restoring a jeweled neck?

Steven Welborn · From: Ojai,CA USA

I'm familiar with the 'how to' i.e. palm sanders etc. But im just curious if it can be done with a 'brand new jeweled neck' results? OR... are there some who specialize in doing it youd be better off sending your neck to?

Dale Hampton · From: Missouri, USA

I'm not real clear what your question is but if you are wanting to renew the jeweling on your neck watch this http://steelguitar.com/vids/neckjeweling.wmv I watched this video and redid my P/P with a new fret board. Hope this what you are asking.

Steven Welborn · From: Ojai,CA USA

thanks Dale. Looks like it 's really not so difficult. I guess what I'm wondering is if your going over an old worn jeweled neck it wont come out looking like a new job over an old job.
Or should the neck be resurfaced smooth before jeweling again.

Glenn Austin · From: Montreal, Canada

I rejeweled an old Emmons neck about 10 years back. I sanded first with a 320 grit palm sander, because there were a couple of shiny spots along with some blackish areas from oil and grease. I cleaned up nicks along the edges this way too. For the jeweling part I used 60 grit on the same sander. Use a dabbing motion, and make sure to practice first on a piece of aluminum from the hardware store. Of course the neck needs to off the guitar, with the fingerboard removed, make sure to mark where the 12th fret is. The end result looked better than what originally came from Emmons.

Dale Hampton · From: Missouri, USA

I just used a sanding block with 220 grit a couple of passes but you do not have to remove the old jeweling.

You can do it. just do as the it shows in the video. Dale

Glenn Austin · From: Montreal, Canada

That's real nice Dale

Dale Hampton · From: Missouri, USA

Glenn Thank you. This is my favorite guitar. I just wanted to pass on ,as you have indicated also, that it is not hard to rejewel a steel guitar neck. This was my first try and I got my info just from the Carter video. Dale

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

I've done several. It takes all of 10 minutes to do once you get the fretboard off. The video walks you through it. Just make sure you dab in a "random pattern, and don't dwell in any one spot.

Chris Lucker · From: Los Angeles, California USA

If that is the Carter video on restoring a push pull, be very cautious. The gentleman who worked on that Emmons messed up the guitar. He was supposed to be a restoration expert, but simply watch the clip where he remica'd the guitar using the original mica pieces, yet he needs a laminate trimmer to cut off the excess? ?? Obviously the guy had no clue how you put together sn Emmons cabinet. I bought that guitar and I knee it would need to be redone. Every bellcrank was mounted backwards. Aot more was messed up. I sent the guitar to Mike Cass and he took it apart and restored it correctly, and brought the great tone out of it that was missing.
_________________
Chris Lucker
Red Bellies, Bigsbys and a lot of other guitars.

Jim Palenscar · From: Oceanside, Calif, USA

I use a square vibrating sander and 60 grit paper and it works fine. Other than cleaning the neck 1st I don't do any other prep work besides polishing the sides. Just kind of set the sander down for a few seconds, pick it back up, move it to a new spot and repeat- really a breeze. I keep the sander rotated about 45 degrees from it's square position- taught to me by the great JayDee Maness.

Erv Niehaus · From: Litchfield, MN, USA

Chris,
That must be the same guy who worked on a p/p I bought from Carter. I paid for some changes and nothing was done like I wanted. My last dealings with Ann Fabian. Whoa!

Mike Cass · Posted 21 May 2012 12:15 pm

According to the late Ron Lashley Sr., and a past Emmons employee named Tony, who for a number of years did most of the patterning himself(its not really jeweling)for the Emmons metal necks and some woodneck tailpieces, here's the real deal; first you start with a completely polished neck or tailpiece, sides and top. The reason for this is that if you just go over the old pattern, or start trying to pattern with an unpolished casting you wont get the distinctive sparkle and depth in the finished product that is one of the earmarks of the Emmons guitars. Next you use a piece of coarse emery cloth on a small vibrating sander, not orbital, and you completely sand the top surface of both necks or tailpieces dead flat, as you might do to level out a piece of wood before finishing. That levels both tops and prevents the unsightly little grey-black dots(lower areas from buffing)which will appear between the end of the fretboard and the pickup cavity if this procedure is not followed to the letter. After that you hold the face of the sander at a 45 degree angle to your workpiece and go up the bass-side top edge of the neck and back down the treble side and around the edges of the p/u cavity and changer cut-out which gives you a nice finish outside of the fretboard edges, not a polished or rough casting look, and all of the edges will then later blend in with the larger middle surface. The next step is to start over at the bass-side changer area and briefly apply the sander base at a 45 degree angle to the surface and flat to the workpiece, going up the entire length of the neck and back down the treble side until you reach your starting point. This also gives your fretboard adhesive something more uniform and grainy to stick to than a slick, polished surface, or the rough, uneven casting finish. Now you're ready to apply the distinctive Emmons pattern. This is accomplished by applying a new piece of Emory brand coarse grade cloth to the sander(1 piece per neck top here)and again, start at the changer end bass side and lay the vibrating sander face down, flat on the top of the neck with the square base at a 45 degree angle to the workpiece and cover as much area as the sander base will allow in each application. Move up the length of the neck and in a clockwise motion, holding it in position for around 10 seconds in each place, stopping to check your work and repeating that procedure until the desired patina is visible on the whole area that will show after applying the fretboard(s). Dont rotate the sander or try to get the veiny look with movement. Hold it down and leave it there. Its also important to note here that you dont try to achieve the desired pattern in just one spot and then move on. You go from the changer end to up past the 15th fret area or so and back down the treble side, which will cover the widest area near the pickup as well as the narrower fretboard edge area, repeating until its all veiny and sparkly. This isnt a quick, "that'll do" kind of effort. If you want it to look factory, you have to follow factory procedures. Being factory trained does help though, in all areas of Emmons repair and restoration. I hope that those who really desire to achieve the correct finish will try this method and be patient. At first you'll cuss me, but in a few patient minutes you'll get what you're looking for. As for the rest, I'll take care of them when, like Chris Lucker's guitar, they come through here, as most eventually do. Good luck and I hope this helps.
sincerely,

Mike Cass,
615-446-5952.
Factory Authorized Sales, Service, Parts, Repair and Restoration for Emmons Original and Emmons Guitars by Lashley, Inc. Since 1987

Steven Welborn · From: Ojai,CA USA

Mike, thanks for laying that out. Just spoke with Rebecca Lashley the other day about some parts. What a nice lady to deal with! And you are indeed the one and only authorized Emmons restoration dude. I wish there was a "Chilton" or "Hains" manual for properly restoring and re-assembling a PP. I'm sure there's some critical issues one needs to know. I'm in a kind of DIY mode financially and might want to take the time to do a complete resto. However, if a surprise $hip were to come in I could just as easily high tail it over to your pad.
Otherwise, any info out there I should know about? Mr. Green

John Palumbo · From: Lansdale, PA.

I unfortunately should attempt this on my Williams. I went wrong by thinking Mothers polish would remove kinda black marks left over time I guess by my little finger. What happened while rubbing on the Mothers polish, it actually took off the jeweled or knurled surface. I just did not think it was strong enough to do that. Guess I learned the hard way. I guess a question I have is do different guitar manufactures have deeper jeweled finishes than others. Dale's Emmons looks beautiful. Don't know if my Williams had that deep of a jeweled finish. Mullen's also seem to have a deeper cut versus the Williams. Perhaps I'm wrong.

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