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Topic: Need Opinions on ShoBud - UPDATED! |
Skip Ellis
From:
Bradenton, Fl USA
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Posted 27 Oct 2011 2:46 pm |
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Sorry, forgot to post the worst pic. Some of you may want to change your opinion.
Our local steel club was contacted by a lady who wishes to sell her late husband's ShoBud guitar. I told her I would post some pics and get an idea of what it's worth. It appears very rough to me but she said he had been playing it before his passing. Any thoughts are appreciated and will be passed on.
Here's the pics:
_________________
2022 Brook Lyn, 2014 Martin 000-18, 2022 Ibanez GB-10, two homebrew Teles, Evans RE200 amp, understanding wife of 49 years. 'Steeless' at the moment
Last edited by Skip Ellis on 28 Oct 2011 2:09 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Frank Freniere
From:
The First Coast
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Posted 27 Oct 2011 5:16 pm
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Try doing a "Sho-Bud" search in the "For Sale: Steel Guitars" section.
They're not making these anymore. It's an ideal candidate for a James Morehead refurb. |
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Chris LeDrew
From:
Canada
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Posted 27 Oct 2011 7:14 pm
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It's an early '70s rack and barrel 6139 round front, 3+2 with the levers raising/lowering the E's. Probably works fine within the constraints of what it is, although it has seen some moisture. The LKR is not a popular place to raise E's, so that would turn off some players. Of course it could be refurbished with 4 levers or whatnot.
If the seller is looking for maximum dollar value, Ebay is the best spot. With the VP, it would probably fetch a grand there. I'd pay $500-$600 for it, but not much more.
_________________
Jackson Steel Guitars
Web: www.chrisledrew.com |
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Ben Elder
From:
La Crescenta, California, USA
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Posted 27 Oct 2011 7:19 pm Dr. Mo'-Bud
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It's a 6139 model, post-1973. (My 1973 has volume and tone pots and a coil-tap switch on the rear deck; these went away sometime later.) With all the work this would need (refinish: add some more hundreds), I dunno, mid-high hundreds. The undercarriage will probably need to be completely torn down, de-corroded and reconstructed--lotta labor. Still a worthy project, but yeah, as Frank says, call Dr. Morehead. He has my '73 as we speak and miraculized my '72 D-10 a coupla years back.
(Might be some fun stuff among the box, books magazines and S-B volume pedal.)
_________________
"Gopher, Everett?" |
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Brint Hannay
From:
Maryland, USA
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Posted 27 Oct 2011 7:26 pm
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| Chris LeDrew wrote: |
| The LKR is not a popular place to raise E's, so that would turn off some players. |
Not so unpopular with "Day" setup players.  |
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Skip Edwards
From:
LA,CA
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Posted 27 Oct 2011 8:37 pm
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Looks to me like the LKR is lowering the E's.
This 6139 has lots of potential.
btw, in the first pic, what's that on the neck between the end of the fretboard and the changer surround? It looks ok in the last pic, but funny in the first pic... |
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Chris LeDrew
From:
Canada
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Posted 27 Oct 2011 8:56 pm
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| Brint Hannay wrote: |
| Chris LeDrew wrote: |
| The LKR is not a popular place to raise E's, so that would turn off some players. |
Not so unpopular with "Day" setup players. |
I checked for the switch-over on the pedals. 
Skip, on second look you're right.
_________________
Jackson Steel Guitars
Web: www.chrisledrew.com |
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Chris LeDrew
From:
Canada
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Posted 27 Oct 2011 8:58 pm
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| Skip Edwards wrote: |
btw, in the first pic, what's that on the neck between the end of the fretboard and the changer surround? It looks ok in the last pic, but funny in the first pic... |
Looks like a few strips of black tape that were removed for the last pic. Hard to say why they were there in the first place, though.
_________________
Jackson Steel Guitars
Web: www.chrisledrew.com |
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Richard Sinkler
From:
aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana
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Posted 27 Oct 2011 10:43 pm
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I would send it to Rick Campbell for a good power wash and then to James Morehead for a refurb/rebuild.
_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting. |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 1:48 pm
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Ben,
"It's a 6139 model, post-1973." Don't you mean PRE-1973? Weren't 73 to early 74 guitars, barrels behind two-hole pullers? I guess it could be fairly early 73? Not sure when they changed over???? And, of course, it's a ShoBud, so,,,,,,,?? And, I could very easily be completely mistaken!
R&B guitars are very easy to work on. As easy as it gets to change set-ups. You're only limited by the number of racks you have, and I'm sure one could use bellcranks with barrels, to add knee levers. Cleaning, and refurbishing the mechanical stuff is only a matter of hours to do. I just use aluminum paint on the racks, but you could get them, and the changer springs, cadmium plated. I polished my changer, keyhead, pedals etc., at home with just a bench buffer. The endplates and pedal rack bar went to a polishing/plating company downtown. The refinish is gonna be the time-consuming part. It looks like there's a dark stain on the "shelf." That might require some bleaching. I'd strip it, gently sand it, bleach if necessary. Then stain it a darker color if the bleach doesn't clear up any stains. It'd look nice dark red, or blue. Then again, that stain may just be surface dirt. |
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Ken Pippus
From:
Langford, BC, Canada
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 2:43 pm
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That last picture does change things a bit. Approaching a parts guitar pretty quickly.
