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Topic: my new old MSA!! |
John Groover McDuffie
From:
LA California, USA
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Posted 27 Oct 2010 9:16 pm |
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I just finished converting my s-12 MSA with 5 & 4 back to XE9, having converted it to C6 a while back thinking I would learn that tuning. I only sat at it a couple of times before I decided my practice time would be better spent getting better at the tuning I already play. So I finally got around to converting it back to XE9 over the past couple of days.
I had to shorten the pedal rods about 1/4" to get it to sit right, but that was easier than I thought it would be. I installed one of Tom Bradshaw's conversion kits to give me triple raise on the 5th string. One more thing to fix: I need to work on the two left-moving KLs so they will stay folded up. That's for tomorrow. Drill and tap them for screws. I have done that on my Carter, so it should go smoothly.
Dang, I like that guitar! It sounds really good and I have it playing really well. Drawbacks are it is too heavy and the single coil is a bit noisy and won't accept a humbucking pickup without modifications.
Getting an old instrument in playing condition again is almost as fun as getting a new one. And much less expensive too! |
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John Groover McDuffie
From:
LA California, USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2010 1:26 am
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The pedal bar/rack is what I would call a "brushed aluminun" finish. Anybody got any tips on cleaning it?
How do you wash a DeLorean? Bear in mind that aluminum (pedal bar) is softer than stainless steel (DeLorean). |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2010 2:58 am
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| The weight is part of the sound of the guitar. old msa guitars are so nice. |
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John Groover McDuffie
From:
LA California, USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2010 2:14 pm
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| It's done - no more floppy knee levers! |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2010 8:21 pm My new old MSA
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| You asked about cleaning the pedal bar. I have a S10 MSA I bought used. Just start out with a good scrub brush hot water and detergent. Scrubb running brush strokes from end to end of bar. scrubb the lube and dust off the back around the pedals too. Relube the pedal shafts and the balls the rods hook to. If you try to polish it to much it will start to smooth the bar out. This will devalue the guitar in some peoples view. Be careful when around the decal they are easy to mess up. You want to keep the decal original. Good Luck and Happy Steelin. |
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Darvin Willhoite
From:
Roxton, Tx. USA
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Posted 29 Oct 2010 5:58 pm
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On the brushed aluminum parts, I use Formula 409 and a Scotchbrite scrub pad. It works pretty good. I love those old MSA's, (and the new one's too, of course)
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Darvin Willhoite
MSA Millennium, Legend, and Studio Pro, Reese's restored Universal Direction guitar, a restored MSA Classic SS, several amps, new and old, and a Kemper Powerhead that I am really liking. Also a Zum D10, a Mullen RP, and a restored Rose S10, named the "Blue Bird". Also, I have acquired and restored the plexiglass D10 MSA Classic that was built as a demo in the early '70s. I also have a '74 lacquer P/P, with wood necks, and a showroom condition Sho-Bud Super Pro. |
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Allan Jirik
From:
Wichita Falls TX
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Posted 30 Oct 2010 2:49 pm
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Guys, I really appreciate the tips and descriptions of your MSA refurbs... I've got a '74 S-12 Classic on the workbench, though it's fast turning into a "winter project."
My aluminum parts were extremely grungy so I started sanding them, following directions from other posts. Now I'm wondering whether I should have them polished professionally or do it myself. |
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