension force is in the same direction as tightening the screw. Cw is in the direction of loosening the screw. But, as I said, most don't seem to have a problem either way. But I trust Joe kline's opinions.

"basically prying the screw away from the hole it is screwed into. There doesn't seem to be much force actually trying to turn the screw."

I don't quite follow the part about "prying the screw." The string is being squeezed between the bottom of the screw head, and the top of the tuning "arm." Once all three are in contact, you're right, it doesn't take much force to tighten them up. Just a fraction of a turn on my Kline. They're all three, steel, so there's not gonna be much compressing of any of them. But,,,, there's still a LOT of tension on the string when it's tuned up. I had a 3rd string break on my first Shobud, and it cut me pretty good! Always wore my glasses after that!
There's a string tension chart somewhere on the Forum, but I'm so hopeless with the "Search" function, that I can't find it. I'll keep thinking about the "prying" deal,,,, But one does wrap the string almost all the way around the screw before tightening it, and the bottom of the screwhead is always parallel to the top of the tuning "arm, so the pressure of the screw is equal almost all the way around on the string.,,,,,,,, Hmmm, by prying, do you mean that the strings force is, kinda, up on the screw, against the upper edge of it's threaded hole? Argh! Time to stop worrying about this! 8^) Time for a beer! Take it easy!

Georg Sørtun · From: Mandal, Agder, Norway

Changing strings on the GFI keyless is easier and quicker than changing strings on my keyed PSGs, so no problem there. I have found that only the 3d string need "close to pitch" pretensioning to avoid running out of tuning range.

I do pretension all strings well though, to reduce hysteresis by hang/slip on the solid "nut-bar" to a minimum. That solid bar is the only thing I don't like on my GFI keyless, as my own tests have shown that friction over it leads to audible detuning when releasing pedals/levers after raising/lowering strings.

My experience is that winding strings ClockWise or CounterClockWise makes no difference in holding them securely on the GFI keyless. I prefer winding them ClockWise.

Jeff Scott Brown · From: O'Fallon Missouri, USA

Georg Sørtun · From: Mandal, Agder, Norway

I just pull each string almost to pitch before tightening screw. There are probably special tools that will provide a good grip on the string-end for pulling, but I just wrap it around a second screwdriver.

Jeff Scott Brown · From: O'Fallon Missouri, USA

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