steel difference

Bernie McCrary · From: Florida, USA

I bought a steel from Scotty's in St Louis. It was new for about $1100. Can some of you experts out there tell me what the difference is between a $1100. steel and a $4000. steel guitar? Does it sound better or is it easier to play. Just curious?
Is it like what they say, (You get what you pay for)?
Thanks
Bernie

Dennis Saydak · From: Manitoba, Canada

Well, that's an easy question to answer. The $4000.00 steel already knows all sorts of licks and tricks wheras the $1000.00 steel needs to be taught all of them from scratch. Therefore, there is a shorter learning curve with the $4000.00 steel. Laughing

_________________
Dennis
Just when you think you're getting ahead in the rat race, the rats get faster.

Carl Kilmer · From: East Central, Illinois

Hi Bernie,
You didn't mention what kind it is, but seeing the price of $1100
as new, it is a student model. There is usually a lot of difference
between a Pro model and a student model in the way they are built,
the number of pedals, the quality of parts and material used, etc.
A student model is good to learn with and see if you'll stick with it.
Yes, as usual it like what they say, (You get what you pay for) but,
you you don't have to spend $4000 for a top of the line Pro steel. Smile

Check the forum, there's always Pro steels that will save lots of $$$
Carl
_________________
aka "Lucky Kay"--Custom built Rittenberry SD10 3X5, Walker S/S, NV-112, and Hilton Pedal

Andy Sandoval · From: Bakersfield, California, USA

I agree with Carl, BTW, what did you buy Bernie?

Larry Bell · From: Englewood, Florida

I have an $1100 and a $4000 guitar. The $1100 (actually it was $1050 in Jan of 2000) guitar is my favorite guitar of all I have ever owned -- and the least expensive. It is worth much more now -- I have restored it a bit -- it's an old 12 string push-pull Emmons -- and set it up to my preference but the point is that there are deals out there. Some folks will sell the same item for less than others.

Treat each guitar as an individual. If it sounds and plays like YOU want it to, it is a valuable instrument for YOU, regardless what you pay for it.

Some of the price is in materials -- a nice hunk of wood that will look good as a lacquer guitar might cost more than a plain piece of maple covered in mica. More pedals and levers add to the cost, as well as other features you may want or need -- like compensators, tunable splits, and stuff like that.
_________________
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2021 Rittenberry S/D-12 8x7, 1976 Emmons S/D-12 7x6, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Quilter ToneBlock 202 TT-12

Dave Hopping · From: Aurora, Colorado

The difference between Bernie's $1100 steel and a $4K professional model is much the same as the difference between a Piper Cub and a P-51.

Theresa Galbraith · From: Goodlettsville,Tn. USA

Bernie,
Yes, you get what you pay for!

Bernie McCrary · From: Florida, USA

I can not find a manufacture name on it. It has GFI on it but I sent that to Scotty and he said that it is not the name. It is an E9, three peddle, 4 knee, and lots of worn strings from trying to play the darn thing. These untrained fingers just won't do the right thing when they are suppose to. Guess I need to eat more finger food. Will that help???

Thanks for answering.
Bernie

John Bresler R.I.P. · From: Thornton, Colorado

Hey, Bernie:

Post some pictures of your steel (also include undercarriage pics)and I bet there are folks right here on the forum that can help you with figuring out who the manufacturer is.

Cool

Bernie McCrary · From: Florida, USA

OK John
Let me see what I can do. Will be tomorrow.
Thank you
Bernie

Bernie McCrary · From: Florida, USA

Georg Sørtun · From: Mandal, Agder, Norway

GFI Student Model.

Ned McIntosh · From: New South Wales, Australia

Georg is right, it's a GFI student model, fully-loaded with 3 and 4.

It will play all right and sound okay, and if you get good enough it will almost certainly sound a great deal better than just "okay". The main thing is it will get you started in the arcane world of E9th steel-guitar, and with 4 knee-levers you'll not run into limitations which arise if you only have one (shudder!) or two knee-levers.

It will be lightweight, easy to carry, fast to set up, it will stay in tune once properly set up (the changer appears to be a pull-release changer, but I could be wrong) and there will be parts, service and technical support available. Additionally, it will be easy to keep clean and lubricated since there isn't a lot of additional "clutter" around the changer itself.

