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Author Topic:  should i flat my E strings slightly from 440?
Aaron Shively


From:
California, USA
Post  Posted 24 Aug 2012 9:30 am    
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i have a boss tuner, and have been tuning my E strings to 440, and then tuning the rest by ear, making the B's pretty close to 440, and the others somewhat flat (by between 1 and 2 dots). it makes the middle strings sound good, but strings 1, 2, and 7 are posing problems. i can't seem to make them in tune with anything. would this be fixed by flatting the E's and retuning the whole thing by ear?
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Larry Bressington

 

From:
Nebraska
Post  Posted 24 Aug 2012 9:55 am    
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440 on E's B's and F#'s, pedal tune/ear tune the rest.
It's a 'Can O Worms' question in this town, because there are many ways and variance's depending on many ingredient's such as, Ear, Opinion, Player blah blah. There is a 'Jeff Newman' chart somewhere around here, and it works perfectly.
Most players got a little twist of their own on Tuning and Compensation etc but keeping those string at 440'ish will be a great foundation to build upon, otherwise you might be chasing your own tail throughout the spectrum of the tuning.
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Last edited by Larry Bressington on 24 Aug 2012 10:09 am; edited 1 time in total
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Bo Legg


Post  Posted 24 Aug 2012 10:08 am    
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I think your problem is with the way you are hearing the notes out of the major chord on strings 1 2 and 7
If you lower the Es you'll come up with the same results except the whole thing will be flat.
Since your method doesn't seem to be working for you I would suggest tuning Newman or straight up allowing for cabinet drop.
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 24 Aug 2012 1:49 pm    
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I have used the Newman tunings (or a variation of the Newman tunings) for many years. Back in the 80's, when I first started using a tuner I tuned everything to "zero" with a Korg WT-12 and people kept telling me I was "out of tune". Jeff Newman came out with his chart, with the E's at Zero and I started using that and I've never had anyone tell me I was out of tune since.
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Tom Campbell

 

From:
Houston, Texas, USA
Post  Posted 24 Aug 2012 3:09 pm    
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My Jeff Newman charts show the E's at 442. Its there another Jeff Newman chart?
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Bo Legg


Post  Posted 24 Aug 2012 4:15 pm    
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Yes Newman added 2.5 Hz for each entry to his first chart so the open strings would sound more in tune when you used pedals or levers. That is the Es at 442.5 Hz. I believe he also changed the B string so it would be .5Hz flat to the E.
I went from Newman to New Newman to Straight Up to Straight Up 441 and tuning all the levers and pedals to 440. It's straight up allowing for my cabinet drop before I became satisfied. JI tuning to me means Just Idiotic.
All these different ideas in tuning are really just tuning out of tune to satisfy a person or persons concept of being in tune.
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Ray Montee


From:
Portland, Oregon (deceased)
Post  Posted 24 Aug 2012 5:10 pm     How times have changed.................
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We used to play music in TUNE..........for decades, long before electronic tuners were ever envisioned.

Was it the electronic tuning gizmo's that caused all of this tuning confusion.......or,

was it the pedal version of the steel guitar that has left us with this conflict?

We always tuned the guitars and fiddles to the accordian or piano (E above middle C) or whomever had the most strings and in our apparent ignorance, we all played in tune.

What went wrong?
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Billy Tonnesen

 

From:
R.I.P., Buena Park, California
Post  Posted 24 Aug 2012 7:18 pm    
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Even back before today's Pedal Steels I always had to
adjust the tuning by Ear. Even if you tuned to the notes on a Electic Piano or Keyboard, I would fine tune by Ear. Anyone remember the "Tuning Forks" which you could hold over your pickup and hear the note the Fork was tuned to ? You had to give a little wallop to the Fork first !
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 24 Aug 2012 7:23 pm    
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I would keep tuning the Es to 440, or even go a little sharp to compensate for cabinet drop. Then tune by ear as you have been. You can tune the first and second string against the fifth to make a smooth sounding triad.

Regarding the seventh string there are at least several choices, depending on what you play the most often, and what is most important to be in tune. I basically tune the seventh string to 440, which is close to the first string (actually the first string is a bit sharp of 440). I adopted this method of tuning the seventh string fairly recently. When tuned this way, you can play the string 5, 7 & 8 with the knee lever lowering the 8th a half tone, and the resulting B major chord is fairly well in tune. This opens up the bottom end of the E9 tuning.

