What is a substitute for F lever?

Ray Anderson · From: Jenkins, Kentucky USA

Good morning Forumites, I have a small problem and I know that out there somewhere lurking in the minds of some of you is an answer and/or solution. Unsure of the brand (and so is every one else that I have talked to about it). A guitar that is a pull-release( I think), a D-10 3x8,that does not raise the E's, that lever is set to operate #7 string lowers I think, but moving on to the issue, I was wondering how I could substitute and still be able to play. Iam a newbie and I am learning with Emmons set up on my other guitars, but this guitar plays and sounds so smooth that I enjoy playing it. Would this hinder my learning process or enhance it by diversifying it by "thinking outside of the box"? I plan on setting this up on Emmons set up as soon as I can find parts to do so. Any help on this issue will be greatly appreciated. Confused

Ray Anderson · From: Jenkins, Kentucky USA

Anyone that looks at this and recognizes this set up or can give any information on it, I would be greatful for your help. I need parts for the LKL lever to complete the F lever, if you recognize and have any parts that would work or know anyone that does, feel free to contact me. It needs 1 bellcrank and 1 rod and associated hardware to be complete. If you need measurements I can do that. This is a guitar that I bought to set up at Church so I wouldn't have to break it down every time I was finished playing. I really need some help on this issue, I have no place to turn to in this area where I live for help or parts and such. When you mention steel guitar here, it is like being other than White at a Klan rally, if you know what I mean. Rolling Eyes

Dave Mudgett · From: Central Pennsylvania and Gallatin, Tennessee

You can get double-stops by slanting the bar to get the note that you'd usually get by hitting the F-lever. For example, a common move with the F-lever is to get the inversion of a pedals-up chord at fret X by moving 3 frets up and hitting the A-pedal plus the F-lever at fret X+3. For example, on strings 8/5, you get the 1/5 respectively of an Emaj chord at the nut. If you hit A+F at the 3rd fret, you get 3/octave-1 of that same chord. If you don't have the F-lever, you can just hit the A-pedal plus slant to hit string 8 at the 4th fret and string 5 at the 3rd fret to get the same thing. The disadvantage is that string 6 for the full triad will generally be too out of tune to use. But this gets the basic sound of that inversion.

Personally, I would sacrifice any other lever to get the F-lever - for me, it's the most important lever on the guitar. On E9, I think you can do just fine with the usual 3 pedals: A (raise 5/10 two steps), B (raise 6/3 one step), C (raise 5/4 two steps), plus just 3 knee levers: the F-lever (raise 4/8 one step), E-lever (lower 4/8 one step), and D-lever (lower 2 one or two steps, lower 9 one step). One can spend years learning how to mine new ideas out of that basic setup.

My take.

Ray Anderson · From: Jenkins, Kentucky USA

Now that's what I'm talking about, I had never given thought to that idea. But I will give that a go, thanks a bunch I will let you know how it works out. Ray Very Happy

Tony Glassman · From: The Great Northwest

You need that 4th knee lever.

Just take the guitar to a local machine shop and ask them how much they'd charge to fabricate a knee lever handle and bracket. Also, I'm sure you can find some used bell-cranks & pull rods from another builder that may not match cosmetically, but will function overall.

Ray Anderson · From: Jenkins, Kentucky USA

Tony the lever is there, I need a bellcrank and the proper length rod. I have seen the undercarriages of MSA guitars and they look identical. I need someone that sales these parts to contact me and I will give measurements and specs to check their inventory. I can install and be tuned in a couple of hours and be up to par. I know these shafts and such are all common stock and sizes, I just need a supplier and some basic instruction. Iam pay-pal ready and will be willing to purchase at a reasonabble price. HELP HELP HELP PLLLLLEEEEAAAASSSSEE Rolling Eyes

Olie Eshleman · From: Seattle, WA

I'm not sure what era MSA you're referring to, but I just bought bellcranks from Jim Palenscar for my MSA Classic. You can also get them from Tom Bradshaw. Either of those fine gents can help you out. Can't recommend either their skills and help enough.

Jim Palenscar:

http://www.steelguitars.me/

Tom Bradshaw

http://www.songwriter.com/bradshaw/

Richard Sinkler · From: aka: Rusty Strings -- Missoula, Montana

t would probably help someone identify the guitar if you posted a pic of the front and top of the guitar.
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Jerry Erickson · From: Atlanta,IL 61723

For the rods, you could use 1/8" rod from the hardware store. George L's sells collars that would fit.

http://www.georgelsstore.com/steelacc.html

Mike Perlowin · From: Los Angeles CA

b0b · From: Cloverdale, CA, USA

I often use a bar slant to substitute for the F lever, even though I have an F lever. Especially on slow songs, the slant has more expression and feeling. I do the F slant to harmonize either of the E strings with the middle G# (6th string), or to harmonize the low E (8th string) with either B string.
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Ray Anderson · From: Jenkins, Kentucky USA

Thanks to all that made suggestions and all that I've tried worked. But thanks to Tom Bradshaw, Who has in his diligence to accomodate has mustered up enough parts to fix my raise lever. So it won't be long now. I am a happy camper, but I will have to get you guys to help tune the peddles and levers, I'm kind of a lost ball in high weeds on P/P and such. Thanks again, Very Happy

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