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Post new topic Proceedure For Tuning Splits
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Author Topic:  Proceedure For Tuning Splits
Alan Harrison


From:
Murfreesboro Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2007 10:09 am    
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I have a Mullen (not Mullens) with the screws at the changer, and would like to know the proceedure for tuning the splits. I serched the archives but nothing came up. Thanks Alan
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Scott Swartz


From:
St. Louis, MO
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2007 10:22 am    
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I printed this and put a copy in my seat, got it off the forum somewhere.

This works on guitars that have the Allen screws on the end of the neck.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR SPLIT TUNING
Split tuning is the ability to tune the note that you get from a string that is both raised and lowered at the same time. If your string has not already been adjusted for split tuning, you will need to add about 10% more travel into your lowering pull rod and then perform the following steps:
STEP ONE: Tune string open with the machine-head tuning peg.
STEP TWO: Depress raise pedal only and tune raise with the hex nylon nut.
STEP THREE: Release the raise pedal and with the lowering pedal depressed, tune the lower with the hex nylon nut.
STEP FOUR: Depress the raise and lowering pedals at the same time. This gives your split note. You will notice that the note is a little sharp. While depressing both pedals, adjust the lowering nylon hex nut clockwise (in) until you obtain the proper pitch.
STEP FIVE: Depress the lowering pedal only and notice that this note is a little flat. Turn the Allen screw on the end of the neck (behind the changer) clockwise (in) until you obtain the proper pitch.
STEP SIX: Repeat all steps to ensure the string is in tune.
QUICK TOUCH-UP TUNING FOR SPLIT TUNING
REPEAT STEPS FOUR AND FIVE
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Scott Swartz
Steeltronics - Steel Guitar Pickups
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Roger Crawford


From:
Griffin, GA USA
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2007 11:20 am    
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Similar steps fro ZumSteel manual:
Split Tuning Option
Guitars equipped with this option allow you to obtain a “combination or middle” note on strings that are raised a full tone and lowered a half tone, or vice-versa. The tuning procedure for each string that is affected is as follows:

1. Tune the string to its open-tuning pitch with the Tuning Keys as described in Basic Tuning.
2. Tune the “raise” note with the Nylon Nut as per the Basic Tuning procedure.
3. Engage both the “raise” and “lower” functions by pressing the proper pedal/knee lever combination at the same time.
4. Tune the “resultant/middle” note with the Nylon Nut that lowers the string, turning clockwise to flatten it or counter-clockwise to sharpen it.
5. With only the single pedal/knee levers that lowers the string engaged, tune the “lower” note with the Set Screw in the end of the neck, right side, behind the Changer Finger for that string.
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Alan Harrison


From:
Murfreesboro Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2007 1:16 pm     Thank You
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Thanks Scott and Roger, I'll print this out and put it in my pac seat. Alan
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Mullen (Black) Pre G-2 9x7, B.L. 705 PUP's, Evans SE 200 Telonics NEO 15-4, BJS Bar, Peterson Strobo Flip, Steelers Choice Seat, Folgers Coffee and Hilton Pedals.

"I Steel Without Remorse"
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Jack Stoner


From:
Kansas City, MO
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2007 1:33 pm    
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I've always done it opposite to what Zum says, but I find it really doesn't matter, either way will work.

(1) Tune the open with the tuning key
(2) Tune the raise with the nylon raise pull rod nut.
(3) Tune the full lower with the allen screw at the end of the changer
(4) Tune the split with the pedal pressed and the knee lever "pressed" - tune the lower pull rod nylon tuning nut.
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Stan Paxton


From:
1/2 & 1/2 Florida and Tenn, USA (old Missouri boy gone South)
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2007 1:53 pm    
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Jack's method works for me on my Mullen. The simpler the better for me Laughing I can't remember it from one time to the next anyway. ....
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Alan Harrison


From:
Murfreesboro Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2007 4:00 pm    
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Thanks to all of you, I have Stan's problem, I have to tune the split so seldom, I forget between those times. I have a split screw that the threads not very tight on and it was working loose. A little Blue Loctite took care of that problem. My wife says I have a loose screw anyway. Thanks Again, Alan

"Now I feel better all over more than anywhere else"
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Mullen (Black) Pre G-2 9x7, B.L. 705 PUP's, Evans SE 200 Telonics NEO 15-4, BJS Bar, Peterson Strobo Flip, Steelers Choice Seat, Folgers Coffee and Hilton Pedals.