Alternatively, you can tune the seventh string against the fifth string with the A pedal engaged. Tuning in that manner gives you a just intonation F# minor chord at the nut on strings 5, 6, & 7 with the A & B pedals down. The seventh string will be noticeably flat on your tuner, and as compared to the first string, but that minor chord will sound really good. For other chords made with pedals up, the seventh string is a second/ninth interval. Those chords don't have to be as precisely in tune to be passable. The significant down side of tuning this method is the B chord with the 5, 7 & 8 string combination with the 8th lowered a half tone will sound horrible.

In my experience minor triads that are a little out of tune are not nearly as noticeable as major triads that are out of tune.

The next step, which I haven't taken yet, is to put a compensator on the seventh string that is activated by either the A pedal or the B pedal. The compensator should slightly lower the pitch of the string, so you would tune the string open to 440, and then lower it slightly to bring the string in tune with the pedals down.
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bill dearmore


From:
Belton,Tx.,USA
Post  Posted 24 Aug 2012 9:24 pm    
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Here's an Emmons tuning chart that is pretty good. I do vary from this with the 7st string tuned to +4 cents sharp but lower it 15 cents with the "B" pedal(compensator). Also, start by setting your tuner to 442 instead of 440

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Bo Legg


Post  Posted 26 Aug 2012 1:07 pm    
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Ray is it that you guys had better ears or did you just have better piano tuners back then.
The only way I can get close in tuning with a real piano tuned nowadays to (*%$*^ Tuning) is have them hit an Eb and calibrate my tuner to that.
I'd trade that Baby Grand straight up for a midi.
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Michael Hummel


From:
Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 8:10 am    
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Quote:
Anyone remember the "Tuning Forks" which you could hold over your pickup and hear the note the Fork was tuned to ? You had to give a little wallop to the Fork first !


I'm a new player with lots of high-tech gadgets, so I use the Peterson Strobo-Tune application on a laptop which lets me tune to the "New Newman" and it sounds pretty great to me and works well with the band.

But when I first got the guitar this spring and took a visit to see Al Brisco in Toronto to set it up, darned if he didn't whip out a tuning fork and then tune the rest of the strings by ear. The tuning sounded absolutely fabulous to me (but Al has been playing steel for 50+ years!)
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 9:42 am    
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yes... it's amazing what 'listening' can do!
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 9:53 am    
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just mash the pedals, they'll go flat! Laughing
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Jake Hoffman


From:
Idaho, USA
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 12:51 pm    
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This topic has been hotly debated since the time of Ptolemy, and continues today. Professional symphony orchestra players have been known to get in fist-fights over this. The twelve tone equal temperament took hold for a variety of reasons. It conveniently fit the existing design of early piano keyboards, and allowed for harmonic freedom at the expense of just a little impurity in every interval. Fixed interval instruments generally adhere to equal tempermant tuning. String players (fretless, like the steel guitar) generally adopt a method known as "just intonation", where minute fingering corrections are made depending on the harmonic overtones of the key signature, and the relationship of the other notes being played together. For the steel, this may mean small adjustments in the position of the bar "on the fly".

I generally tune my E strings to zero on a tuner set to 440, slightly flatten my G#s, and tune my pedalled A to 440 (zero). I tune the rest by ear ("beat frequencies"). I find the real headache lies with the dreaded B string (the "B-string Blues", I believe this is called amongst 6-string guitar players). I make adjustments with the bar, depending on the key, and the adjoining notes, as necessary.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 3:52 pm    
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Most guitar cheap digital tuners are made for straight guitars, which are always temper-tuned. That simply means that when you set one note on the tuner, be it the "E", "A", or whatever, to "straight up 440", none of the other notes will then actually be "straight up 440" unless you set each one individually as you use it. Of course, with a programmable tuner, you can set each note anywhere you want it, but I sometimes get the feeling that many non-pro players don't realize that "straight up" on an ordinary tuner is, by nature, "ET", but the wrong "ET" for pedal steel. This is probably why there is so much tweaking and so many different "offsets" used by steelers.
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Bo Legg


Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 9:14 pm    
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Are your saying that on a cheap or mid-priced chromatic tuner, tuning each string to the 440 mark is not tuning straight up?
Well that is the only ET that I know of.
If you are refering to tuning to a piano, I don't think that is straight up because the piano is tuned with what they call wide octave stretching, that doesn't apply to PSG where you are only dealing with tuning 10 strings and less than 2 octaves.
I would calibrate my tuner to the A key of the piano (the one that is supposed to be 440) and then tune straight up.
Then if you sound out of tune shot the piano player!


