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Topic: LeGrande 2 not quite getting to pitch |
Ken Byng
From:
Southampton, England
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Posted 11 May 2010 11:28 am |
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I have recently acquired an Emmons LeGrande 2 SD 10. Great guitar. One thing I can't get it to do however. RKL to raise 1st string on E9 from F# to G#. The reason is the black block that forms the stop doesn't allow the note to go far past the note of G. I have put the rod on the top hole of the puller, and in the furthest hole on the changer finger from the axle.
Any ideas, or do I need to remove some of the stopping block to get more travel?
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Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 11 May 2010 11:40 am
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Ken, is there not an adjustment screw in the stop block so you can control the amount of travel?
If not, there should be...
Could you show a pic?
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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Ryan Barwin
From:
Hamilton, Ontario, Canada
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Posted 11 May 2010 11:50 am
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What gauge string are you using? That could affect it.
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www.pedalsteel.ca |
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richard burton
From:
Britain
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Posted 11 May 2010 12:15 pm
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Ken,
For the most travel, you need to have the rod in the nearest hole to the changer axle, and the furthest hole from the knee lever axle. |
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Doug Palmer
From:
Greensboro, North Carolina, USA
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Posted 11 May 2010 12:24 pm back stop
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Should just back off the back stop to give you more travel and start over.
DP
_________________
Emmons D-10, ST-10,LD-10 III, NV-112,Fender Deluxe Reverb. Authorized wholesale dealer musicorp.com! |
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Freddie Wooton
From:
London, ky
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Posted 11 May 2010 8:11 pm LeGrande II not going to pitch
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| Ken, I've owned several LG's And I have always had to grind the stopping block just a little to get them to go to pitch.It's always worked for me. Fred |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 11 May 2010 8:43 pm
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| richard burton wrote: |
Ken,
For the most travel, you need to have the rod in the nearest hole to the changer axle, and the furthest hole from the knee lever axle. |
+1 |
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Paul E. Brennan
From:
Dublin, Ireland
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Posted 12 May 2010 1:04 am
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| Quote: |
Ken,
For the most travel, you need to have the rod in the nearest hole to the changer axle, and the furthest hole from the knee lever axle. |
And +1 again.
I had the same trouble on my Legrande I. The only problem is that the rod comes into the changer at a steep angle pressing the end of the hex nut up against the roof of the end plate. This makes getting the tuning wrench on the hex nut difficult. |
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J Hollenberg
From:
Vlaardingen, The Netherlands
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Posted 12 May 2010 6:30 am RKL F# to G#
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I have a Emmons SD 10 and I use the RKL lever for 3 strings. F# to G# - Eb to E and G# to F#.
I didn't have to modify anything. It works perfect.
I am using a 0.13 for the first string, 0.15 for the second and a 0.20 for the sixth.
Hope this helps.
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Sjaak Hollenberg
Emmons Lashley LeGrande SD10 from 1993 |
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Adair Torres
From:
Sao Paulo, Brazil
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Posted 12 May 2010 7:28 pm
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Thats what I did on That stop block of My Legrand II
_________________
Adair Torres - Boss at TowerS Steel Guitars
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Zum D10 8X7 Wineberry 2010.
Emmons SD10 3X8 Black 1994.
Derby D10 8X8 Rosewood 2008.
TowerS SD10 3X5 Imbuia Mica Finish 2018 |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Earnest Bovine
From:
Los Angeles CA USA
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Posted 13 May 2010 7:56 am
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| Bent Romnes wrote: |
| Hey y'all, it simply amazes me that Emmons would not install adjustable stops. Most guitars have those do they not? |
Stops on a Zum are all fixed, not adjustable. Part of the knee lever, or the crank at the top of the pedal rod, hits a piece of hard nylon (or something).
I think this is a good idea. That's one less thing that can go wrong and make your pedals pull out of tune.
The range of rotation can be adjusted at the other end; i.e. where it starts rather than where it stops. |
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Bent Romnes
From:
London,Ontario, Canada
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Posted 13 May 2010 9:51 am
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Ernest, Here are 2 pics of a Zum. Notice the stops on the knee levers - long screw with nylon nut on the end that the lever strikes.
This can hardly go wrong since the screw has a nut on it and is unmovable when tightened.
_________________
BenRom Pedal Steel Guitars
https://www.facebook.com/groups/212050572323614/ |
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Herb Steiner
From:
Briarcliff TX 78669, pop. 2,064
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Posted 14 May 2010 5:26 am
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| Paul E. Brennan wrote: |
| I had the same trouble on my Legrande I. The only problem is that the rod comes into the changer at a steep angle pressing the end of the hex nut up against the roof of the end plate. This makes getting the tuning wrench on the hex nut difficult. |
The changer rod should have a "Z" bend somewhere along its length to allow the nylon nut to have a more level approach when it reaches the changer finger. Very common fix.
_________________
My rig: Infinity and Telonics.
Son, we live in a world with walls, and those walls have to be guarded by men with steel guitars. Who's gonna do it? You? You, Lt. Weinberg? |
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Jerry Roller
From:
Van Buren, Arkansas USA
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Posted 14 May 2010 9:56 pm
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You should not overlook the possibility of the lower return spring not being tight enough. Chack to make sure the lowering finger is not pulling away from the stop before the raise is completed. Hold the finger where the spring attaches firmly against the stop not allowing it to move and see if the string don't have plenty of raise. It could be raising and then start lowering before the raise is complete.
Jerry |
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Tony Glassman
From:
The Great Northwest
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Posted 15 May 2010 8:55 am
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| Jerry Roller wrote: |
You should not overlook the possibility of the lower return spring not being tight enough. Chack to make sure the lowering finger is not pulling away from the stop before the raise is completed. Hold the finger where the spring attaches firmly against the stop not allowing it to move and see if the string don't have plenty of raise. It could be raising and then start lowering before the raise is complete.
Jerry |
.....also, +1 |
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Jack Strayhorn
From:
Winston-Salem, NC
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Posted 16 May 2010 4:51 pm
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| As posted earlier, rod nearest pivot at changer and farthest at crossbar. Back off the backstop screw located at back of cabinet apron. The rod will need a bend so that the nylon tuner is not hitting the endplate. String guage should be at least a .012. |
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Ken Byng
From:
Southampton, England
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Posted 17 May 2010 8:36 am
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Thanks guys. I have just got back from a gigging holiday. I really appreciate the helpful comments. I will have a go at the LG2 this evening.
_________________
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
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Ken Byng
From:
Southampton, England
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Posted 7 Mar 2011 4:37 am
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This is an old post, but I just wanted to say that Adair Torres's solution above has worked perfectly in this case.
The reference to Zum guitars - they have adjustments on both knee levers travel and pedal throw.
_________________
Show Pro D10 - amber (8+6), MSA D10 Legend XL Signature - redburst (9+6), Sho-Bud Pro 111 Custom (8+6), Emmons black Push-Pull D10 (8+5), Zum D10 (8x8), Hudson pedal resonator. Telonics TCA-500, Webb 614-E, |
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