Building a stand.

Frederick Hogaboom · From: Connecticut, USA

Any plans, suggestions for constructing a home built stand for a lap steel. (Fred, it's a LAP steel)

Karl Fehrenbach · From: Pennsylvania, USA

My solution was fairly simple, but costs a few bucks. Get 3 telescoping legs and the corresponding machined leg sockets from Bobbe Seymour at Steel Guitar Nashville. The quality is #1. Get a 2 x 8 pine plank about 24" long. Go to a fabric store and get a square yard of naugahyde. Nuagas are not on the endangered species list yet, so have no guilt. Buy a Forstner drill bit the appropriate size to match the lug end of the leg sockets. Position the sockets so that the leg angle is splayed outward, positioning a leg socket at the bottom ends and close to you as a player and one in the center, favoring the edge away from you as a player. Use an industrial spray adhesive to cover the top of the plank to secure the naugahyde and a staple gun to secure the buttom edges of the the covering to the bottom of the plank. Use 2" velcro to secure the the bottom of your lap steel to the naugahyde covered plank. It takes only a few inches of velcro. This stuff really sticks your guitar to the stand. It takes an hour to make this. Yes the legs are expensive, but you will never need to replace them. If you tuck the corners neatly this type of stand looks quite professional and is extemely rugged.

Steve Perry · From: Elizabethtown Ky, USA

What I use is a X type keyboard stand and a sheet of 1/4 hardwood plywood cut to 18x36. It's got plenty of room for two steels plus room for tuners, picks, drinks or anything else you want to have close at hand. I had every intention of covering mine, but never got around to it. Now, it has set lists, notes, and signatures on it so I think I'll just leave it. All tolled, I've got about $50 in it. Here's a pic.

Wayne D. Clark · From: Montello Wisconsin, USA

Another question asked. another answer given.

Another problem voiced, Another problem solved.

Here at the STEEL GUITAR FORUM. Where else.

Hay stephen that's cool. You didn't mention cup holder holes. but there probably there. probably a cell phone stand and an IPOD charger as well.

William Craven · From: South Carolina, USA

It's hard to beat a goodwill walker; it's lightweight, adjustable, collapsable, and has rubber grips that keeps the steel from moving. Oh yeah and they cost about eight bucks depending where you find it. Paint it black so it doesn't make you feel old and viola!
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Steve Perry · From: Elizabethtown Ky, USA

Karl Fehrenbach · From: Pennsylvania, USA

Here is a picture of the stand I built as described in the post above. Nothing more than a 2 x 4 covered in naugahyde with 3 leg sockets and 3 legs purchased from Bobbe Seymour at Strel Guitar Nashville. 2" wide velcro secures the guitar to the stand. That stuff really sticks so I have no concerns with it ever sliding off of the stand.

David Matzenik · From: Cairns, on the Coral Sea

This is cymbal stand using the upper section connected as a diagonal brace with bimini top boat fittings from West Marine.

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Andy Henriksen · From: Michigan, USA

I made mine out of wood, and so far, I'm super happy. http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=225449

The legs are ~15° out in both the X and Y axis. This allows it to settle into a nice stable position nicely. As I mentioned in that thread, the only thing I might have done differently is put the legs out a little closer to the ends to make more room for my feet and legs (and maybe reduce the angle to about 10° to compensate, and keep the feet from sticking out too far and being a trip hazard).

it's solid as can be so far after a few months of weekly packing, transporting and unpacking. No sign of "play" developing in the leg holes, but even if that did happen, I should be able to nudge the feet apart a little to cinch it up.

Helmut Gragger · From: Austria

Karl,

I like your version of a stand. Yes, those legs are expensive, but I suppose you can adjust them from sitting to standing position?
I am not sure I understand how you angle the legs. Can you explain that again?

On the velcro, if I understand right you have to attach one bit to the guitar, the other to the stand´s plate. How does the velcro attach? With glue? Does this not harm the laquering of the guitar?

Andy, your environmentally beneficial stand has some appeal too. Great craftsmanship!

Dave, your version of a stand is probably the easiest available. It is beautiful but I distrust those three legs from a certain elevation up, letting alone interference with gear on the floor.

With greetings,

-helmut
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Karl Fehrenbach · From: Pennsylvania, USA

Helmut,
The leg sockets come pre-drilled and threaded to accept the legs. The pre-drilled threaded socket is at a pre determined angle. Using a Forstner drill bit, ( a spade bit would work just as well), the head of the socket is imbedded into the the wood plank or guitar for that matter. By rotating the socket you can splay out the legs in the direction you prefer. Then using wood screws permanently position the socket. I personally have the two rear legs splayed slightly back towards me as well as out to the side. The single front leg is centered on the plank from end to end, but positioned towards the front of the plank and is splayed out forward. The legs are fully adjustable for either playing standing up or seated. A knurled adjusting nut on the leg makes height adjustment easy. The velcro I use is found at any fabric craft store or hardware store and is self adhesive with a release tape. It is removable from the guitar and the stand by peeling it off if you want to change something. It does not take much velcro to secure the guitar to the stand. The three legged stand I use is very stable and I have had no close calls or problems. I think the 3 legs are more than adequate for a single neck lap steel and looks just fine. Maybe you would want to go with 4 legs if you are playing a double neck.

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