Last edited by Bo Legg on 29 Aug 2012 10:06 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 9:31 pm    
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The wrong ET? Huh?
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Paul Sutherland

 

From:
Placerville, California
Post  Posted 29 Aug 2012 11:27 pm    
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For what it's worth: I just heard Aaron play on stage and his intonation was remarkable good, particularly for a relative newbie. I've heard steelers with decades of experience that couldn't play nearly as well in tune. There is hope for the younger generation.

PS. He's a hell of a guitar player!!
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Ransom Beers

 

Post  Posted 30 Aug 2012 3:22 am    
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Hmm,maybe I should've invested in a tuner ,then I wouldn't have sold my guitar,damn I hate when that happens!!!
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 30 Aug 2012 7:42 am    
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Quote:
Are your saying that on a cheap or mid-priced chromatic tuner, tuning each string to the 440 mark is not tuning straight up?
Well that is the only ET that I know of.


No. What I'm saying is that all tempering systems are not alike. So, a tempering system designed for a fretted instrument won't be the same as a tempering system designed for an instrument that is not "fretted". This is why you can't tune a piano with a guitar tuner, and have it sound decently in tune. The tempering offsets are different. Shocked
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Bo Legg


Post  Posted 30 Aug 2012 10:35 am    
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The PSG is a fretted instrument. You hold the fret (bar) in your hand and place it on the strings. Donny I'm not picking at you I'm just asking for your input and explaining why I tune ET as I know it.
I sound more intune with the guitar player when I tune ET. Sure it has some buzzes and sure my thirds sound a little sharp when no one except me is playing but when the band fires up I sound more in tune straight up than I did with the Newman method.
The bass aways sounds sharp to every instrument in the band. Maybe it's my ear or maybe it's the bass that needs tuned to something besides a cheap guitar tuner.
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Clete Ritta


From:
San Antonio, Texas
Post  Posted 30 Aug 2012 10:38 pm     Re: should i flat my E strings slightly from 440?
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Aaron Shively wrote:
...strings 1, 2, and 7 are posing problems. i can't seem to make them in tune with anything...


Regardless of what frequency A is (440~442), I find it easiest to tune all strings by ear to the 4th string E. The octave, fifths and thirds form an E major chord on strings 10, 8, 6, 5, 4 and 3. Then tune the open B major chord on strings 10, 7, 5, 2 and 1. This is where 1, 2 and 7 fit in. At this point all but string 9 will be tuned.

Clete
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b0b


From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
Post  Posted 30 Aug 2012 11:04 pm     Re: should i flat my E strings slightly from 440?
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Aaron Shively wrote:
i have a boss tuner, and have been tuning my E strings to 440, and then tuning the rest by ear, making the B's pretty close to 440, and the others somewhat flat (by between 1 and 2 dots). it makes the middle strings sound good, but strings 1, 2, and 7 are posing problems. i can't seem to make them in tune with anything. would this be fixed by flatting the E's and retuning the whole thing by ear?

No.

First of all, you should tune the E strings to 440 with A+B pedals down. When you release the pedals, the E's will rise to slightly above 440. That's normal. Then tune the rest of the guitar by ear.

Strings 1 & 2 should be tuned to make a B major chord with string 5 as the root. This isn't hard to do. You can hear it.

String 7 is a special problem. You can tune it with your E's lowered to make a B major chord on strings 10, 8(lowered), 7 and 5. But then it will sound sharp on the A6th chord with pedals A+B. If this bothers you, you can add a compensator pull to lower the F# just a little bit on your A or B pedal. A lot of people do this.
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Tim Heidner

 

From:
Groves, TX
Post  Posted 1 Sep 2012 10:57 am    
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Here's what I've been doing, seems to work OK.

With the Peterson Strobostomp:

On the strings that go flat with the pedals mashed, I try to get the wheel turning at the same speed(opposite direction) with the pedals down or up. Basically splitting the difference.

Seems like if I tune the E's completely in tune with the pedals mashed, then it's noticeably too sharp with them up.

I know I didn't explain that very well.
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