Marlen Pull Release setup information?

Dave Yustin · From: Vermont, USA

I have a Marlen S-10 that was setup by Paul Redmond. It's been a great sounding guitar. Now I'm having a minor issue since replacing strings a few times. I know these are gauge sensitive and have tried to use the same gauge every time. And I've looked over other info on the Forum from various members. There's alot of helpful info on the tuning procedure and I've used it. However, they all make a point of stating that the procedures will work "If the guitar is setup properly".
That's the information I'm trying to learn. I hate the thought of sending the guitar out every time I can't figure something out. My current problem is that after the most recent string replacement, some of the pedals/levers don't return like they used to. And IU'm running out of adjustment on strings 2 and 9. They're "lower only" strings. I can get one note or the other (open or lowered) tuned right and run out of adjustment on the other.
I've been studying the underside of the guitar and the changer and understand the relationship between the end plate brass tuners and the nylon tuners. I understand where there needs to be slack built in to prevent raises and lowers from blocking each other.
I've also noticed the stop screws on the the cross rods, which contact the guitar body when a lever or pedal is pressed, to control how far they'll move.
I'm reluctant to try adjusting anything drastic, as alot of this guitar is stilla mystery to me.
Where can I learn the "setup" procedure? In other words, is there a "zero" location for the adjusting screws, endplate tuners and nylone tuners, so you can start clean?
I'm no engineer and hope I don't need to be in order to keep this guitar running. It sounds great when it's adjusted and I hate the thought of selling it just because I can't fix it if it goes out of adjustment.

richard burton · From: Britain

My Marlen pull-release doesn't have nylon adjusters, so any advice I give you will be hypothetical only, don't adjust anything until others have contributed to this thread.

The centre position on my steel, on fingers that raise and lower, is tuned by adjusting the knee lever 'at rest' position, and if two strings are lowered (4 and 8, for example) the 8th string is adjusted via a barrel on the lowering rod, after the 4th string has been tuned with the knee lever 'at rest' position stop.

The 2nd and 9th strings are fairly straightforward, just make sure that the 9th string only starts to move when the 2nd string has dropped a semitone.

On my Marlen, this is adjusted via a barrel on the 9th string lowering rod.

From photos I have seen of Marlen pull-release steels, I have never seen two the same, they all seem to have different mechanisms Shocked

Kevin Hatton · From: Buffalo, N.Y.

Richard, that's what you call custom. Those Marlens are fabulous sounding guitars.

Clyde Mattocks · From: Kinston, North Carolina, USA

Richard, if 2 and 9 are lower only, it sounds like the return springs are not tight enough OR you have something rubbing in the mechanisms pulling them. Using your finger or a tool, pull the puller up against the stop (body) and tune the high note of the string with the machine head. Then push it back against the stop screw and tune the lowest note there. Then work the puller back and forth between these two positions and see if both notes are true. If so, you've got the problem I described. Wish we weren't so far apart, I could identify your problem quickly. First, make sure the springs pull the puller all the way against the body.
_________________
LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Fender Twin Tone Master, Session 400, Harlow Dobro, R.Q.Jones Dobro

Clyde Mattocks · From: Kinston, North Carolina, USA

Also, check to make sure the bellcrank is not loose on the crossrod. That can cause similar problems.
_________________
LeGrande II, Nash. 112, Fender Twin Tone Master, Session 400, Harlow Dobro, R.Q.Jones Dobro

Dave Yustin · From: Vermont, USA

Thanks for the responses. I'll look closely at it again and see if she'll tune up with the advise provided here. I loved the way this guitar played up till the time it broke a string. Then the heartaches began. I'll let you guys know what shakes out.
Thank again
Dave Yustin

Dave Yustin · From: Vermont, USA

Tnanks again for everybody's responses. I also heard from Paul Redmond, they guy who set it up originally and Ricky Davis. They both had good information as well.
On this Marlen, there are nylon tuning nuts on the end of the rods, like regular pedal steels. There are also brass nuts on the top of the endplate, which are stops to determine finger travel. It turns out I caused the problem when I re-strung, as I must've changed gauges or types (nickle to stainless). I'm not sure as I tossed the old strings.
Here's a picture of the underside of my guitar so you'll know what I'm working with. I'll post the instructions I learned in my next post so I can fit most of it on there.

Dave Yustin · From: Vermont, USA

For raise only strings, press pedal/knee, tune to raised note at keyhead. Tune open note w/brass endplate tuner. On lowered only strings tune open note at keyhead and lowered on brass endplate tuner. If you've changed string gauges, make sure that the brass and nylon nuts are adjusted so that the large return spring pulls the nylon nut against the finger when the lever is released. This is what aloows your open note to tune. Also make sure that the string lowers in pitch when you press a lever. If it doesn't, you'll have to back out the brass nut until the finger moves when you press the lever. On strings that raise and lower, press pedal/lever and tune raised note at keyhead. Tune lowered note at brass endplate tuner. Tune open on nylon nut. If there's more than one nylon nut for a string you'll have to determine which one tunes the open note. On my guitar they're as follows: 4th string open at bottom nylon, lever lower at brass nut, C pedal at keyhead. If you need more adjustment for the lower, the top nylon nut is the lever stop and allows some adjustment there. 8th string, lower on brass nut, open at keyhead. Fine tuning changes can be made to the open note at the top nylon tuner, lowered note at bottom nylon tuner. 9th string is lowered note at brass tuner, open at keyhead with fine tuning adjustments for the open note at bottom nylon tuner,lowered note at bottom nylon. AS has been stated before, many of these guitars are different so please don't assume this will work on your guitar. It does work on mine and may provide some help. Be careful, pay attention to which rod moves when you press a pedal or lever and make adjustments slowly to determine what works. I used an electronic tuner when exploring the controls to detect pitch changes more quickly.
There's alot to learn, so don't jump to conclusions when diagnosing a problem. For instance, my 9th string lower wasn't working properly and could have been caused by too little spring tension. But in my case, the brass tuner needed to be backed out to allow the finger to move and the nylon nut needed to be turned in, so it would pull the finger back to the open note under spring tension. The spring was fine, I'd caused the problem by using different strings. Tnanks again to all who helped me out. Hope this helps someone.
Dave Yustin

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