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Topic: Best way to remove a Stringmaster Fretboard? |
Mark Bridge
From: Tempe, Arizona, USA
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Posted 15 Feb 2012 5:32 pm
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Evening guys - Has anyone tackled the job of removing the fretboard from a Stringmaster, or similar? I'm refinishing my D8 and curious if Fender used double sided tape in addition to the escutcheon pins to anchor it down. I'd greatly appreciate any advice you have to offer up on the subject. This is definitely something I want to take my time with and do it right. Mark
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Ron Randall
From: Dallas, Texas, USA
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Posted 15 Feb 2012 9:23 pm
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I have refinished 2 T8 Stringmasters.
The fretboards were very easy to remove. Pull the pins and it's done. Careful not to damage pins or the holes. The fretboards are easily bent or wrinkled.
Now, with this scientific sample of 6 necks...
PS. If you need new replacements, call Jim Palenscar. Good price good service.
Ron |
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Mark Bridge
From: Tempe, Arizona, USA
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Posted 16 Feb 2012 5:50 am Pulling the pins
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Ron - what did you use to pull the pins without damaging them or the fretboard? I was planning on using a mini fret puller that should work fine, just curious what you used. Thanks for the post as well as Jim's info....Mark |
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Mark Roeder
From: Milwaukee, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 16 Feb 2012 9:37 am
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Mark, this is what I use. I also have a piece of cardboard to rock the pliers on so I don't damage the fretboard. _________________ www.deluxe34.com lap steel stands, Clinesmith, Gibson Console Grande, Northwesterns, The Best Westerns
https://www.facebook.com/TheBestWesterns |
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Ron Randall
From: Dallas, Texas, USA
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Posted 16 Feb 2012 1:21 pm
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I used a very thin metal putty knife, about one or two inches wide.
Gently work the tool under the fretboard a little bit at a time. Do this the entire length of the fretboard. then pull or pry up until you can grab the pins.
In my experience, the pins were very very easy to pull.
Again, be slow and gentle and you will succeed.
Be careful not to cut the pins.
Your idea of a fret puller will probably work even better.
Mark Roeder's idea should work too.
Good luck
RR |
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John Billings
From: Ohio, USA
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Posted 18 Feb 2012 3:33 pm
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Just kidding! I like the method of gently prying up the fingerboard to pull the tacks up to where you can grab the shaft, not the head. No sexual connotations please! When ready to reassemble, use a drop of this DAP product in each nail hole. to swell the fibers back up, and to ensure a good grip when reinstalling the tacks. Also use it in any old screwholes to tighten them up.
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Mark Bridge
From: Tempe, Arizona, USA
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Posted 29 Feb 2012 9:48 am Fretboards removed...
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Thanks again for the input here, and some smiles. All went good with the fretboard removal by the way. Trying to pry up the pins using the putty knife method was really tough as the pins were anchored in hard and are 1/2" deep. I actually found it easier to use the bevel end of a chisel (-gently & carefully-) to go just under the fretboard side where the pin is anchored and pry it up. The bevel end of the chisel did the trick without damaging the fretboard and easily pried up the pins. After that I used a fret puller (luthier's mercantile $8.95) to grab the pin shaft protecting the fretboard with a 3x5 index card. Same drill for the Fender logo too, piece of cake. Couple of photos attached...thanks to all again. Mark
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Ron Randall
From: Dallas, Texas, USA
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Posted 29 Feb 2012 12:49 pm
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Improvisation on a theme.
Musicians know how.
Glad it all worked out.
R2 |
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