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Topic: having trouble tuning 3rdd string an pedal |
Larry Griffin
From: Rittman, Ohio, USA
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Posted 27 Aug 2012 11:29 am
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im a restringing my MSA single 10 an having prolems with breaking the 3rd string it seems when i try an tune the pedal an the open string i cant get the proper tuning on both ways any advice would be helpful im get ready to put on my 3rd string ive broken 2 so far thnks sincerely |
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Paul Sutherland
From: Placerville, California
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Posted 27 Aug 2012 12:20 pm
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When you wind the string onto the tuner make sure the string does not cross over itself. The tension on the third string is high enough that the string will cut itself in half if it overlaps. That's been my experience. I have also very meticulously wound third strings on and still had breakage as I tuned the string up. I attribute that to a bad batch of strings. It has mainly happened with Ernie Ball strings. |
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Ray Montee
From: Portland, Oregon (deceased)
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Posted 27 Aug 2012 4:53 pm Those PESKY 3rd strings.........................
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It's been my experience that if I install the string, then crank it up tight but SHORT of reaching the desired G# pitch (or whatever) and then letting it sit for 10-15 minutes before I next attempt to
tighten it up anymore.......
and then, only crank it tighter by perhaps a half--tone at a time while letting the string aclimate itself to the stress of being out of the closet........er, package......
I NEVER EXPERIENCE the problem of string breakage.
That's the way it works from where this olde guy sits. |
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Larry Bressington
From: Nebraska
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Posted 27 Aug 2012 6:07 pm
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Install the string into the hole of the keyhead and wind with tuning peg vs winding the string around the tuning peg...Tune straight up to G#, pump pump pump re-tighten X3. _________________ A.K.A Chappy. |
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Paul Sutherland
From: Placerville, California
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Posted 27 Aug 2012 7:58 pm
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I forgot to mention; if the tuner has a sharp edge in the hole that the string passes through, that can cut a high G#string. I put new tuners on my steel and kept breaking strings until I used a small round file to smooth out the edges of the hole in the tuner. That, and avoiding Ernie Balls, solved my problem.
Last edited by Paul Sutherland on 27 Aug 2012 9:30 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Steve Lipsey
From: Portland, Oregon, USA
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Posted 27 Aug 2012 8:23 pm
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My 3rd string breakage was solved by just allowing a little more length so that the string winds past the edges of the hole in the tuner and doesn't cross the hole edge under tension.... _________________ https://www.lostsailorspdx.com
Williams S10s, Milkman Pedal Steel Mini & "The Amp"
Ben Bonham Resos, 1954 Oahu Diana, 1936 Oahu Parlor |
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Clete Ritta
From: San Antonio, Texas
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Posted 27 Aug 2012 10:02 pm
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The clue is: where do the strings keep breaking?
If its at the tuner (most common), check for burrs on the edge of the hole and put extra winds as mentioned, so the string is at the bottom of the post.
If its at the nut, check for burrs and that it rolls smoothly.
If its in the middle of the neck (rare), your strings may be rusted, a bad batch possibly, or too high gauge tension.
If its at the changer, check for grooves etc.
If its at the ball end (also rare), your string gauge may be too high also, try a lower gauge.
Clete |
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David Nugent
From: Gum Spring, Va.
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Posted 28 Aug 2012 3:20 am
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I always replace my strings after a practice session and once tuned to pitch, allow them to "settle in" overnight before attempting to play the guitar or tune the pedal/knee lever (this step should normally not be necessary if the strings are replaced with the same gauges). FWIW: As I have mentioned in similar posts on this subject; the 3rd string (usually an .011)would normally be tuned to an 'E' note on a standard six string guitar. On a pedal steel, it is tuned two steps higher in open tuning and then pulled an additional half step with the pedal which creates severe tension on a new string...Edited to correct for a senior moment, thanks Lane for bringing that to my attention.
Last edited by David Nugent on 28 Aug 2012 9:53 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Lane Gray
From: Topeka, KS
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Posted 28 Aug 2012 4:08 am
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2, Hahaha! Two whole steps higher!!
(Americans under 50 may recognize the reference to The Count, from Sesame Street. Sadly, Jerry Nelson, the puppeteer behind him died last week)
E-G# is a major third, not a minor one _________________ 2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Richard Sinkler
From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 28 Aug 2012 10:44 am
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I also let my 3rd "settle in" overnight if I am changing the strings. I will tune it to a F# and let it it sit for maybe an hour, then tune to G and let it sit overnight. The next morning tune to G# and let it sit for an hour or two and then tune the pedal. Of course, if it breaks while I am playing, I don't have that luxury and have to just get it up to pitch and hope for the best.
