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Topic: Dobro Sound Volume |
Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 17 Dec 2011 4:57 pm |
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When strung up and tuned to GBDGBD on a square neck Dobro, is there any guide line height to set the string at above the fret board for maximum volume? For example, My 6th (Bass) string is slightly higher at the cone end of the guitar by approximately the thickness of that string compared to it's height at the nut. Is this ok or should I adjust the bridge height?
The reason I ask is I've just read conflicting information about this on various web sites and I'd like to have max volume from the instrument if possible. [/b]
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Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Billy Gilbert
From:
Texas, USA
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Posted 17 Dec 2011 5:52 pm dobro string heigth
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| In mho the string height above the fret board doesn't matter too much as long as they are the same height across the strings and your bar doesn't push them down far enough to hit the frets. The angle of the strings where they cross the bridge and the tightness of the tension screw are what matters the most. |
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Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 17 Dec 2011 6:21 pm
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Thanks Billy, My strings are approximately 7/16" above the fret board so there is no worry about them hitting the board. So what's best for maximum volume - high or low break angle where the strings cross the bridge when the guitar is tuned up?
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Billy Gilbert
From:
Texas, USA
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Posted 17 Dec 2011 6:54 pm dobro string height
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| Dennis, when I put a yardstick across the nut and bridge and extending back to the tailpiece, the edge of the stick is about a quarter inch above the point where the strings come out of the tailpiece. That is probably the minimum angle they should have. About half an inch would probably be better. More than half an inch would start to put too much load on the bridge and take away some volume. |
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Dave Thier
From:
Fairhope, Alabama, USA
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Posted 18 Dec 2011 5:40 am
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Optimum for a squareneck dobro resonator is 7/16 inch above the fretboard at the nut and within 1/16 inch below the palm rest of the cover plate. Height does affect the volume and sound as it changes the loading of the cone. Too much or too little is undesirable.
Other aspects of the setup can also affect volume, as can materials such as saddle material and the cone type.
The screw connecting the spider and cone should be adjusted no more that 1/4-1/2 turn past engagement. The screw is not used to adjust volume or tone.
Dave |
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Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 18 Dec 2011 4:03 pm
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Thanks again Billy & Dave. My bridge was definitely a little too high and the 6th string sounded dead around mid fret-board. I shaved a little off the bottom of my bridge inserts and problem solved. The bass string sings like a bird compared to before and the volume is now good. 
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Billy Gilbert
From:
Texas, USA
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Posted 18 Dec 2011 4:09 pm dobro bridge height
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| You are welcome Dennis. Glad to be of some help. These reso critters can be a little cranky at times but they can usually be straightened out. |
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Lynn Oliver
From:
Redmond, Washington USA * R.I.P.
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Posted 19 Dec 2011 1:16 pm
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There are different takes on the break angle. My Beard MA6 has the tailpiece raised, reducing the break angle, and I believe Paul Beard does this on at least some other models as well. The reduced load on the cone raises the bridge, which requires a higher palm rest for clearance.
It seems to work well on the MA6.
The tailpiece is raised by inserting a round rubber piece that is about 3/8" in diameter under the tailpiece. |
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Dave Thier
From:
Fairhope, Alabama, USA
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Posted 19 Dec 2011 2:10 pm
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Lynn, my Beard Odyssey has that round rubber piece under the tailpiece also. It only raises the tailpiece about 1/16 inch or less off the coverplate. I believe this is done to prevent the tailpiece from rattling on the coverplate and not specifically to raise the break angle. My Clinesmith uses a piece of cork to accomplish the same thing.
Dave |
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Lynn Oliver
From:
Redmond, Washington USA * R.I.P.
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Posted 19 Dec 2011 2:34 pm
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Paul Beard gave a presentation on setup here a few years ago at a festival, and he talked specifically about raising the tailpiece. He uses two different sizes of rubber pieces; it sounds like yours has the smaller of the two. IIRC, using the smaller size helps the strings stay in the slots better.
The tailpiece on my MA6 is about 1/4", maybe slightly less, off the cover plate.
I bought some of the rubber pieces from Paul and tried it on another instrument. It sounded good but didn't have enough clearance under the palm rest for the 6th string. |
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Dave Thier
From:
Fairhope, Alabama, USA
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Posted 19 Dec 2011 2:40 pm
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Your MA6 is different than my Odyssey. I've played MA6s before and never noticed the difference.
I'll have to get Paul's take on break angle the next time I run into him. Thanks.
Dave |
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Dennis Saydak
From:
Manitoba, Canada
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Posted 19 Dec 2011 3:50 pm
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Guys, my Dobro has a piece of velro under the tail piece to prevent rattling so other than that I believe I have a "standard" square neck set up. I installed a new set of inserts some time ago and I followed the advice on the Stewmac set up instruction ... make the inserts as high as possible under the palm rest without strings. The Dobro lost some volume compared to the original inserts. Strung up and tuned, a piece of 1/16" aitcraft plywood would not fit between the strings & palm rest from either side. After shaving the inserts, the plywood slides under the palm rest from the tail end until the high point stops it from going further. It won't slide under from the resonator side, but almost does. Next time I change strings I'll shave a little more off the inserts to see what effect this will have on volume. Then I'll know the optimum range for my instrument. Currently, I'm quite happy with my Dobro.
_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster. |
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Greg Booth
From:
Anchorage, AK, USA
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Posted 19 Dec 2011 10:50 pm
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I attended a workshop given by Paul Beard at IBMA a few years ago where he explained the different setups for Mike Auldridge's guitar compared to the Jerry Douglas model. He deliberately raises the tailpiece on the MAS to reduce the break angle and the down pressure on the cone. Paul feels that it allows the cone to travel more and produce more bass. Mike has a light touch and is not likely to knock the strings out of their slots. Jerry on the other hand, who reportedly used to wear out a plastic thumb pick per show with his attack, requires a higher break angle to keep the strings in place. I remove the palm rest on my resos so string height isn't limited by it and string changing is easier.
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Greg
Kathy Kallick Band
www.youtube.com/user/aksliderdobro |
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Dave Thier
From:
Fairhope, Alabama, USA
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Posted 20 Dec 2011 5:40 am
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Dennis - Glad you've got your sound where you like it!
Greg - Thanks for the explanation.
Dave |
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