| Author |
Topic: Techniques for inverting steel into case |
John Gilman
From:
Jericho, VT USA
|
Posted 19 Aug 2011 10:23 pm |
|
Duh - stupid questions department calling. I'm just wondering if there is a consensus method for inverting a steel to put it in the case. Whenever I try the obvious --grab it by the legs and turn it over-- method, I find myself always dodging disaster. I figure there must be at least a few widely accepted techniques that have been developed over the years. I really don't want to ding up my pretty guitar, bend tuners, break strings, shear off switches. We seem to have every sort of person here in the world of steelers. Young and strong, old and tired, etc, etc. There's got to be a good way for us mere mortals to handle these Rube Goldberg monsters without destroying them. TIA for any help and advice
Gil |
|
|
 |
Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
|
Posted 19 Aug 2011 11:14 pm
|
|
I always bend over the top of the guitar from the front apron side, grabbing the keyhead side back-leg, and the changer-side front leg up high (where the leg screws into the end plate). Keeping the front apron as close into my body as possible, I let the guitar fall forward against my hips and flip it toward me in one continuous motion.
Once the guitar is inverted, I then let the guitar legs gently slip through my gripped fingers until it is poised an inch or two above the case, then I bend and lower it into the case.
Keeping the guitar in as close to the body as possible is important as it reduces the torque transmitted through your arms to your lumbar discs (reduces the risk of back injury). The "slip" part is not for beginners. It comes with years of setting up and breaking down your axe. You just develop a feel.
If this makes no sense, there's a couple of good pictures in the Winnie Winston book that demonstrate proper PSG set-up technique.
Last edited by Tony Glassman on 19 Aug 2011 11:16 pm; edited 1 time in total |
|
|
|
John Swindle
From:
Oregon, USA
|
Posted 19 Aug 2011 11:15 pm
|
|
Here's mine:
This picture is from the Mullen manual.
Make sure the legs are screwed in securely.
Grab a front leg at one end and a rear leg at the other. Grabbing the rear leg requires you to reach over the top, not around the end.
Each hand should be held as if shining a flashlight at the tips of the legs - not as if shining it up under the guitar.
Tilt the top toward you and carefully lift clear of any obstacles - furniture and stuff. Continue tilting until your imaginary flashlights are
pointing at the ceiling, and the guitar is upside-down. Don't forget to be careful of your back.
 |
|
|
|
Larry Bell
From:
Englewood, Florida
|
Posted 20 Aug 2011 7:19 am
|
|
What John said. Many weeks I'll have 3 or 4 one nighters and sometimes a session or two. You get GOOD at it. I can set up in less than 2 1/2 minutes and tear down quicker than that. I can remove two pedal rods with one motion on my Fessenden. It goes down really fast, even with 8 pedals.
Also, it's much easier on the back if you start with the case up in the air a bit. If I'm carrying two amps I'll set the case sturdily on top of the amps and assemble there, then grab a front leg with one hand and the opposite rear leg with the other and flip it over. (thumbs should always be pointing toward the rubber tips on the legs) Two chairs facing each other works ok too. For teardown, put the case on the amps again, grab the legs as above and set it into the case. Like Tony and John mention, stand in front of the guitar, flip it over, and put it in the case with the rear apron closest to you, properly aligned for the case. LIFT WITH YOUR ARMS AND/OR LEGS -- NOT YOUR BACK whenever possible. Elevating the case a couple of feet helps you lift with your arms instead of lower back. The straighter you can keep your back in the process, the better.
If not, you and your chiropractor will become good friends. I know from experience. I bought him a boat. 
_________________
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2021 Rittenberry S/D-12 8x7, 1976 Emmons S/D-12 7x6, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Quilter ToneBlock 202 TT-12 |
|
|
|
Jim Eaton
From:
Santa Susana, Ca
|
Posted 21 Aug 2011 1:32 pm
|
|
I'm with Larry on having the case sitting up on something both setting up and tearing down.
With the cover on my NV112 and my pack-a-seat turned on one end, put the case across them and it's pretty close to level and plenty stable.
JE:-)>
_________________
Emmons D10PP 8/4 -75'
Emmons S-10PP 3/4 - 79'
Emmons S-12PP 3/4 -78'
MSA Legend SD12 5/5 -06'
Mullen S-12 4/5 - 1986
Nashville 112 x2 W/Knob Guards - Don't leave home with out one!
Walker SS rack system - 12"BW's
Quilter Steelaire Combo |
|
|
|
Jack Aldrich
From:
Washington, USA
|
Posted 21 Aug 2011 1:40 pm
|
|
| Ditto for me. - Jack |
|
|
|
John Gilman
From:
Jericho, VT USA
|
Posted 21 Aug 2011 1:53 pm
|
|
Thanks for all the info. I guess, just like most things pedal steel, it's all a matter of practice practice practice. At least I can see that I'm on the right track. Just have to be careful until I get better at it. The old MSA was aluminum and mica. The new bud is all purty wood - hate to mess it up.
Gil |
|
|
|
Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
|
Posted 21 Aug 2011 2:15 pm
|
|
| +1 with the elevated case for set-up/tear-down. |
|
|
|
Carl Kilmer
From:
East Central, Illinois
|
Posted 21 Aug 2011 4:29 pm
|
|
When you're old and in my shape, do it the easy way.
Always take your wife or a friend with you. Then you
both grab an end, lift and flip and put into the case.
It sure makes it feel lighter, and is easy on the back.
Thank God for wonderful wives that like to help. 
Carl
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal |
|
|
|