KP |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 2:49 pm
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| Sheesh! Didn't see that one before. But a guy who's a decent tig welder can fix that, make it disappear. But that really, really effects the value of the guitar. I know a great tig welder, so I'd still consider it, but at a greatly reduced price! |
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Carson Leighton
From:
N.B. Canada
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 3:32 pm
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| I had one of those guitars..It looked exactly the same and it was a '71 I think..It had the most beautiful sound when I played it through a fender twin. I would say that this guitar should be re-done by someone who really knows sho-buds...As far as I'm concerned,,these are the steels that give the genuine sho-bud sound...Carson |
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Michael Yahl
From:
Troy, Texas!
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Posted 28 Oct 2011 4:07 pm
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OWWWEEE! That's gonna take a whole box of Flintstone bandaids!
That explains the chip in the lower right rear apron and the screw being moved up. I thought that the end plate looked a bit far out from the deck in the first picture. Oh, that's so sad....
Also "appears" that the pedal bar is bent but that could be due to distortion from a wide angle lens and actually not damaged.
Ok, lets give Skip an estimated price which is what he originally asked for.
Sho-Bud Pedal $100-125 if in good condition
Books and strings $80-120
Unknown Stuff $50?
Vintage Sho-Bud Guitar $300-400
Package $530-695
My opinion of course.
_________________
"Don't fergit to kiss yer horse!"
'72 Sho-Bud Professional D10, (in pieces .....), '78 MSA Classic XL D10, '69 Emmons PP, Fender 2000
Peavey Session 500 BW, Crate Digital Modeling Amp
PSG PARTS
http://www.psgparts.com/ |
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John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2011 2:29 pm
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| If someone buys it,,,, the tig welder must do the repair in several steps. If he welds and fills it all in one operation, the endplate is quite liable to warp. But it can be fixed, and will be invisible once polished. Been there. Done that. |
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Charlie Shifflett
From:
Colorado City, Texas, USA
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Posted 14 Nov 2011 2:24 pm 73 Shobud
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Boy I would like to no what happend to such a great guitar it looks like its been in a wreck or something. it would take a well gifted man to restore this guitar. just my thought. Charlie
_________________
Charlie 1969 Emmons p/p 8/5 old pevey ltd400
Thanks |
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Herb Steiner
From:
Briarcliff TX 78669, pop. 2,064
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Posted 14 Nov 2011 9:04 pm
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| Michael Yahl wrote: |
OWWWEEE! That's gonna take a whole box of Flintstone bandaids!
That explains the chip in the lower right rear apron and the screw being moved up. I thought that the end plate looked a bit far out from the deck in the first picture. Oh, that's so sad....
Also "appears" that the pedal bar is bent but that could be due to distortion from a wide angle lens and actually not damaged.
Ok, lets give Skip an estimated price which is what he originally asked for.
Sho-Bud Pedal $100-125 if in good condition
Books and strings $80-120
Unknown Stuff $50?
Vintage Sho-Bud Guitar $300-400
Package $530-695
My opinion of course. |
Y'all are being far more generous with that guitar than my personal opinions would ever allow me to be. It's not a rare guitar or a collectible. It was misused and abused, and allowed to rust. The neck doesn't fit to the pickup surround. The body needs to be refinished and we haven't seen the front apron yet. The metal is entirely corroded, the pedal rods bent, the endplate smashed. At least one screwhead visibly stripped out. It needs two more knee levers. God knows what all else is wrong unseen by the camera's eye. You really think the volume pedal is in good shape after seeing the rest of the guitar?
Anybody see a case, btw? That's another 200.
A pristine model of that guitar would sell for around 1200-1300. Paying $600 for that specimen, with all the work needed, would be exorbitant. Unless it was a labor of love sacrifice to save and restore a guitar that was one of thousands made during that era.
_________________
My rig: Infinity and Telonics.
Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg? |
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Kevin Hatton
From:
Buffalo, N.Y.
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Posted 14 Nov 2011 9:12 pm
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| I agree. It's a $250-$350 guitar at most. |
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chas smith R.I.P.
From:
Encino, CA, USA
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Posted 14 Nov 2011 10:08 pm
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| Quote: |
| If he welds and fills it all in one operation, the endplate is quite liable to warp. But it can be fixed, and will be invisible once polished. |
He'll be welding cast aluminum probably with 4043 rod. It will warp a little bit, depending on how he clamps it, and most likely, he'll weld it face down, first, then flip it over and fill in the face side. Most likely there will be a visible weld on the inside. After the face is smoothed and polished, if you look close, there will be a color and texture difference at the weld, because it's a different alloy than the cast. |
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