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Lee Dassow


From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2012 1:00 pm    
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A question about the no.1 string G on the C6th
neck. Would it be okay to raise no. 1 to G# on
pedal 5, being that I have three changes already.
No.5 G to F#-No.9 F to F#, and no.10 C to A. Would this make the pedal much harder to press? Does
Anybody have this change on there C6th neck? I dont want to add any more Knee levers or floor pedals.
This is a heavy Instrument already, and Im not saying that in a negative way, It's built well and very stable. LEE
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2012 1:34 pm    
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Yes, I have the 1st string raise G to G# on pedal 5 along with the F# changes on 5 and 9. But my 10th string raises from C to D. Pretty standard pedal for players that use a G on top.

Usually the C to A lower change is on the Boo Wah pedal, #8 for most players, along with lowering 9, F to E and raising 7 C to C#.

Anyway, I use it quite a bit. It will add some additional feel but it should not be a problem.

Check the forum links for some C6 copedents. http://b0b.com/wp/?page_id=686 look at Mike Jones, Jimmy Day, et al for some basic C6 set-ups with G on top.
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Donny Hinson

 

From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2012 2:51 pm    
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See Jerry's first sentence (above).

That's how the MSA steels were set up originally from the factory, so the steel is easily capable of those 4 changes on one pedal. Yes, it will be a little stiffer, but not enough to cause a problem. Lowering the 10th to "A" on this pedal isn't something I'd recommend, as you loose a lot of really good stuff without that string raising to "D". The low "C"-"A" works best on P8 (the "boo-wah" pedal) and I'd guess that most 10-string C6th players would agree.
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Lee Dassow


From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2012 5:25 pm     Msa Classic D-10 Question On C6th
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I must have taken some stupid pills when I got up this morning. I was incorrect when I gave that information on pedal 5. Of course 9 goes to F#,and 10 goes to D.- C to A on pedal 8. SORRY about that. How about the knee levers. On mine I have RKL C to Bb and thats it for that neck. I'll have to check around those forum links you gave me to make some more knee lever changes.By the way If I didn't Mention it it has four knees levers LEE
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2012 6:29 pm    
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Bb? C-B is standard.
Many also raise at least the 4th string to Bb, some raise 8 as well.
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Jerry Overstreet


From:
Louisville Ky
Post  Posted 10 Dec 2012 7:02 pm    
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Lee Dassow wrote:
I was incorrect when I gave that information on pedal 5. Of course 9 goes to F#,and 10 goes to D.- C to A on pedal 8.


Yeah, I figured that is what you meant. It happens, no big deal.

Echoing what Lane said, another standard change for string 3 might be lowering C a half tone to B which was likely the original configuration.

If you could put another pull rod on the other RKR, maybe string 3 C to C# or maybe raise 4 from A to Bb.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2012 1:51 am    
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If that guitar has the pedals in slots 1-8 or 2-9, one could have all four knees work both necks.
One of the few handy features of the placement of the left knees on an MSA Classic.
Just a matter of ordering some parts and putting 'em in
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Lee Dassow


From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2012 12:27 pm    
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lane. I,m having trouble just pulling that knee lever down to a b. I'd have to go in the bottom bell crank hole closest to the axis rod and theres a pull rod in the way. Some body jacked around a lot with this steel! What I need is a picture of the underside of one to make sure I dont jap out the rodding, maybe yours. Or maybe someone knows of a good photo of one that is close to what its supposed to be. Are you talking about adding two more floor pedals to the right and left of the 8? I didnt understand what you meant. Heres what I got on C6TH Presently; P4 A's to B's--P5 GtoF#-FtoF#-CtoD--P6EtoF-EtoEb--P7CtoD-AtoB--P8 ST.7 CtoC#-FtoE Low
CtoA. Knee lever supposed is to be a B. I am gonna call michael yawl and get some parts from him,once I know what I need. Any help you can give the old cat would be greatly appreciated. THANKS LEE
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2012 1:00 pm    
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Lee, I mean that MSA drilled their aprons for 10 pedals and about 8 or 9 knees. Then, because the location of the LKR is fixed (mounting on the rear rail) at a location closer to the changer/farther from the keyhead than most guitars, most folks didn't like their pedals starting at the very first hole. Most of the guitars with 8 pedals (that I've seen; they've all had lots of experience, since they stopped making them 27 years ago; they may have gotten modified) left the 1st hole unused, as well as 10.
If your 8 pedal guitar leaves at least 1, or 1 & 2 open, you could add bellcranks to your LKL and LKR to make them work on both necks.
When I mentioned pulling the 4th string, I meant on another lever, such as RKL
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Lee Dassow


