| Author |
Topic: Tree Sap On My Steel |
Michael Remming
From:
Kimberly, Idaho, USA (deceased)
|
Posted 9 Jul 2011 8:02 am |
|
| Played an outdoor gig last weekend. The stage was shaded by some nice trees but now I've got sap all over my lacquer MSA. Any ideas on how to safely remove the sap? Thanks |
|
|
 |
George McLellan
From:
Duluth, MN USA
|
Posted 9 Jul 2011 8:52 am
|
|
I don't know if this is safe or not but I use tooth paste on my hands to remove balsam or any other pine pitch.
Bill Rudolph of Williams Steel Guitars might be able to help you. He's listed in the links to manufactures.
Geo |
|
|
|
David Nugent
From:
Gum Spring, Va.
|
Posted 9 Jul 2011 9:26 am
|
|
| Michael..."Goo Gone" may work, it does a decent job with removing residual glue from decals,etc. Note: It should not react negatively with the lacquer, but to make certain, it may be adviseable to try it on a small test spot first before tackling the entire project. |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 9 Jul 2011 9:32 am
|
|
Ping Jim Sliff. He knows all about solvents, and will know the correct one to use.
JB |
|
|
|
Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
|
Posted 9 Jul 2011 10:11 am
|
|
Thanks to John for emailing me!
Goo Gone might be OK...but I always test it first on lacquers. A few coatings are labeled (or called by the applicator) "lacquer" that aren't, and Goo Gone will be Finish Gone...
The safest thing to use would be VM&P Naphtha - otherwise known as lighter fluid. Just pick up a $1.99 squeeze bottle of Ronson Lighter Fluid, use an old sock or cotton t-shirt, apply the solvent to the cloth and wipe...or rub if the sap has hardened. Watch for particles in the sap though - they will scratch the finish, so if you see any little dark (or light) specks in it go gently. After removal the finish should look perfectly normal. *IF* it's cloudy at all (really unusual) it's actually an acrylic coating with a bit of trapped moisture - let it dry for a few days, then use Turtle Wax or another "polishing compound" (NOT rubbing compound) to shine it back up.
99.9% of the time the sap will be removed and nothing else.
Naphtha is great to have around - it's the best thing for cleaning oil gummed-up oil out of changers, removing sticker glue residue and general cleaning of painted or bare metal parts and painted/clear-coated wood.
DO NOT USE TOOTHPASTE!!!!
ALL toothpastes have a mild abrasive, and you WILL be polishing...seriously polishing...to try to get the affected area to look like the rest of the guitar.
Same goes for rubbing compound.
And if you have a gummed-up changer and clean it with lighter fluid, do yourself and your guitar a big favor - don't ever let oil near it again. Use dry Teflon lube and you'll never have the dirt attraction, gumminess and sticky movement related to old oil. 15 years ago light-viscosity oils were about the only suitable lube - nowadays there are absolutely no reasons at all to use oils of any kind - they cause more harm than good.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
|
|
|
John Billings
From:
Ohio, USA
|
Posted 9 Jul 2011 10:16 am
|
|
Thanks for the quick reply, Jim! I knew you'd know!
JB |
|
|
|
Michael Remming
From:
Kimberly, Idaho, USA (deceased)
|
Posted 9 Jul 2011 12:49 pm All Gone
|
|
| Thanks for everyones help. I thought I would first start with my old standby Pledge (Specialty Surfaces) Commercial Line. I have used this for years for cleaning car interiors to the windshield on my motorcycle anyway I used it liberally with a micro fiber cloth and amazingly it worked took of all the sap and polished the finish as well. Thanks again! Mike |
|
|
|
Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
|
Posted 10 Jul 2011 9:42 pm Tree sap on my steel
|
|
| What kind of tree was it?-? If it was a pine, spruce or hemlock. Since turpintine is made from pine rosin that would be your best bet. It cuts a lot of other tree saps since it is natural. Try it on a bottom edge of the steel to make sure it won't damage the finish. Before you go up on top with it. Used it on my uniforms for years to get sticky sap out of my uniforms. Good Luck and Happy Steelin. |
|
|
|
Ron Pruter
From:
Arizona, USA
|
Posted 11 Jul 2011 2:27 am
|
|
I know it sounds scarey, but I'm 99% sure paint thinner will work fine. Mineral spirits (same thing). We use to use it in car detailing to remove tar with out a second thought. Caution!!! Not Lacquer thinner. Ron
_________________
Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
|
|
|
Per Berner
From:
Skovde, Sweden
|
Posted 11 Jul 2011 5:07 am
|
|
| My guess is that a bottle of Insect Remover from any gas station would do the trick; or just soapy water. |
|
|
|
Chip Fossa
From:
Monson, MA, USA (deceased)
|
Posted 11 Jul 2011 5:40 am
|
|
WD-40 or Liquid Wrench will dissolve the sap. If it's hardened up, you may have to let it sit for a bit. It should not affect the laquer. I've used it on a D-16 Martin with no ill effects.
It would still be good, after all is removed and the reisdual solvent wiped up, to polish the affected area.
_________________
Chip
Williams U-12 8X5; Keyless; Natural Blonde Laquer. |
|
|
|
Peter Harris
From:
South Australia, Australia
|
Posted 11 Jul 2011 6:22 am
|
|
Well...it's probably all just academic now, since the job's been done...but Down Here we have this magic, natural stuff called Eucalyptus Oil...yep, it comes from Gum Trees, which we have just a few of... 
Apart from being an inhalant for colds and flu, cleaning and freshening laundry, easing muscular aches and pains, it also removes stains, grease and tar 
...and it doesn't harm most surfaces.....might take a couple of days to get rid of the gum tree smell after you use it, but it sure beats flooding delicate and important things with chemicals... and your sinuses will love you again!
Only downside is that it doesn't seem to fix politicians.. |
|
|
|
Glenn Uhler
From:
Trenton, New Jersey, USA
|
Posted 11 Jul 2011 3:57 pm Shade Trees?
|
|
If they were "shade trees" (the kind with leaves) then the sap, which is mostly sugar, should come off with soap and water. If they were pine trees (with needles), then you will need the lighter fluid or odorless mineral spirits.
_________________
1974 Marlen S-12 1968 Tele 1969 Martin D-35H |
|
|
|
Dan Beller-McKenna
From:
Durham, New Hampshire, USA
|
Posted 11 Jul 2011 6:33 pm
|
|
FWIW: vegetable oil is very good for getting pine sap, oil paint, or just about anything sticky off your hands. I imagine it would work on a steel and can't think of why it would hurt the lacquer (but those sound suspiciously like famous last words....)
Dan |
|
|
|
Jim Priebe
From:
Queensland, Australia - R.I.P.
|
Posted 11 Jul 2011 10:42 pm Gum Tree Sap
|
|
Yep! Peter's right
If you can get/buy eucalyptus oil it will do the trick with NO damage to the surface.
It is brilliant for removing any gum (cellotape and duct tape residue), removing windscreen stickers, kid's stickers, road tar et al.
Also make your steel smell like a koala's er rear end.(downside).
priebs
_________________
Priebs GFI ('09)Short-Uni10. GFI ('96)Short-Uni SD11. ('86)JEM U12
www.steelguitardownunder.com |
|
|
|
Peter Harris
From:
South Australia, Australia
|
Posted 12 Jul 2011 5:10 am
|
|
Sorry...
I forgot the bit about the Koala...  |
|
|
|
Steven Stewart
From:
Kentucky, USA
|
Posted 13 Jul 2011 4:35 am Gooo Be Gone
|
|
| sold at wall mart good stuf |
|
|
|
