| Author |
Topic: Rethinking Ext E9th vs Universal |
Allan Jirik
From:
Wichita Falls TX
|
Posted 5 May 2012 6:31 pm |
|
| I'm slowly working on my mid 70s MSA single 12 Classic guitar. It's a 5 pedal, 5 lever axe and I was going to keep it extended E9th. Maybe I've been short sighted, should I make it Universal? What extra parts would I need- pedals, levers, stops? Thank you for your input. |
|
|
 |
Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
|
Posted 5 May 2012 6:58 pm
|
|
It depends on how far you wish to take it. I'm currently converting a 5 and 5 MSA to a relatively loaded universal.
Because I spend a lot of time on the 6th neck, I went for the Bb6 tuning. The main difference in the two is that the Bb6 leaves the "Es" lowered, and you raise them for the 9th stuff.
Unlike a lot of E9/B6 tunings, it has all the C6 changes, but the basic tuning leaves off the F lever and C pedal. I'm keeping those as well as the analog of the 1st and 2nd raise. I'll be going from 5&5 to 9 or 10 and 5 or 6. I had 4 pedals sitting on my shelf.
You'll need at least two more pedals, with cross shafts, bellcranks pull rods, spacers and tuning nuts. If your pedal bar doesn't already have them, you'll also need pedal brackets
I think you can do pedals for around $150 each.
Two pedals to add, minimum. David Wright plays 9 X 8.
Fortunately you have a guitar that's amazingly easy to do yourself.
And the forum is full of folks who'll help you, if you wanna do it.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
|
|
|
Rick Winfield
From:
Pickin' beneath the Palmettos
|
Posted 5 May 2012 10:57 pm Al Marcus
|
|
Check out the Al Marcus website. On page 7, he has a lot of ideas for copedants
Rick |
|
|
|
b0b
From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
|
Posted 6 May 2012 10:04 pm
|
|
A mid-70s MSA is a poor candidate for a full E9/B6 universal in my opinion. The changer is double-raise, double-lower and the bell cranks only have 4 holes max (some only have 2!). It's really tricky to get all of the leverages right. I'm not saying it can't be done, but it's not easy for someone with limited experience working on steel guitars.
I'd stay with extended E9th. It's mechanically a lot simpler.
_________________
-𝕓𝕆𝕓- (admin) - Robert P. Lee - Recordings - Breathe - D6th - Video |
|
|
|
Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
|
Posted 7 May 2012 6:19 am
|
|
B0b, while it is limited, it can be done.
Perhaps I'm a goofball, but I enjoy working on the two I've had.
And Michael sells the 4 hole cranks (and I bet both Jim Palenscar and Tom Bradshaw got them)
And where two holes aren't enough on the changer, there's those L-shaped gizmos.
That'll give you up to 4 raises or lowers.
I'll share how my progress comes as i start hanging pulls, perhaps soon.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
|
|
|
b0b
From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
|
|
|
|
Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
|
Posted 7 May 2012 9:00 am
|
|
That takes care of the cranks.
But then you have to play with hooks or pins at the rod.
My Zum, a better playing guitar, to shorten a rod, you have to flatten the desired point in the rod (hammer or file), then put it in a drill press, drill a hole for the spring pin, and put the pin in.
I can't imagine hook ends are much easier. That makes pulling a cross shaft seem worlds easier, unless you already have snazzy tools.
The MSA, you, umm, cut the rod. So you need Allen wrenches and aviation snips or a Dremel.
No drill press or whatever you need to bend a hook in the rod.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
|
|
|
