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Topic: MSA Classic Changer Refurb |
Scott Larsen
From:
Iowa, USA
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Posted 13 Jan 2012 3:45 pm |
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| I'm planning on restoring my 1974 MSA D-10 Classic this winter and I'm looking for any suggestions as to who I might contact about refurbing the changers assemblies. They seem to work fine as-is but I want them cleaned up, the changer finger string surfaces resurfaced, and the shine restored to the aluminum pieces surrounding the changer. I have contacted Jim Palenscar and he said that he does this type of thing - are there any others? Thanks in advance |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 14 Jan 2012 1:56 am
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I'd check Michael Yahl (www.psgparts.com) and Tom Bradshaw, whose URL I can never recall. Al Brisco might as well.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 14 Jan 2012 6:09 am
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| do it yourself. you will gain valuable knowledge of how to maintain your guitar and besides that, its easy. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 14 Jan 2012 6:24 am
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I'd agree with every task but the resurfacing the finger surfaces. I'd rather leave that to folks with snazzy equipment.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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David Wright
From:
Pilot Point ,Tx USA.
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Posted 14 Jan 2012 7:59 am
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| I do re furbs on them... |
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Ken Metcalf
From:
San Antonio Texas USA
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Posted 14 Jan 2012 8:26 am
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| Bill Hatcher wrote: |
| do it yourself. you will gain valuable knowledge of how to maintain your guitar and besides that, its easy. |
Take it apart clean it up, soak it in oil, clean it up, put it back together.
_________________
MSA 12 String E9th/B6th Universal.
Little Walter PF-89.
Bunch of stomp boxes |
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Thom Gustafson
From:
Mount Vernon, Washington, USA
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Posted 14 Jan 2012 9:19 am
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| I just cleaned the E9 changer on my MSA Classic. It had a 30 year accumulation of tar and nicotine from playing in smoke filled rooms and was totally gummed up. It had been sitting in it's case for the last several years while I played my Derby. With suggestions from this forum I used naptha (doesn't damage the nylon spacer washers), a pair of rubber gloves and eye protection, and tooth brushes. I also had to clean all the pedal and lever hardware as well. I used Tri-flow to relube. Take lots of pictures before you start, make notes and take measurements, and be systematic and all should go well. Mine came out great but took several days. Now for my C6 changer. |
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 14 Jan 2012 9:21 am
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Take it apart clean it up, soak it in oil, clean it up, put it back together.[/quote]
Yep, gotta go with Ken on this.. Original MSA changers are bulletproof.. Get some scotchbrite, polish up the fingers where the strings make contact, and clean it up with some solvent[I use gasoline] and oil it before installing.. Good to go for another 10 years.. I have yet to see an MSA changer wear out or break down in ANY way, and I have owned many MSA guitars on and off since 1976 or so... IMHO, it is the most durable changer ever put on a mass produced pedal steel.. bob
_________________
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
Last edited by Bob Carlucci on 14 Jan 2012 3:46 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Ian Sutton
From:
San Francisco, CA
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Posted 14 Jan 2012 12:53 pm
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| I was able to completely refurb my 76 MSA Classic in one afternoon--thanks mostly to the wealth of information on these forums. These changers are bullet-proof and have no weird one-off parts. I made a rodding chart, and used a lot of masking tape to label things. Happy hunting! |
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Jim Palenscar
From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 15 Jan 2012 7:27 am
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| Besides knowing how it is put together, it is important to b cautious with using solvents on the plastic spacers as they will disintegrate easily and be careful when attempting to polish the grooves from the changer fingers as it is important to maintain the radius. |
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Lane Gray
From:
Topeka, KS
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Posted 15 Jan 2012 8:41 am
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Thanks Jim. What solvents do you recommend? I see naphtha (Zippo fluid) and gasoline recommended here, which to my mind leaves naphtha, as I don't trust gas, especially since it's usually got other stuff mixed in nowadays
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects |
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Jim Palenscar
From:
Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 15 Jan 2012 9:01 am
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| Products like Orange Cleaner/Degreaser are generally safe however for that application I would also rinse afterwards with water and apply light oil before assembly. Naptha is also useful but always try whatever you choose on the most sensitive piece 1st to enhance your odds of a successful outcome. |
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Bill Ford
From:
Graniteville SC Aiken
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Posted 19 Jan 2012 4:51 pm
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Soap and water, polish, soap and water, dry,lube, reassemble.
Bill
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!! |
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Gary Cosden
From:
Florida, USA
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Posted 19 Jan 2012 5:50 pm
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| I used Orange cleaner/degreaser when I tore down my Sierra and it worked well on some really grimy parts. I went through 3/4 of a gallon of it just on this one job. You can get it at Home Depot among other places. I think I paid something like $8.95 for a gallon jug. |
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