"I Steel Without Remorse"
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Paddy Long


From:
Christchurch, New Zealand
Post  Posted 3 Jul 2007 7:00 pm    
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And for those guitars that don't have the hex nut at the back of the neck, eg: Carter, EMCI --- check out this link.

http://www.steelguitar.com/askbud/askbud31.htm
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CrowBear Schmitt


From:
Ariege, - PairO'knees, - France
Post  Posted 4 Jul 2007 12:37 am    
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http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=104579&highlight=

Patrick Laffrat wrote:
With tuning screws through the bridge of the changer:


====================================================

Without tuning screws you need extra pull rod
>>>
, See John Fabian's video about the split tuning


by Buddy Emmons
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Jack Stanton


From:
Somewhere in the swamps of Jersey
Post  Posted 4 Jul 2007 3:54 am    
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Crowbear,
Great graphics! Kind of like the diagrams in Winnie's book, but 21st century!
Jack
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Alan Harrison


From:
Murfreesboro Tennessee, USA
Post  Posted 4 Jul 2007 4:12 am     Again, Thanks All!
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Thanks CrowBear, "A picture is worth more than a thousand words", and a lot easier for my feeble mind to grasp..Great diagram. Alan
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Mullen (Black) Pre G-2 9x7, B.L. 705 PUP's, Evans SE 200 Telonics NEO 15-4, BJS Bar, Peterson Strobo Flip, Steelers Choice Seat, Folgers Coffee and Hilton Pedals.

"I Steel Without Remorse"
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CrowBear Schmitt


From:
Ariege, - PairO'knees, - France
Post  Posted 4 Jul 2007 8:21 am    
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i'm just passin' it on from the archives here
Winking


Last edited by CrowBear Schmitt on 12 Mar 2012 12:12 am; edited 1 time in total
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David Hartley

 

Post  Posted 25 Mar 2010 9:22 am     Hi
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Thanks for the diagrams. I needed this info today when adding a split on an old pro 1 sho-bud. Its clever how it works when adding the extra rod. Works accurately too. David
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Daniel Showalter

 

From:
Sierra Vista, AZ, USA
Post  Posted 11 Mar 2012 4:42 pm    
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Ecellant, I just need a few extra rods and will be ready to go!
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John McClung


From:
Olympia WA, USA
Post  Posted 2 May 2012 5:45 pm    
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I just ran into an issue with tuneable splits on a friend's Zum, hope someone knows the answer.

I got the pedal A with X lever raises and lowers nicely set up, using split screw to get the B's to lower a half step using just X lever.

But the guitar also has the Franklin pedal, just both B's lowering to A. That split screw prevents the B's from lowering the whole step needed on Franklin pedal.

How do you overcome that problem?

Thanks!
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Georg Sørtun


From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
Post  Posted 2 May 2012 7:03 pm    
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John, you tune the split-tuning screw at the changer for the Franklin pedal's full-tone lower. That will get the split-tuning screw out of the way for the X-lever.

You then must put on this split with extra pull-rod for the X-lever...

...and tune the half-tone lower with that rod-nut (as the procedure shown) for a perfect split with the A pedal.
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John McClung


From:
Olympia WA, USA
Post  Posted 3 May 2012 5:29 pm    
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Georg thanks so much for the helpful info and diagram. That was my hunch, this confirms, really appreciate it.

Can you just tune the full step lower on Franklin pedal with a tuning rod on the end as normal, then use that extra lowering rod to get the half step lower with X lever? Seems like the split screw wouldn't be necessary, though it is a feasible way to go. Curious as always!
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 3 May 2012 7:15 pm    
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With the full step lower in the equation, the stop screw becomes useless (I'd remove it and put it on the 2nd string).
To split A&X, you'll need the 3rd raise rod, like they said
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Georg Sørtun


From:
Mandal, Agder, Norway
Post  Posted 4 May 2012 7:00 am    
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The split-tuning screws can serve a purpose on the Franklin pedal, to get perfectly stable lower-stop for that change without any "drift" caused by the long pull-rods. It can also be used to make the Franklin+A pedal "mimic" the B to Bb lower (X) lever - if the franklin pedal is next to (left of) the A pedal.

"What works how" with split-screws and split-rods for tuning a Franklin pedal, depends on whether the PSG gets/has "full Franklin pedal" with B to A and G# to F# lower, or "half Franklin pedal" only lowering B strings to A.

Note that split-screws on most PSGs only work on lowers - lower-stop for the control-finger, while split-rods can be installed to work equally well on both lowers and raises - including reverse split-tuning and other "trickery" to make more pedal/lever combinations sound in tune. As many players want as many "intelligent sounding" chords as possible with as few pedals/levers as possible, split-screws and split-rods can be combined in many ways to get the most out of an all-pull PSG.
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