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Bobby Boggs

 

From:
Upstate SC.
Post  Posted 10 May 2012 9:34 pm    
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Would someone be nice enough to send or post a picture showing how Sho~Bud rigged the 2nd string 1/2 stop.I'd like to put it back original. But I'm missing the parts.

This is for a 74. 2 hole pullers, triple raise, double lower. If that makes any difference. Thanks in advance.
bb

This is what I have. But I see no way to make it work without and additional rod passing thru a 1/2 stop adjustment.




Last edited by Bobby Boggs on 10 May 2012 9:57 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Skip Edwards

 

From:
LA,CA
Post  Posted 10 May 2012 9:52 pm    
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This ok? To my eyes, it looks like the piece that the spring butts up against is backwards, but you get the idea.

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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 10 May 2012 10:14 pm    
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it definitely is missing a couple parts. it should look something more like we have stopped on michael Yahl's page. See www.psgparts.com for a picture
that 1 doesn't look like it has any free play to pull to the D note before meeting the spring at D and going to C#.

You could make it that arrangement work by adding a tuning barrel between the spring and the tower
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects


Last edited by Lane Gray on 10 May 2012 10:18 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bobby Boggs

 

From:
Upstate SC.
Post  Posted 10 May 2012 10:15 pm    
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Thanks Skip. But I still don't get it.From the time the lower finger starts to pull. There's pressure on the spring.

It of course needs to pull till it lowers a 1/2 step. Then load the spring.

It's after 2am local time. I got to be missing something. Like my brain.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 10 May 2012 10:30 pm    
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Right Bobby, I think you could do it by putting a tuning barrel between the end of the spring and the tower, so that it would travel free until it gets to D, but I think to tune that note you would have to reach under the guitar and twist the barrel when the lever is relaxed
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Bobby Boggs

 

From:
Upstate SC.
Post  Posted 10 May 2012 10:44 pm    
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Lane thanks for the link. Now does anyone have picture showing how this connects?


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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 10 May 2012 11:08 pm    
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I don't have a picture, but you could either put another bellcrank on that shaft, or put a puller on the raise hole of the 2nd string bellcrank.
If that shaft ran all the way across the guitar, I'd recommend putting a bellcrank under the pad, so you wouldn't have to reach as far underneath to tune it.

EDIT: The picture doesn't show the puller, so I guess it's not included, but a puller on the shaft will meet the barrel when you get to D, and start compressing the spring until you get to C#.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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CrowBear Schmitt


From:
Ariege, - PairO'knees, - France
Post  Posted 11 May 2012 1:37 am    
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can this help you along Bobby ?

With tuning screws on the changer:


====================================================

Without tuning screws you need extra pull rod
>>>
, See John Fabian's video about the split tuning



Last edited by CrowBear Schmitt on 14 Aug 2013 8:20 am; edited 1 time in total
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Bill Moore


From:
Manchester, Michigan
Post  Posted 11 May 2012 3:47 am    
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Bobby, here's an enlargement of Crowbear's pic, see the small gap between the puller finger and the tuning barrel? You don't have that gap on the pic you posted. The half stop is adjusted by adjusting the distance of that gap. If that tuning barrel is screwed out all the way, it looks like it could be, screw it in and see if that will work. Basically, you should start with a gap, maybe 1/4", when the barrel screwed in about half way. You will feel the stop as the puller hits the barrel. If you need to, you can loosen it's setscrew and move the barrel away from the puller. You need a gap and some thread travel on the barrel for adjustment.

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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 11 May 2012 4:21 am    
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Bill, Take another look at Bobby's pull rod. they put the stuff on the same rod that pulls the finger.
I think you could make it work that way, but you would need some more parts because it looks like that barrel on Bobby's guitar tunes the pull, not the stop.

EDIT to say that there might be two rods on that crank, in which case Bobby is actually good to go: just twist that barrel to tune the D

EDITED to correct the name. No idea where Chuck entered my brain
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects


Last edited by Lane Gray on 11 May 2012 6:47 am; edited 1 time in total
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Bill Moore


From:
Manchester, Michigan
Post  Posted 11 May 2012 6:31 am    
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It's hard to see the details, is there only a single rod on the 2nd string, which also has the half stop parts installed? If that's the way it is, you could make it work by switching the parts around. Put one collar up against the puller, then the barrel tuner, but with the adjustable end facing away from the puller. Then a small space, then the other collar then the spring, before the rod goes through the hole in the angle. As the puller moves, it lowers the string, adjust the barrel tuner so that it hits the collar when you reach the half tone lower.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 11 May 2012 6:59 am    
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Bill, if there's only one rod, I think the rod will be locked to the puller (otherwise, nothing happens til puller meets barrel). Unless I have things misunderstood (happens a bit), the order of stuff on the rod beyond the puller should be:
Space -> collar (just to hold the spring) -> spring -> Barrel fixed end (holding some tension on the spring) -> barrel adjustment end, which should meet the tower at D -> tower.

I suspect you could do away with the collar beyond the tower.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Bobby Boggs

 

From:
Upstate SC.
Post  Posted 11 May 2012 7:37 am    
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Thanks guys. I know how to do it with two rod pullers. Which I don't have. And adding another swivel to my short bell-crank will require a pretty sharp bend for the rod that will adjust the 1/2 stop. Or, I can move my pull rod to the bottom hole. But that will make the knee travel longer than I like. Sad

Crowbears guitar has the taller bellcranks which work much better for this.



Lane wrote:
Right Bobby, I think you could do it by putting a tuning barrel between the end of the spring and the tower, so that it would travel free until it gets to D, but I think to tune that note you would have to reach under the guitar and twist the barrel when the lever is relaxed.

I have a feeling that's the way the early ones were rigged.

Again thanks. bb
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CrowBear Schmitt


From:
Ariege, - PairO'knees, - France
Post  Posted 11 May 2012 9:45 am    
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Here's another pic i found of a different series -
looks like it also has two rods

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James Morehead


From:
Prague, Oklahoma, USA - R.I.P.
Post  Posted 11 May 2012 1:27 pm    
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Bobby, Shoot me an email. I'll be glad to walk you through it. Smile
_________________
"Good judgement comes from experience, and a lot of that comes from bad judgement"~old cowboy proverb.
shobud@windstream.net
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Bobby Boggs

 

From:
Upstate SC.
Post  Posted 12 May 2012 10:11 pm    
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Sorry to be late getting back. I ended up rigging it like Crowbears 2nd picture. Along with the 9th string lower timed to start lowering only after the 2nd string reaches the D note. As I do on all guitars.

It feels good. However the rigging in Crowbears 1st picture will make for easier tuning. I grew up with rod tuners on Emmons PP's. So it's not a big deal to me.

Thanks and Be Blessed.
bb
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