Maybe I am confused, but if the string is breaking at the roller bridge, why would the way you wind it at the tuning key make a difference. Of course the OP didn't say where it was breaking, but I have only seen a string break at the tuning key maybe twice in my 41 years of playing, not counting the few months I was using a borrowed single 8 Fender PSG with no rollers at the nut while waiting for delivery of my first ZB. It would not allow the G# to A raise on string 3 more than a few times without breaking. But even then, it broke at the nut and not the tuning key. Of course I don't want to down play the importance of proper winding at the tuning key. But if that is not where the string is breaking, I don't think that is the problem. Maybe there is something I don't understand. _________________ Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting. |
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Larry Bressington
From: Nebraska
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Posted 28 Aug 2012 2:56 pm
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Let em sit overnight??? Huh, Tune em up and play brothers, never broke one! Sometimes i'll even change them on the bandstand just before a gig, Pump, pump, tug, tug, twiddle a few nylons, stretch, tune up and go .....Something is causing your string to break and it isen't because you are putting home to G#. _________________ A.K.A Chappy.
Last edited by Larry Bressington on 28 Aug 2012 3:05 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Jerry Overstreet
From: Louisville Ky
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Posted 28 Aug 2012 3:03 pm
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What Larry said. I'll bet you got a bad batch of strings. It happens.
If the string is any good, it'll tune up right away. I guess you can break any of them if you yank on 'em hard enough taking the stretch out.
I don't think letting them sit and wait makes any difference at all. If they're good, they're good. If they're bad, they're bad. That's my dos centavos. |
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David Nugent
From: Gum Spring, Va.
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Posted 28 Aug 2012 4:55 pm
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It appears that the responders are divided into two distinct camps. If you decide to follow the "tune 'em up and play" method however, the only further advice that I can give is that it may be advisable to keep a few extra .011's on hand (just in case?) |
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Jerry Overstreet
From: Louisville Ky
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Posted 28 Aug 2012 6:45 pm
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I suggest you go with whatever works for you. Don't follow my lead.
As far as 11's go, I don't use them. 12's are my preference, 13's on the Zum. The only time I have problems getting them up to pitch is if they're bad to start with or if I don't install them properly.
Always choose PG or Reinforced packaged for pedal steel when possibe.
Take the stretch out of them slowly and evenly with pedal action and light tugging.
Yes, you need to regularly maintenance and inspect your roller bridge, nut and machine holes for burrs, grooves and inconsistencies. |
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Larry Bressington
From: Nebraska
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Posted 28 Aug 2012 7:05 pm
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I polish my fingers at every string change with Simichrome also. It takes about 10 minutes, but it's worth the time and it keeps the Zing out. It fills in the rough edges and makes them nice and shiney without pulling off any metal from the finger. Don't use sandpaper or such or you'll be replacing finger's in a year or 2.
There was a famous steel player years ago, maybe Curly Chalker or Jimmy Crawford, Lloyd Green...who use to laugh and make jokes about guy's pulling their 3rd string up slowly and being gentle with it...He used to wind one on straight up to G# and say over the Mic, If it cant handle G# right off the bat, it don't belong here, and the steel loving audience would laugh anticipating a snap as it hit Peak... whilst he wound her right up, did some pumps, cracked a joke and started picking again...As far as i know, that then became the method. _________________ A.K.A Chappy. |
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Jerry Roller
From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA
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Posted 28 Aug 2012 7:39 pm
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As someone stated, it is important to know where the string is breaking. If it is at the key just wind more string one it. I cut the 3rd about 6" past the key and wind it all on the key. If it is breaking in the middle or toward the changer you might watch your tuner closely as you press the pedal. If the return spring is slightly weak you could be pulling the string up past pitch (A) then it settles back down.
Jerry |
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Ransom Beers
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Posted 30 Aug 2012 3:31 am
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Paul Sutherland wrote: |
When you wind the string onto the tuner make sure the string does not cross over itself. The tension on the third string is high enough that the string will cut itself in half if it overlaps. That's been my experience. I have also very meticulously wound third strings on and still had breakage as I tuned the string up. I attribute that to a bad batch of strings. It has mainly happened with Ernie Ball strings. |
Also check for burrs around the hole on the tuning shaft,use a die riflers file to smooth them. |
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Jerry Roller
From: Van Buren, Arkansas USA
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Posted 30 Aug 2012 8:26 pm
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No one can give good advise unless we know where the string is breaking. At the tuning key, at the roller nut, at the changer or somewhere in the middle?
Jerry |
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