From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2012 2:41 pm    
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lane; I understand.On the pedal board, I have one
empty slot on each side of the eight pedals. The
knee lever change CtoB is on RKL. the problem with that is I cant get the rod in the first hole because
theres a rod in the way that goes to pedal 7 that raises CtoD. I need to get it in the first hole of the bell crank either that or back off on the adjuster till it's only a B and there'll be a ton of slop in that rod. So as far as the rest of the knee levers go. On yours your RKL and LKL
probably raise and lower A a half step, and the other knee levers raise and lower C a half step.
THANKS for the info LEE
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2015 Mullen D-10 Royal Precision 9x8,-1990 BMI S-10 5x5-1972 Silver face Fender pro Reverb amp,-1965 Fender Super Reverb Amp,- 1966 Fender Showman Amp Two 15" JBL speakers,- 2006 65 Fender Twin Reverb reissue Amp,- 1982 Peavey Session 500 amp,-1978 Peavey Session 400,Goodrich Volume Pedals,John Pearse Steel Bars,


Last edited by Lee Dassow on 11 Dec 2012 4:40 pm; edited 1 time in total
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Bobby Snell


From:
Austin, Texas
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2012 4:32 pm    
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Lee, having that G-G# change on top should be real valuable for you. And your knee lever dropping the C...(you have it to BB)...to B will make a lot of sense using it with the 5 Pedal. Just for starters, that gives you an E major chord on the top 3 strings. The guitar should operate fine with those changes.
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Lee Dassow


From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2012 4:51 pm    
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Thanks BOBBY,
Yeh, B is better. Major 7th chord too, better for that C6TH style. Still if someone could upload a picture of the bottom of a 70's MSA Classic D-10 it would be helpful. I'm going to search back in the for sale section on this forum and see if I can get a clear picture of the underside of the guitar.
_________________
2015 Mullen D-10 Royal Precision 9x8,-1990 BMI S-10 5x5-1972 Silver face Fender pro Reverb amp,-1965 Fender Super Reverb Amp,- 1966 Fender Showman Amp Two 15" JBL speakers,- 2006 65 Fender Twin Reverb reissue Amp,- 1982 Peavey Session 500 amp,-1978 Peavey Session 400,Goodrich Volume Pedals,John Pearse Steel Bars,
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Lee Dassow


From:
Jefferson, Georgia USA
Post  Posted 11 Dec 2012 7:41 pm     Msa Classic D-10 Question On C6th
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UPDATE; Resolved the picture issue of the under
carriage and it looks like mine is about standard. Got RKL to drop CtoB. Problem was the pull rod for pedal-7, CtoD ran right through the bell crank.
so I had to put the rod for RKL closer to center on changer finger(I think) anyhow it works. Pretty tight coming through that bell crank though. But much better than bending rods around this and that.
I appreciate the input. Musically yours, LEE
_________________
2015 Mullen D-10 Royal Precision 9x8,-1990 BMI S-10 5x5-1972 Silver face Fender pro Reverb amp,-1965 Fender Super Reverb Amp,- 1966 Fender Showman Amp Two 15" JBL speakers,- 2006 65 Fender Twin Reverb reissue Amp,- 1982 Peavey Session 500 amp,-1978 Peavey Session 400,Goodrich Volume Pedals,John Pearse Steel Bars,
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