You haven't bought a type of citrus fruit not generally known for its sweetness of taste. It definitely isn't a $4k guitar, but once you acquire some skill it might be very difficult for someone hearing it to tell how much it actually cost. If you have ability you could make it sound like a $4k guitar. It doesn't play itself; you have to give it voice, you have to make it come alive.

Ultimately, what a steel-guitar costs is secondary to the single most important question; how well does it sound? If it sounds good, then its value to you will be far greater than the $1100 you paid. This represents an investment in your future enjoyment, and it wouldn't surprise me in the slightest if you found you have invested rather better than you thought you did.

Of course, now you're hooked and it will be next to impossible to stop at one! Very Happy

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The steel guitar is a hard mistress. She will obsess you, bemuse and bewitch you. She will dash your hopes on what seems to be whim, only to tease you into renewing the relationship once more so she can do it to you all over again...and yet, if you somehow manage to touch her in that certain magic way, she will yield up a sound which has so much soul, raw emotion and heartfelt depth to it that she will pierce you to the very core of your being.

Larry Bell · From: Englewood, Florida

The advice that Ned and others have given is excellent. Just a few further thoughts . . .

A trap many of us fall into is blaming the equipment when working on technique and knowledge of music and how it applies to the instrument would be a better use of the time and resources. You have WAAAY more guitar than many of us started out on. An experienced player could make that guitar sound great. There's nothing that will substitute for cockpit time on this instrument.

You didn't mention whether you plan on playing gigs with it. If you play for your own enjoyment and amusement you call all the shots. If you aspire to play in a band there will be other songs and styles that you may not have learned on your own. Interacting with other musicians (once you have achieved some level of competence) is a lesson that can't be bought.

I have seen some of the top players in the world play some stuff on a six string lap steel that absolutely amazed me. It ain't the meat, it's the MOTION.

Enjoy that guitar. The journey toward learning it will be much easier if you find a teacher, even if just for a few lessons to get you started. Go out and hear as many local players as you can.

The techniques involved are more difficult than for many other instruments. Start out learning to make a SINGLE NOTE sound as good as you can. Then graduate to two harmony notes, then a chord. Concentrate on tone and intonation (playing in tune) and learn to play with confidence. Those skills are much more important to how you sound than the guitar you are playing.
_________________
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2021 Rittenberry S/D-12 8x7, 1976 Emmons S/D-12 7x6, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Quilter ToneBlock 202 TT-12

Bernie McCrary · From: Florida, USA

I appreciate the encouraging words. I am not a beginner and I did take lessons years ago. Wish I had stayed with it. I have been practicing now for the last two years. Almost every day. I have band-in-a-box and I can play with some of the songs. I love it! Just wish I could go back a few years and catch up. I just thought a better guitar might make a difference. But your kind words have convienced me that I am OK at least for the time being.

Thank you again.
Bernie

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

Larry Bell said:

Kevin Hatton · From: Buffalo, N.Y.

The 4K guitar comes with a complimentery drink holder. The most important feature.

Jack Aldrich · From: Washington, USA

When I was looking to upgrade my old ShoBud, I looked at a lot of guitars. The top of the line ones are Sierras, like buying a Cadillace. I settler for a Carted D-10 with 8 & 5 for $2500, which plays as good as the Sierra, imho, but doesn't have fancy inlays, keyless tuners and other bells and whistles. It's a screamer, tho. Sierras run about $4k for the same setup. A higher priced instrument is more flexible, that is, you can move pedals and knees around easily, and they are easier ot adjust. I have a friend who bought a Carter Starter with a CBA pedal steup instead of the usual ABC setup. Since most instruction material uses ABC, he had a great deal of trouble getting started. He payed $800 for it on e-bay,

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

Dang Kevin. I have purchased many $4000 guitars and not one of them had a drink holder. Crying or Very sad

_________________
Carter D10 8p/8k, Dekley S10 3p/4k C6 setup,Regal RD40 Dobro, Recording King Professional Dobro, NV400, NV112,Ibanez Gio guitar, Epiphone SG Special (open D slide guitar) . Playing for 55 years and still counting.

Mark van Allen · From: Watkinsville, Ga. USA

Jack Aldrich · From: Washington, USA

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