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Author Topic:  B pedal question
William Johnson


From:
Statesboro, Georgia, USA
Post  Posted 27 Jun 2011 8:38 am    
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Do most players set-up the B pedal so it's lower to floor than the A pedal? I often do this to reduce the amount of ankle twist or roll to fully release the B pedal without running into the LKL lever? But, if I go to far then its harder to 'roll' into the AB 4 chord with the B pedal leading the way, if it's lower than the A! So, it's a catch either way. AM I looking at this wrong? What about B related to the C pedal?

I speed way to much time trying to improve my left footl/ankle movements in regard to the B pedal. The LKL and LKR lever typical long travel distance often forces me to position them (L Levers) kicked into the center so my knee movements feel more natural. Well, when the above is done, it reduces the available space to execute the left ankle twist or roll, right? So, here I am again! I about to think, that it's basic design characteristic (or limitation) of today's PSG guitars, and it is what it is. Surely, I am not the only one thinking this, and one day I would guess it'll be addressed with new PSG designs. I think it is fertile soil for PSG manufacturers, unless it's a hang-up I am personally experiencing and very few other do. Current PSG designs favor youth with their more flexible ankles, feet & knees. Most all have seen narrow floor pedals, extreme relationships between L Levers and floor pedals, and Day set-ups, which in a large part was partially addressing the my above concerns.

Anyways, enough of my rambling on. All have a great day.
_________________
William Johnson (Billy)
Statesboro, GA

Sho Bud Student / Emmons DB E9
Sierra DB E9 / ZUM DB E9 / Derby DB E9 Marlen E9 / BMI E9

Mosrite Ventures '69 / Gibson Cherry ES345 / Custom 'Billie-Tele' Telecaster / Gibson '78 J45 / Custom 'P-Strat' Squire Stratocaster / Epi Parlor

Fender '69 Deluxe Reverb / Peavey NV400 + Peavey TubeFex + Goodrich 7A MatchBox & Pedal
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 27 Jun 2011 8:53 am    
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billy...all you can do is keep tweeking your pedals and levers into the position that feels most comfortable to you and makes it easiest to deploy either/both to the full stop position.
i recently moved some of my warn pedals to lesser used positions and now i'm having a struggle, also, fine tuning to that perfect placement. you just have to work on it for awhile. taking it out to play somewhere, it always feels slightly different than at home. you have to battle test it.
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Herby Wallace


From:
Sevierville, TN, R.I.P.
Post  Posted 27 Jun 2011 8:54 am     B Pedal
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William, I always set my A pedal higher than the B pedal for this reason. Also, the new G2 Mullen plays so well with the ball bearings built in that it is the best feeling guitar I have ever played. I had a stroke about 5 years ago and both of my ankles are stiff and not as flexible as they once were, and I have played many guitars but again the new Mullen G2 is by far the best feeling in that respect.

Herby Wallace
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chris ivey


From:
california (deceased)
Post  Posted 27 Jun 2011 8:56 am    
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.....and i think most people end up with varying heights of the pedals, not level with each other in the up position. i try to get them close to level in the down position, depending on the action of my foot/ankle.
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William Johnson


From:
Statesboro, Georgia, USA
Post  Posted 27 Jun 2011 10:34 am     Pedal and lever mechanics
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Hello,

My old BMI has 3 locations on each floor pedal to which each linkage (A, B or C) can attach to, each varying in the distance from the floor pedal pivot axle. I am using the position furthest from the floor pedal pivot point, because it requires less pedal travel to reach cross-rod stop. I think I said that correctly.

On the changer fingers, my old BMI has only 2 raises and 2 lowers. Which slot or hole on a given string is faster or has less rotational travel?

Mechanically speaking, what determines if the PSG is a pull-pull or push-pull , etc? I know (or i think i do) that pull or push refers to how the strings are lowered, correct? All raises are pulled, correct? Depending on design, some guitars also pull the lowers, correct?

Just trying to better understand how PSGs work.

Thanks,
_________________
William Johnson (Billy)
Statesboro, GA

Sho Bud Student / Emmons DB E9
Sierra DB E9 / ZUM DB E9 / Derby DB E9 Marlen E9 / BMI E9

Mosrite Ventures '69 / Gibson Cherry ES345 / Custom 'Billie-Tele' Telecaster / Gibson '78 J45 / Custom 'P-Strat' Squire Stratocaster / Epi Parlor

Fender '69 Deluxe Reverb / Peavey NV400 + Peavey TubeFex + Goodrich 7A MatchBox & Pedal


Last edited by William Johnson on 27 Jun 2011 11:16 am; edited 1 time in total
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Dave Grafe


From:
Hudson River Valley NY
Post  Posted 27 Jun 2011 11:15 am    
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Speaking only for myself, YES.
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Brint Hannay

 

From:
Maryland, USA
Post  Posted 27 Jun 2011 11:26 am     Re: Pedal and lever mechanics
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William Johnson wrote:
Hello,

My old BMI has 3 locations on each floor pedal to which each linkage (A, B or C) can attach to, each varying in the distance from the floor pedal pivot axle. I am using the position furthest from the floor pedal pivot point, because it requires less pedal travel to reach cross-rod stop. I think I said that correctly.

On the changer fingers, my old BMI has only 2 raises and 2 lowers. Which slot or hole on a given string is faster or has less rotational travel?

Mechanically speaking, what determines if the PSG is a pull-pull or push-pull , etc? I know (or i think i do) that pull or push refers to how the strings are lowered, correct? All raises are pulled, correct? Depending on design, some guitars also pull the lowers, correct?

Just trying to better understand how PSGs work.

Thanks,

MOST guitars also pull the lowers ("all-pull"). The push-pull design is confined almost entirely to "original" design (pre-Legrande) Emmons guitars (discontinued in the Eighties(?)) and Promat guitars, made in small numbers in Europe, which are Emmons clones.

At the changer, the hole closest to the axle has the shortest travel for a given pull.
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